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Discussion Starter #1
So out wheeling today and misjudged a mud hole and almost got stuck. I slid into some ruts. Question is how do I know if I need to change diff fluid and what do I need to check. Wheeled for a couple more hours after and drove about 60 miles home and nothing felt unusual or out of place. Btw it's a stock 12 jk sport with stock 16s
 

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Front diff breather is behind your engine up top, TC too. You're fine unless you were completely buried.
Rear diff is in the pass rear wheel wheel by the frame. Crappy location.
IMO If you haven't changed your rear fluid then you may as well do it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Waterline was close to fenders but no water came in the jeep. I had it naked. Not sure how bad it was out back so will I be ok waiting to pay day to get it changed or do I need to park it till then? Its a DD and I have only had it about a month so making sure I don't tear anything up. Lesson learned always check depth of mud hole.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Cool thanks for the help I may leave it parked and see if I can get some new gears and just have everything done at once.
 

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More likely than not, there's no water and you're fine....

To make sure: drive the Jeep around the block, take off the fill plug on the diff, reach in with your pinky curled down a bit and scoop up some oil. If it looks like oil.. i.e. not cloudy at all, you're fine. The correct level should be right there at the plug, so you should not have to reach in hardly at all.

If its milky at all, you need to change it..... Changing the differential fluid and relocating the vent tube to a higher location are both cheap and easy things to do. Make sure you use the correct oil specially if you have limited slip.
 

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Probably don't need new gears. At worst just the oil, at best you're ok. But check it as pkai said.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Only reason I said gears is I have the 3.21s and thinking about going 3.73s for when it gets a lift and bigger tires down the road.
 

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Don't waste time or money going from 3.21 to 3.73, not worth it. Kind of like paying for your wife to have plastic surgery and going from an A to a B.
 

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I agree with Steve. I have 3.73 gears on 33's and while tolerable it's not exactly the best. I plan on going to 4.88 gears when i put 35's on. I would suggest at least going to 4.10. You can run 33's on them perfectly and still be able to run 35's if you decide to upgrade later down the road. Trust me, you'll always want to go bigger down the road. What tire size do you have now or what size are you wanting to go to?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I have the little 28 or 29s that come stock. I'm debating on 32s or 33s with a bb for now. It's my dd and I still have plenty of payments left.
 

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do tires and lift first, then you will have a better idea on what gears to go to. all together you are looking at about $5000K....have fun.
 

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Have a 2007 Sahara and just found a 2013 hard top. I know there are plenty of wiring harness kits and the more favored seems to be the one from Mopar. But, all the reviews I see are real negative about the installation instructions. Anyone seen a decent video on doing that job?
 

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I recently bought a new to me 2007 and was wondering the same thing. I'll be watching your thread for a response on this! I'm also looking at 33's, but doing a 2.5 lift. And I have the 3.23 gears.
 

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I would recommend gearing to 4.10 if you're going for 33's or 32's. If upgrading to 35's is a possibility later do 4.56.
 

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gear oil will hold A LOT of water before really breaking down. You know its got a lot of water in it when it looks like chocolate milk. Front diff is more susceptible than rear. I have had my front look like chocolate milk and the rear was clean.

You can pull the drain plug, drain the gear oil and refill for under $20 for inexpensive gear oil. You need 4 quarts.

If you have zero tools you will probably spend about another $30 in tools:
drain pan
suction gun(Oil Suction Gun - Save on this Suction Gun at Harbor Freight)
3/8 drive ratchet or breaker bar

Thats literally all you need.
 

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I would recommend gearing to 4.10 if you're going for 33's or 32's. If upgrading to 35's is a possibility later do 4.56.
I'm hesitant to re-gear this jeep. I am thinking about just keeping for a couple years then getting a JKU rubi. With that in mind can I get away with 33's and 3:21 gearing?
 

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I'm hesitant to re-gear this jeep. I am thinking about just keeping for a couple years then getting a JKU rubi. With that in mind can I get away with 33's and 3:21 gearing?
if only keeping a few years I would not regear. I have 3.21 and 33" and while not optimal, it does work. Used a flashpac to chg tire size and run 93 tune. It does give back some of the power feel of downshifting on hills and in strong headwind. Did drop about 3 mpg with the lift, and bigger tires though.
 

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I'm hesitant to re-gear this jeep. I am thinking about just keeping for a couple years then getting a JKU rubi. With that in mind can I get away with 33's and 3:21 gearing?
Considering that the stock tire height for the Sport S and Sahara are 32" and they come stock with 3.21 gearing I would say yes, but you are at the upper end of the range. Your problem is that to get to that height on a 16" wheel, you are going to have to go much wider and that may be the problem.

The 265/75R16s are 10.4" wide and are only a little wider than the stock Sport S and Sahara tires (10.1") and only a little shorter at 31.6" vs 32.1 on the Sport S and Sahara stock tires.

If you are interested in the Goodyear Duratracs, go on the Goodyear website, find tires by size and enter in the size you have and then select the Duratracs from the listing. Then look for the link saying "See all tire results" right above the speed rating and it will list all the sizes available. Click on a size and it will give you all the specs for that tire, the width in inches, the height, the revolutions per mile, etc.

Here is a link if it will work:
https://www.goodyear.com/en-US/tires/wrangler-duratrac
 
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