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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
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So I’m very fortunate to have adopted this beauty that’s going to need some time and luv to get her ready for some fun times out on the trails. She’s a 92 with 2.5l, stock manual trans and stock gearing, 33”tires/wheels and 202,000 miles on the odometer (although probably off due to tires vs stock gearing).
As of right now, these are the known problems that need to be addressed:
1. Reportedly Overheats and this is evident as there’s what looks to be white colored coolant that’s sprayed from the reservoir and back down the underside of the drivers side frame. This tells me that the previous person attempted to use a stop leak solution which didn’t work and it still over heated and blew out the reservoir. Even worst, also tells me they continued driving although it had over heated 😟.
2. When started, one of the 3 rubber fuel lines coming from the fuel tank is leaking gas rapidly. Seems like a simple fix of replacing all 3 lines with good high pressure fuel line.
3. The previous owner stole the hardtop and doors (long story that’s not worth typing out). Going to need to find a good vinyl/cloth replacement.
4. Has these big ol wheels/tires with the 2.5, standard trans and gearing.
The good thing is it starts and runs smooth (only for brief periods because I don’t want to do further damage). I’ve been researching changing it to a v6 or v8, but honestly want to stay with the lil ol 2.5 as we’re only going to use for off-road trails and no highway or high speed stuff. The clutch and trans seems to be fine with no noticeable slipping or grinding.
So my plan is to
1. start with pulling the head and sending it to the machine shop for their magic. Anyone know of a good shop in the Cincinnati area?
2. Obviously replace head gasket. Suggested brand that fits good and better than OEM?
3. Install new water pump and thermostats. Think I’m going to go with Duralast from Autozone as well as water pump lubricant.
4. Replace water pump hoses. Will order on Amazon
5. Replace stock fan for electric setup. Anyone know of a good kit that includes wiring, switches and temp probes?
6. Replace all fluids
7. Replace rubber fuel lines coming from fuel tank. Does the tank have to be removed to replace the 3 hoses?

Thoughts and advice please. This is my first Wrangler but I’ve owned a Grand Wagoner (I actually changed the motor by myself in that), and a Liberty, so tons to learn.
 

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Since you think the PO used stop leak, I'd consider a cooling system flush and replacing the radiator.

You state that you want to pull the head to send to a machine shop. I assume you've done a compression check and found a weak cylinder? Is the oil milky?

Good Luck, L.M.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Thanks Luckymac.
Honestly haven’t checked the condition of the oil yet but will this weekend once I tow it to my garage. The reason I was just planning to go on and pull the head is because it’s still over heating and the fact that he had 4-5 jugs of coolant bottles full of water in the back, tells me he continued driving it knowing about the problems which almost certainly has damaged the head. Also the fact that it’s got over 200k miles on it, I’m hoping and praying that I’ll be lucky enough to only have to have the head done and not a full rebuild. And you’re correct in that a compression test is needed of which I will def do that before I remove anything on it. I will also be checking the radiator closely and may even replace just because depending on how it looks.
 

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I wouldn’t immediately jump to taking the head off without evidence. Check the oil, compression test it, smell the exhaust, listen to it etc. I’ve seen temps approaching 300° on I4 and I6 engines without serious problems. You don’t want to do that but sometimes it happens. You’re going to want to replace the water pump, thermostat and radiator. Don’t forget the heater core since that’s probably full of stop leak too. Start with the cheaper fixes, and then make an assessment from there.
 

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Regarding your fuel tank, dropping the tank is the easiest way to replace the sender and hoses. Your Jeep looks clean so the straps should come apart ok. Some guys cut a hole in the floor of the tub. Don’t do that.
 

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I have been in the mountains and mine has been in the red and boiled out of the overflow bottle twice.

I have since found and fixed the issue (new fan clutch was also as bad as the old) and have no issues of a warped head.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I wouldn’t immediately jump to taking the head off without evidence. Check the oil, compression test it, smell the exhaust, listen to it etc. I’ve seen temps approaching 300° on I4 and I6 engines without serious problems. You don’t want to do that but sometimes it happens. You’re going to want to replace the water pump, thermostat and radiator. Don’t forget the heater core since that’s probably full of stop leak too. Start with the cheaper fixes, and then make an assessment from there.
Good points. I’ll start there like a couple of you have suggested.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Regarding your fuel tank, dropping the tank is the easiest way to replace the sender and hoses. Your Jeep looks clean so the straps should come apart ok. Some guys cut a hole in the floor of the tub. Don’t do that.
Ok thanks. I’ll just drop the tank and replace the hoses and the fuel filter while back there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I have been in the mountains and mine has been in the red and boiled out of the overflow blottle twice.

I have since found and fixed the issue (new fan clutch was also as bad as the old) and have no issues of a warped head.
Good to know!
 

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2.5l, stock manual trans and stock gearing, 33”tires/wheels...
...
4. Has these big ol wheels/tires with the 2.5, standard trans and gearing.
Thoughts and advice please...
You can "get by" with this set up... But, research regearing or reducing tire size.. lots of opinions and "some" facts on 2.5L gearing.

John D
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
You can "get by" with this set up... But, research regearing or reducing tire size.. lots of opinions and "some" facts on 2.5L gearing.

John D
That's what I figured, but it seems like it could be stressing the lil 2.5L and gearing system. Guess my question is do the "facts" support or hint against going this big for the stock powertrain?
 

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OP, I don’t know nearly as much as the guys you’re already hearing from; I just like to stop in and learn.
Also wanted to say, that’s a good looking YJ, you’ll love it when you get it going.
As far as tops go, most will tell you Bestop.
I have a third vehicle, so mine is either hardtop/doors or naked!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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The supply fuel line coming off the tank is a proprietary piece of line you cant buy off a shelf. For some stupid reason Jeep used a 3/8" line coming off the ending unit that necks down to 5/16" on the end. From there it goes into a 5/16" metal fuel line that runs down the frame and around the rear shock mount. From there it runs into a proprietary elbow that is 5/16" then goes back up in size to 3/8" again before it enters the fuel filter. And if i remember right when it comes out of the fuel filter it's 5/16" again.

Yeah it's really stupid and you cant buy a feed line cut to length because it WILL leak.

The return line is just standard 5/16" off the shelf stuff you can buy at any auto parts store. It's not under any pressure since it's a return line so you could run cheap low pressure calibrator line on it.

The third line is a vent and you can buy it off the shelf as well. I think it is 3/16 inside diameter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
OP, I don’t know nearly as much as the guys you’re already hearing from; I just like to stop in and learn.
Also wanted to say, that’s a good looking YJ, you’ll love it when you get it going.
As far as tops go, most will tell you Bestop.
I have a third vehicle, so mine is either hardtop/doors or naked!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks! This one will be strictly for play days, so it’ll probably live naked 99.99% of its life with me, but I do want a top just in case. I’ll def check out the Bestop you mention. Btw, do you know if I have to have doors for it to work?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
The supply fuel line coming off the tank is a proprietary piece of line you cant buy off a shelf. For some stupid reason Jeep used a 3/8" line coming off the ending unit that necks down to 5/16" on the end. From there it goes into a 5/16" metal fuel line that runs down the frame and around the rear shock mount. From there it runs into a proprietary elbow that is 5/16" then goes back up in size to 3/8" again before it enters the fuel filter. And if i remember right when it comes out of the fuel filter it's 5/16" again.

Yeah it's really stupid and you cant buy a feed line cut to length because it WILL leak.

The return line is just standard 5/16" off the shelf stuff you can buy at any auto parts store. It's not under any pressure since it's a return line so you could run cheap low pressure calibrator line on it.

The third line is a vent and you can buy it off the shelf as well. I think it is 3/16 inside diameter.
Oh wow! Thanks so much for the details.
So if the line is 3/8” coming out the tank and 3/8” going into the fuel filter, is it possible to just use high pressure 3/8” from the tank to the filter?
 

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Thanks! This one will be strictly for play days, so it’ll probably live naked 99.99% of its life with me, but I do want a top just in case. I’ll def check out the Bestop you mention. Btw, do you know if I have to have doors for it to work?
Absolutely not!
If it’s just going to be a weekend toy, you may want to consider something like this:

They are a site sponsor and are great to deal with.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
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That's what I figured, but it seems like it could be stressing the lil 2.5L and gearing system. Guess my question is do the "facts" support or hint against going this big for the stock powertrain?
Here is a good reference for where you are on the tire/gear spectrum. Depending on how you use the Jeep you can decide gear tire size options.
Gear Ratio Guide for Larger Tires | Quadratec
 

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Oh wow! Thanks so much for the details.
So if the line is 3/8” coming out the tank and 3/8” going into the fuel filter, is it possible to just use high pressure 3/8” from the tank to the filter?

You can but you have to get it around the shock. I bent a new piece of 3/8" stainless fuel line so i can use off the shelf fuel injection hose. It was a total pain in the ass to get right but i don't have to fight with it anymore.

4513301
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Absolutely not!
If it’s just going to be a weekend toy, you may want to consider something like this:

They are a site sponsor and are great to deal with.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
That’s perfect! Thanks so much!
 
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