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Discussion Starter #1
When I shopped for bigger tires most mod shops pushed for a lift. Types of lifts varried. Many said over 33 inches you have to lift. I say non sense.

In fact I like the stability better without a lift for daily driving. If you daily drive your JK 99.99 % of the time on roads it just made more sense to me not to lift.

For off roading yes you need a lift, but I also do not believe in budget lifts. It makes the Jeep less stable with a suspension being stretched and not aligned for the road. Unless you spend the money and do it right you will wear out suspension parts and cause annomallies. It is you life and passengers lives on the line.

So what can you get in tires without a lift?

I went with 34x12 or 305/70r17 with a 17x9 rim with 4.5 backspacing and -12 offset. Also 1.75 inch wheel spacers that are name brand Spydertrax and hubcentric. Flat fenders and you can cut the stock front bumper.

It is sooooo stable with a wide stance and no lift. My JK Wrangler drives better than stock 29 inch tires.
 

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You are absolutely 100% correct fireball. Here's mine, 35s, no lift.



I've owned a few other JK's before, including a 2010 w/ a 3" lift with ICON shocks and 35s; a 2011 JKUR w/ 2 1/2" Teraflex lift, flat fenders and 37s; a 2013 JKUR w/ 3 1/2" AEV lift and 35s; and a 2014 JK w/ 3" lift, Fox shocks and 37s.

I now own a 2017 JKRR with no lift, Mopar Hightop fender flares, and 35s. The JK with NO lift drives and handles so much better than any of the others that there is no comparison. The combination of the extra width from 315 width tires and 1 1/2" Spidertrax wheel spacers, with no lift, makes handling so much better. That especially is the case off road in off camber situations, or near vertical climbs.

The only caveat is, four door JK's do need about two inches more lift, or two inches more tire size to be equal offroad to a two door JK, when it comes to breakover angle.
 

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On the street, so long as you don't seriously rub anything important, run what fits. The problem Offroad with chop lifts (aka zero lift, chop to fit the tires) is the amount of bumpstop you need to run effectively can give you about zero flex since you bumpstop most of it away.

I am not a fan of wheel spacers at all. I am a huge fan of LCOG - I run 37s on a 2.5 lift with flat Fenders.
 

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A leveling kit might give you a scotch more clearance especially up front - if you need it and/or dislike the raked look of stock.

Pete
 

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I have a TF leveling kit and 1.5" spacers will 35" K02 fit on the stock 18"
 

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As far as handling stability..... Any 5 year old that has been to a Nascar race AND a Monster Truck show can answer this question.
LCOG for the Win.

There are lifted Jeeps that live off-road and then there are the majority of jeeps that live on-pavement and are lifted because it looks cool.
No sin.
 

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On the street, so long as you don't seriously rub anything important, run what fits. The problem Offroad with chop lifts (aka zero lift, chop to fit the tires) is the amount of bumpstop you need to run effectively can give you about zero flex since you bumpstop most of it away.

I am not a fan of wheel spacers at all. I am a huge fan of LCOG - I run 37s on a 2.5 lift with flat Fenders.
I don't think any of us were talking about extending bumpstops to run bigger tires, at least I wasn't. I agree, extending bumpstops would be kind of dumb. Just change the fender flares and you can run 35s with no lift. No bumpstop changes needed.
 

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I don't think any of us were talking about extending bumpstops to run bigger tires, at least I wasn't. I agree, extending bumpstops would be kind of dumb. Just change the fender flares and you can run 35s with no lift. No bumpstop changes needed.
Apologies, you are correct. With factory suspension and factory shocks. Dont know what I was thinking.
 

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I don't think any of us were talking about extending bumpstops to run bigger tires, at least I wasn't. I agree, extending bumpstops would be kind of dumb. Just change the fender flares and you can run 35s with no lift. No bumpstop changes needed.
Do you have this setup ? have you tucked your tires to the max on full compression to verify clearance ?
I'm running a 2" lift, and with my 35's (33.5" in reality), and 2 bumpstops, i'm so close to the edge of the flares, i couldn't understand how you could run a factory suspension with 35's and rub nothing offroading ???

Check my pics here,i have more caster than stock up front because i'm running adjustable arms so my lower arms are longer, i figure the tire will be even closer to the flare bracket if i was running stock caster, so that bracket will need to go, and maybe you could fit 35's in there, i don't see how you could fix the back without shaving the fender edge.

You can run 35's on factory lift and flat fenders, but i'd think you actually need to extend the bumpstops, and thus cut your suspension up travel

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f202/2-lift-315-70r17-bw-flat-fenders-1958769.html
 

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Are those pictures of your Jeep flexing with 2" bumpstop extensions on? That's crazy if it is, because that means without 2" bumpstop extensions your tires would be that close to rubbing with 31" tires (2" less radius than 35" tires). And these Jeeps come with 32s from the factory. Something doesn't add up.

Yes, I'm running 35s with no lift and stock suspension, including stock bump stops, like in the picture I posted above. The Mopar High Top fender flares have plenty of clearance, and the tires never come close to rubbing them. But at full suspension compression the rear tire will very lightly scuff the inner fender liner at the front of the rear fender. Not really a rub, just a light scuff. The fender liner is about 3/4" away from the sheetmetal behind it in that area, so I could use a small sheet metal screw to tack it up tighter against the body. But it doesn't really matter, because it rubs so infrequently, and doesn't do any harm when it does rub. My last whole day four wheeling caused the tire to scuff that plastic twice, and those were on pretty hard g-outs that compressed the bumpstop hard.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
On the street, so long as you don't seriously rub anything important, run what fits. The problem Offroad with chop lifts (aka zero lift, chop to fit the tires) is the amount of bumpstop you need to run effectively can give you about zero flex since you bumpstop most of it away.

I am not a fan of wheel spacers at all. I am a huge fan of LCOG - I run 37s on a 2.5 lift with flat Fenders.
I read that in some forums about wheel spacers. That is old crappy spacers that were like washers. Many maintenance shops would not touch spacers because of those types, but now their policies are changing as long as you have good ones.

If you don't buy cheap ones and buy name brand Hubcentric it will be fine. They also need to be torqued down right and then checked at 3000 miles, but my shop used red Locktite.

I can't imagine not buying good name brands when they are $200 for 4 like Spidertrac.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I read that in some forums about wheel spacers. That is old crappy spacers that were like washers. Many maintenance shops would not touch spacers because of those types, but now their policies are changing as long as you have good ones.

If you don't buy cheap ones and buy name brand Hubcentric it will be fine. They also need to be torqued down right and then checked at 3000 miles, but my shop used red Locktite.

I can't imagine not buying good name brands when they are $200 for 4 like Spidertrac.
Wider is just as important on the road as higher. Even my stock JKu with highway 29 inch tires felt like it would tip over in turns. Not with my current setup 34x12 with 1.75" wheel spacers and no lift.

It drives like a dream. Sooo stable. Lots of grip. Nitto AT Graps G2.
 

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I too have 305s on 10" wide wheels with 4.5" backspacing, no lift, and the tires stick out beyond the fenders about 1.5". I don't go off road, but the problem I used to have was rear tires rubbing the fender if I hit a big bump with lots of weight in back. Since that is a rare occurrence for me, limited to too many friends in the back seat or towing my motorcycles, the best fix for me was to stick the Air Lift 1000 bags in the rear springs.
$82 and lifetime warranty...no more rubbing when heavily loaded, depressurize when normal commuting.
 
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