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1990 Jeep Wrangler Sahara YJ
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I bought a 1990 Jeep Wrangler Sahara YJ with 4.2L Inline 6 (2BL) with 172,000 miles for $6k. Car fax is completely clean. No car accidents, structural damage, air bag deployment etc. There is an open recall for “Park Brake Pedal Assembly” which my local dealership stated they can still complete. I am the 9th owner according to Car Fax.

I have not observed any fluid leaks on the concrete where it’s parked. Frame seems structurally sound. All gears works and shift easily.

If I use 91 octane gas is that ok? I’m not worried about the few cents increase in price.

Can I use full synthetic oil and also what weight? I live in SE WI and we have had some what rough winters. Also, safe to say change the oil every 3,000 miles? I never have owned a car of this age.

Is it true that before I turn the key in the ignition I should push the accelerated in 1 time to choke the car? Then start it. After a few minutes push the accelerator again to take the choke off?

Anything I should know?
 

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Welcome to the Forum '90 YJ Wrangler,

Using 91 octane is a waste of money. If you're OK with that, then go ahead and use it.

Some folks find that full synthetic oil is more likely to seep out of the engine and drip than conventional oil. If you use full synthetic and it doesn't leak, then do what makes you happy. If you change your oil every 3000 miles, then full synthetic is another waste of money.
I use conventional dino oil. My motor is worn and has almost 200K miles. I use 20W-50 high mileage oil for my fall oil change and the same thing for my spring oil change. As part of my spring oil change routine, I'll add 6 oz. of Seafoam a few days prior to the oil change. As far as what brand, I buy whatever quality oil that's on sale. We rarely get weather below zero where I live and my Jeep lives in an attached unheated garage. If I lived in Wisconsin, I'd use 10W-50 in the winter. You may want to try 10W-30 if your motor is in better condition than mine.

As far as hitting the accelerator pedal prior to starting a cold carbureted engine, the reason we do that is to allow the carburetor linkage to release the choke butterfly and give a squirt of gas from the accelerator pump to prime the engine. As the engine warms up, we hit the gas pedal again to release the linkage and the choke to open up.
If you go out to your Jeep on a cold morning and remove the air cleaner, then look at the top of the carburetor (assuming the Jeep was parked with a warm engine and you didn't touch the carb linkage as you removed the air cleaner) You'll see the choke butterfly open. Then if you move the carb linkage as if you're stepping on the gas pedal, assuming your choke is adjusted properly, you'll see the butterfly close.

Looking at your pics, I'd guess that the previous owner fixed it up as he drove it and I'd expect to get good service from it as long as the frame isn't rusted. I'd be real surprised if the Carfax reported an air bag deployment.

Good Luck, L.M.
 

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Welcome to the Forum, from Cave Creek AZ.
 

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1990 Jeep Wrangler Sahara YJ
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Welcome to the Forum '90 YJ Wrangler,

Using 91 octane is a waste of money. If you're OK with that, then go ahead and use it.

Some folks find that full synthetic oil is more likely to seep out of the engine and drip than conventional oil. If you use full synthetic and it doesn't leak, then do what makes you happy. If you change your oil every 3000 miles, then full synthetic is another waste of money.
I use conventional dino oil. My motor is worn and has almost 200K miles. I use 20W-50 high mileage oil for my fall oil change and the same thing for my spring oil change. As part of my spring oil change routine, I'll add 6 oz. of Seafoam a few days prior to the oil change. As far as what brand, I buy whatever quality oil that's on sale. We rarely get weather below zero where I live and my Jeep lives in an attached unheated garage. If I lived in Wisconsin, I'd use 10W-50 in the winter. You may want to try 10W-30 if your motor is in better condition than mine.

As far as hitting the accelerator pedal prior to starting a cold carbureted engine, the reason we do that is to allow the carburetor linkage to release the choke butterfly and give a squirt of gas from the accelerator pump to prime the engine. As the engine warms up, we hit the gas pedal again to release the linkage and the choke to open up.
If you go out to your Jeep on a cold morning and remove the air cleaner, then look at the top of the carburetor (assuming the Jeep was parked with a warm engine and you didn't touch the carb linkage as you removed the air cleaner) You'll see the choke butterfly open. Then if you move the carb linkage as if you're stepping on the gas pedal, assuming your choke is adjusted properly, you'll see the butterfly close.

Looking at your pics, I'd guess that the previous owner fixed it up as he drove it and I'd expect to get good service from it as long as the frame isn't rusted. I'd be real surprised if the Carfax reported an air bag deployment.

Good Luck, L.M.
My Jeep came with two keys but I was told by the last owner the Jeep can start without a key which I tried today and that works. I was told the second key locks that from happening. Have you heard of this before and any idea how to stop the car from starting without a key.
 

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'89 YJ 4.2 with MC-2150 Carb & HEI, 2-1/2" Ex. AX-15, NP231 SYE, Adams shafts, F&R ARB, 3
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Replace the ignition cylinder with a new one that's not worn out.
 
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1990 Jeep Wrangler Sahara YJ
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Just ordered (6) quarts of Royal Purple High Milage 10W-30. (6) Champion RFN14LY spark plugs, K&N oil filter, and gallon of Simply Green Heavy Duty degreaser to clean the engine bay. Tomorrow I’m going to go pick up some transmission fluid. Any ideas on that? Spark plug wires too. Possibly a new battery.
 

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1990 Jeep Wrangler Sahara YJ
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·

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