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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So over the course of the last few weeks I have cleaned up the
vacuum lines (only keeping whats needed), performed the nutter,
retimed the engine, fixed all my dash gauges, removed carb (carter bbd) cleaned /reinstalled, and now I am running worse than ever. I do not understand at all. Even more comical I reinstalled the carb and forgot to tighten the fuel supply line all the way. Jumped in the Jeep, cranked her over and she purred like a kitten. Sounded like a Honda Civic, so I jumped out to do a once over to ensure everything looked good and found the light fuel spray and I forgot to put my vacuum line from Dist to Pass side of carb. So I figure WTH I'll tighten this fuel line back up, throw the vacuum line back on she will run like a champ. NOPE! It ran worse and now not at all. Somehow, someway I lost all fuel pressure. Would not start at all. Then once I regained fuel PSI to the carb it just wont start. The Battery died before I could get it started again. Last week I had it idling steady at 1200 RPM's and was working on getting it in the ideal 650 range and now this. Does anyone have any advice or should I just rip thei Carter POS off and buy a new carb. All help is greatly appreciated. Thank you

david
 

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Ok so take off the distributor vac line and crank her see if she purrs again

If so your timing is the issue you will need to plug the vacuum port on the dist. As you adjust it till you get a good purr then re-adjust the idle mixture screws once you tighten the dist.

Let us know
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Are both screws on the Carter BBD for air or both? If so which is which? I've read so many posts on the Carter BBD that states both screws are for air control....please advise?

thank you
David
 

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I have never worked on a carter before but all I hear is how junky they are. Especially when you remove all of it's original parts that work with it. Like all those vacuum lines and purge valves and so on and I don't think that a carter carb will work right with the nutter bypass because that carb is setup to work with a ECM controlled jeep engine. My advice is start over with everything you did and if you can afford it get a new carb. Mc2100 and Mc2150 are the easiest to work on but there are other carbs that work really good with the 4.2. Start over with the distributor timing. Get the number 1 cylinder to TDC and you can do that with removing all the spark plugs except for number 1 and crank on the engine with a socket wrench on the front pulley bolt and wait to hear the engine make a compression noise and it gets very hard to turn. And when you do hear the compression noise then take out the spark plug and stick a screw driver in there and watch it move up and when it stops moving up then you are at TDC. But the distributor rotor button on number 1 firing post. That will ensure you are timed. And follow the other instructions that 89Saharagreen said.

Check for any vacuum leaks. Maybe get some new vacuum hoses. If any have cracks in them when you bend them then you should replace them. You could have many little tiny leaks. Also you could have a intake manifold vacuum leak or since you took of the carb then a vacuum leak at the carb itself where it bolts to the manifold. That's very common. The smallest stuff can make a big difference in the jeeps performance. The high idle is a huge indication in a big vacuum leak. If you can't get it to idle low then i'd be very certain that it's a vacuum leak somewhere.

But again a new carb I highly recommend. Hope this helps. I have a 1990 4.2 and I had so many little issues with it until I did away with every little emissions part on the jeep and got me a MC2100 carb and intake manifold. Never any problems and I always keep and eye on my new vacuum lines for any cracks and spray starting fluid on the manifold and around the carb to see if any vacuum leaks are happening. This engine is easily know for vacuum leaks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
"But the distributor rotor button on number 1 firing post." I'm not sure I understand this? Can you please explain. thank you for all your input I am doing this when I get home! thank you

david
 

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Sorry. Put the distributor rotor button on number 1 firing post.
 

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since it was running before,if you have not moved the distributor then all that screwdriver down the plug hole shouldn't be necessary,because your timing should be pretty close to right.If you are not sure what you are doing,that is a good way to ruin an engine.sahara is on the right track..both the screws are idle mixture screws.turn them both all the way in but not hard.just barely bottom them out.then turn each one out 1 1/2 turns.I am not sure what that carter calls for but on most carbs that is a good place to start
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
no clue

yeah I have only rotated the dist. advance and retard while it was running to set it at the strongest idle, but I have never pulled it out so I dont think its a direct timing issue. I should be close. I know its something with the carb just cannot figure it out. thank you
 

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many times when trying to crank one cold,if the choke is not closing then the engine will not pull enough gas through the carb for it to bust off.at the same time,once it does bust off,if the choke continues to stay completely close then it will choke it down.when I am tinkering with a carb,I like to have the breather off so I can see what the choke is doing.also if you advance it to the highest rpm running then it might be advanced a little to much for it to start when you recrank it..just things for you to experiment with
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I live in AZ and I dont even need the choke (at least that is what I thought). Its just weird, sometimes I have to manually open the choke so it will get air to start and sometimes I dont. I cannot stand this stupid choke on this carb. Thanks for the info
 

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yeah,I am in south Georgia and even with the temp in the 90's mine crank cold better if choked because it lets the engine pull the gas in ,to crank it.I have an 88 model right now that I bought recently.I really didn't have the time to screw around with it to get the automatic choke working right now so I just grabbed a $10 manual choke at o'reillys and threw it on there until I have time..
 

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Ok not sure if we got you all fixed or not at this point.

Give us some more info when you get a chance.

Lots of good info given you may need to back out the idle mix screws more than 1.5 turns so do not freak if 1.5 does not make it purr also a warm engine is what you should be working with not cold.

Lastly be very careful spraying starter fluid around your intake manifold the exhaust manifold is right there starter fluid will ignite!

It is an easy way to potentially find a vac leak just be careful and do it outside not in the garage!

Let us know
 

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once you get it idling pretty good..if you have a vacuum gauge you can use it to final tune your idle mixture screws.move them both either in or out the same amount and adjust it for the highest vacuum you can get
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
alright so came home, checked all vacuum lines, took idle screws all the way in and back out 1.25 turns, and backed off my advance timing a little as per Dragon and it started immediately and idled at about 1000 RPMS pretty good then just started bellowing out smoke (failed to mention I added seafoam the other day cause I thought I might have had a clog in my fuel lines and perhaps too much. It just kept pouring out smoke and seemed like it was backed up or something. Thoughts? Perhaps something going on with the catalytic converter or exhaust or is that just too much seafoam going on? Thank you everyone.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
or did I somehow blow a piston ring or something and just not know it? super confused. Should I run it and keep giving it fuel until it stops? What should I do? Thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
alright so I ran through the seafoam and the smoke and now acting like it wants to start but does not. I mean I started that thing up and burnt through so much smoke reving it up to 3000 rpms and I found an exhaust leak coming from where my end of my header meets the exhaust and then all of a sudden its not getting any fuel. Weird. I went and opened up the choke and watched the nozzles in there and when I give it throttle nothing is coming out? Perhaps I have old gas from it sitting for a few years but I have put nothing but clean fuel in it. Perhaps some debri trying to burn off. Anyways I have just over the red on Empty so I am going to get a 5 gallon jug of premium and not try to do anything until then, Thoughts? Why would it run with the seafoam in it so good and then just stop? Is it perhaps because my fuel level is so low?
 

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From what Ive learned with mine you need to have the ECM connected for it to run right in the stock setup. Before we tore down the engine we rebuilt it to a stock system from a mc2100/nutter bypass and had to connect everything including the ecm to make it run right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
So your telling me to perform a reverse nutter? I'm speechless. My latest update is while I am cranking and attempting to start when I get out after about 25 cranks the entire Carb is covered in visibile fuel top to bottom. It'll start run bogged down for about 5 seconds and struggle and then done. over and over. Let the games begin. It looks like its coming out of the driver side lower control arm by the large spring. Very odd. Any takers on this one?

Thanks
David
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
no clue

So your telling me to perform a reverse nutter? I'm speechless. My latest update is while I am cranking and attempting to start when I get out after about 25 cranks the entire Carb is covered in visibile fuel top to bottom. It'll start run bogged down for about 5 seconds and struggle and then done. over and over. Let the games begin. It looks like its coming out of the driver side lower control arm by the large spring. Very odd. Any takers on this one? :banghead: :surrender:

Thanks
David
 
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