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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I did some work on my front suspension, drag link flip, etc... and my sway bar is now about 2+" higher,, or you could say setting at ~10:30 o'clock vs the ~9 o'clock. (parallel to frame) position
I have fully flexed both sides and the bar doesn't rub or interfere with anything.
I was wondering if there is something I don't see this new position causing problems with, or causing added ware to??
I was thinking of putting my stock ones back on, or buying adjustable ones, but would like to here from some of you guys that seem to know your Jeeps pretty good..

thanks

 

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Yea looks a little high to me. I'd look at some different links to bring the bar down personally.
 

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Buy adjustable ones. The front sway is suppose to be at 0 degrees or parallel with the ground.
 

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If it is like the flipped drag link I saw last weekend, you ended up using holes for the bottom of the link that were about 1 1/2-2 inches higher than the original holes. This would be why your original links now have the sway bar to high.
 

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Your link is definitely connected much higher due to your track bar relocation bracket. You'll need to take a few inches out of that link... Fortunately, fixed links are inexpensive and you don't need disco's since you ride a Rubi.

I'd take a look at how close the stock links are, or a set of stock rears might be close too. I'm guessing, but it looks like 3" out would bring it close.

A set of these that you make the length you want would cure all.

Jeep Wrangler JK Adjustable Swaybar Endlink | Wrangler JK RHD
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the replies
I understand why the sway bar rests in a higher position I'm more concerned on what this might cause damage to if anything. I know the ideal resting position is parallel to the frame but I'm interested in what problems the new location might cause. I thought it would be good to know either way.
I have grinder down the knobs on the frame that the sway bar on the driver had inference with.
I will probably re install the stock ones but seem to have lost some of the hardware.
Looking for some overall knowledge I guess of what this might affect.

Thanks
 

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Longer links will ad preload to the sway bar which will impact the handling of your Jeep on turns. The link joints and bushings are probably not designed to hold a constant load so they can wear out prematurely.
 

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After much studying and trying to get official measurements of aftermarket links (btw the JKS are good from 8.75 to 15") I bought a new set of OEM rear takeoffs at flea bay for $20 shipped. I will cut and sleeve these to the correct length for the rear, then take the rears and cut down and sleeve for the fronts.
 

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I guess my concern would be if left connected while doing any type off roading and stuffing a tire while flexing.
As far as just on road driving not a really big deal, IMO....
 

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Your link is definitely connected much higher due to your track bar relocation bracket. You'll need to take a few inches out of that link... Fortunately, fixed links are inexpensive and you don't need disco's since you ride a Rubi.

I'd take a look at how close the stock links are, or a set of stock rears might be close too. I'm guessing, but it looks like 3" out would bring it close.

A set of these that you make the length you want would cure all.

Jeep Wrangler JK Adjustable Swaybar Endlink | Wrangler JK RHD
I have been figuring out what to do with sway bar links. Those JKS say that the require drilling for a Rubi? Any guesses as to why?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
A little more research.. I found this..
acceptable sway bar range 0* (-5* to +5*)

I installed the draglink flip along with the other front end suspension upgrades over xmas break.. I really haven't felt much of a road handling difference since this, if anything maybe a little more solid..
I went off roading,, some pretty rough rock crawling and didn't notice any issues other then needing to grind off some of the knob from the frame on the driver side.. which I had overlooked when I flex things out checking for issues....
I posted the question in a few forums because I was curious about what if anything to be concerned about that I might had over looked....
I guess you can say it's been bugging me even though I saw no major issues with interference... etc.
The added preload spinlock described makes sense....
I think I'll find that missing HW or go buy some new HW and install the OEM ones back in for now... that should get me closer to the so called acceptable angle...

thanks guys... you convenience me to correct it..
:beerdrinking:
 
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