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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone,

I recently bought a used 13 JK, I am pleased with it so far as the ride is very comfy and I enjoy having a lifted Jeep. I am slightly worried that these mods that came with it might not last or will wear certain critical parts down. I have taken pictures of what I believe are relevant areas, but I am especially concerned with the driveline as I don't want to go through a driveshaft. I am using it for a daily driver and will be going on dirt roads maybe 10% of the year so very mild use in that regard. I am also probably going to get new tires for it before winter gets here.

Gear ratio 3.21
6 spd

255/75/17 (build sheet said it came with 16" steel wheels)

Lift OME (if I had to guess 3" but I'm hoping someone more knowledgeable can help on that)

Thanks


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It's probably a 2.5" lift. I'm not seeing aftermarket control arms or geometry brackets. If it is over 2.5, it would most likely be flighty driving.

At 2.5" lift, you are OK with the stock driveshafts. Any more and you should be doing something to the front DS. Watch the boots, make sure they are intact.

Sports did come with 16" wheels, so if you have Jeep 17's, they were a takeoff from probably a Rubicon.

The dual steering stabilizer is a Procomp ( not a high end product) and probably not needed. It's a bling factor. A properly set up and maintained JK doesn't even need the stock stabilizer. I wonder if it's there to mask Death Wobble?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
It's probably a 2.5" lift. I'm not seeing aftermarket control arms or geometry brackets. If it is over 2.5, it would most likely be flighty driving.

Sports did come with 16" wheels, so if you have Jeep 17's, they were a takeoff from probably a Rubicon.

The dual steering stabilizer is a Procomp ( not a high end product) and probably not needed. It's a bling factor. A properly set up and maintained JK doesn't even need the stock stabilizer. I wonder if it's there to mask Death Wobble?
It did have DW quite severely before that was put on before I bought it, so it's more of a band-aid and the steering needs to be checked out?

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OK, that unfortunately makes perfect sense.

Yes, the steering needs to be checked out. You probably have one or more worn components.

Do a dry steer test and watch for movement of the drag link, tie rod and track bar. Very slight movement is ok, (like just the natural deflection of the bushings) movement over an 1/8" is suspect. Also check your ball joints. Jack up the axle and place a pry bar under the tire. There should be little to no up and down movement. Anything over a 1/4" is too much and you will need new ball joints. The stock ball joints wear out quickly so I'll bet you need new ball joints.

I just went thru this. I needed track bar bushings, had an ovaled out track bar mounting hole and bad ball joints. My steering stabilizer was also bad but that was due to trail damage. It was replaced prior to my ball joints (They were on order, just had not arrived). The stabilizer did wonders to minimize but not eliminate DW. Finishing the job with the new ball joints completed the elimination of DW.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
OK, that unfortunately makes perfect sense.

Yes, the steering needs to be checked out. You probably have one or more worn components.

Do a dry steer test and watch for movement of the drag link, tie rod and track bar. Very slight movement is ok, (like just the natural deflection of the bushings) movement over an 1/8" is suspect. Also check your ball joints. Jack up the axle and place a pry bar under the tire. There should be little to no up and down movement. Anything over a 1/4" is too much and you will need new ball joints. The stock ball joints wear out quickly so I'll bet you need new ball joints.

I just went thru this. I needed track bar bushings, had an ovaled out track bar mounting hole and bad ball joints. My steering stabilizer was also bad but that was due to trail damage. It was replaced prior to my ball joints (They were on order, just had not arrived). The stabilizer did wonders to minimize but not eliminate DW. Finishing the job with the new ball joints completed the elimination of DW.
Thank you for the advice, I'll get it checked out asap.

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Grooving With A Pict
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Adjustable front lower control arms and adjustable rear upper control arms would be on my list for sure. Your rear axle looks rotated and moved forward more than I would want. Also, measure your front and rear axles to see how much they are offset from being centered left to right. I don't see an adjustable front or rear track bar, or a relocation bracket for the rear track bar. Likely viewed from head on you'll see that your front axle has shifted and your rear axle has shifted opposite of each other, side-to-side. The front axle shifts to the passenger side and the rear axle shifts to the driver's side when you install a spring lift.

Edit: It does look like someone added a rear track bar relocation bracket but I would still check axle offset from dead center and look into adjustable control arms or geometry correction brackets.
 

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As far as the wheels and tires that are on there, they are stock Sport S units. Since it came out of the factory with base Sport 16s, and with that lift, I'd wager that the previous owner was running bigger tires and swapped them out for craigslist take offs before trading/selling.
 

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Welcome to the forum! Love the 6 speed. I've got a 2013 that I haven't put in my signature line with a 6 speed and LOVE IT!


Since one of your worries was increased wear, you're going to have to do something about that lift. RhinoSportJKU pretty much hit in on the head. I don't know what "kit" is on there, but you either have to take the springs out and change the shocks back to stock (they look like the only things that were done to lift it), or complete the lift with adjustable control arms, track bars, etc. Just looking at the side view, the rear axle is way too far forward. This is because the stock links are still in there, and when you put in the taller springs the links rotate down. Since they're the stock length, and not adjustable, they swing forward as they go down. This is probably the same case with the front axle, but it's too far back (can't tell from the photo). If you're going to finish the lift, call TeraFlex for the links. They have several variations of adjustable links for different lift heights. You definitely don't want to get the longest, but probably not the shortest either. They are adjustable, but only over a given range, so you need to get the correct ones.



Once that's done, it should fix that rear driveline angle. Right now it's too steep, and would probably bind up if you drooped out the rear axle. After the axle is pushed back with the correct length links, the angle of the rear driveline will be better. It may not however be enough. You said you only do dirt trails 10% of the time if that, so you're probably not going to ever droop it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Welcome to the forum! Love the 6 speed. I've got a 2013 that I haven't put in my signature line with a 6 speed and LOVE IT!


Since one of your worries was increased wear, you're going to have to do something about that lift. RhinoSportJKU pretty much hit in on the head. I don't know what "kit" is on there, but you either have to take the springs out and change the shocks back to stock (they look like the only things that were done to lift it), or complete the lift with adjustable control arms, track bars, etc. Just looking at the side view, the rear axle is way too far forward. This is because the stock links are still in there, and when you put in the taller springs the links rotate down. Since they're the stock length, and not adjustable, they swing forward as they go down. This is probably the same case with the front axle, but it's too far back (can't tell from the photo). If you're going to finish the lift, call TeraFlex for the links. They have several variations of adjustable links for different lift heights. You definitely don't want to get the longest, but probably not the shortest either. They are adjustable, but only over a given range, so you need to get the correct ones.



Once that's done, it should fix that rear driveline angle. Right now it's too steep, and would probably bind up if you drooped out the rear axle. After the axle is pushed back with the correct length links, the angle of the rear driveline will be better. It may not however be enough. You said you only do dirt trails 10% of the time if that, so you're probably not going to ever droop it.
Thanks for the advice! This may sound sacrilegious but I wonder if it would be easier and cheaper to go pack to stock height if it's just the shocks and springs. It's an old man emu 2.5" kit a near as we can tell.
 

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Thanks for the advice! This may sound sacrilegious but I wonder if it would be easier and cheaper to go pack to stock height if it's just the shocks and springs. It's an old man emu 2.5" kit a near as we can tell.
Hit up Craigslist or a local Jeep club. Someone has a stock Rubicon suspension in a box somewhere for cheap. If that's the direction you're going.

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the yellow shocks are Old Man Emu units. You can see the logo on the bottom. Nice high end shocks. Adjustable arms would be in my immediate future. Those axles are not sitting in the correct places. Rear too far forward and with the shortened wheelbase would certainly contribute to a flighty ride.
 

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I would take it to an alignment shop and see what the caster is. Make sure toe is right (that is the only adjustable aspect stock) and see what caster is. You should be near 5 degrees caster. Too little caster will make the steering nervous. Too much caster is rare but can make it steer slow.
If you don't have enough caster you can get either geometry correction brackets or longer / adjustable front lower control arms to correct.
 
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