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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello everyone,

I have posted a couple of threads in the tech forum, one pertaining to the infamous CAD that Defcon 1, DREDnot and a few other members have helped me with (and are still offering knowledge).

I have owned my 92 YJ since I was 15 years old; passed down to me from my grandpa to be my first car and my daily driver till I got a new vehicle and garaged the Jeep. It has been occasionally driven here and there for minor fun off-road purposes, but nothing to serious.

Specs off of the top of my head:
--4.0L
--stock suspension (absolutely horrible)
-- D30 front D35 rear
-- on 30" tires (maybe) with 15" rims
-- 3.55 axle gears I believe
--NP231 Transfer Case
--AX15 transmission
-- other than that I'd have to look at my Build sheet

This year I decided that I want to learn how to basic wrench and fab and ultimately build my Jeep for a mild to moderate off road vehicle. No crawling, street safe, but reliable on trails from desert, to established mountain trails.

That being said here is the list of ideas I plan to carry out over time (money, time, and skill is of serious issue so this Build may be painfully slow for some).

In somewhat of order:
--complete fluid change and brake change
--as much as I want to repair the CAD, I am leaning towards just going straight to the 1 piece axle (may still repair CAD to learn about it
-- either BDS 4.5 inch lift or a RE heavy duty 4 inch lift (still back and forth on the two) on 33" tires
-- CV driveshaft (Adams driveshaft) and SYE (brand not chosen)
--replace all windows on hardtop
-- cut fenders
-- new seats ( front and rear)
-- BUY A WELDER (Hobart 210 MVP or Everlast iPower Mig 205)
-- swap the D35 with a Ford 8.8
-- along with axle swap install a lunchbox locker in the rear and rehear the D30
-- the welder then comes into place and I would like to fab my own front bumper (winch ready) and a rear bumper with a tire carrier

And of course any repairs or whatever else along the way. I would like to accomplish most of these tasks through DIY (besides the re-gearing). If anyone has any other ideas let me know (besides the SOA lift, I will eventually do that when I feel comfortable with my skills or have a well knowledged jeeper besides me).

Sorry for the long intro and no photos, I will post photos of accomplishments and trails I go out on. As for a name, I have none yet lol.

-Torey (NOT a Mechanic)
 

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If you are going to lift it you are likely to need to do something to address the drive shaft angle- SYE with a CV joint seems to be a popular path.

What gear ratio are you going for? If you go to a 4.10 you can get an 8.8 from an Explorer that is already geared with a limited slip, while it is not a locker you may find it meets your needs. If you go with the 4.10 you can get stock gears for the D30 from a 2.5 YJ.
 

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If you are going to lift it you are likely to need to do something to address the drive shaft angle- SYE with a CV joint seems to be a popular path.

What gear ratio are you going for? If you go to a 4.10 you can get an 8.8 from an Explorer that is already geared with a limited slip, while it is not a locker you may find it meets your needs. If you go with the 4.10 you can get stock gears for the D30 from a 2.5 YJ.
Very good point. It may even be cheaper to buy a complete 4.10 D30 and swap it in depending on the availability of parts in your area. This may also fix your CAD issue if the problem is on the axle and not the vacuum switch or lines. Good luck, i'll be looking forward to pictures!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I forgot to mention plans for the drive shaft angle with the lift. I do plan on a SYE (brand undecided) and an adams drive shaft as I have heard good things from them.

And for the axle swap the Ford 8.8 with the 4.10 is what I had in mind. I was unaware that the 2.5L YJs came stock with a D30 with 4.10 gears. I will definitely keep my eyes out for that. Thanks for the info.

As for the CAD system, Defcon1 has walked me through everything and with his help we narrowed it down to the connection on the transfer case. The 4wd line is constantly applying vacuum suction and when I shift the T-case into 2wd the suction does not shift over to the other line to disengage the CAD fork.

Work done today.

I installed new interior and exterior door latches on the drivers side. Lubed all internal components and that was that. Simple yet frustrating day. I had a hell of a time putting the the vent window back into place.
 

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Keep up the hard work Tbone11-11. You'll be a mechanic in no time and will have hell of a YJ when you're done.
 

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if you get a 4cyl d30 out of a 95 it will come with the bigger u joints as well as 4.10 gears

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Discussion Starter #7
Been a while since I've been on. Like I said, slow build... but I had a little time today to just take off the fenders. Very small but I think it makes a big outcome in my opinion as of looks.



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Discussion Starter #8
So, sorry for the absence as I haven't had time to work on the jeep (family member terminally sickness). Anywho... I took my jeep out to test the 4wd and it worked great, so the transfer case linkage was the issue with 4LO not working. But the jeep died and I had to get towed home. Replaced the battery and the check engine light is on with the ignition on. So the ECM is fine. Tested the crankshaft position censor and that tested fine. Now my next step is to test the camshaft sensor, can anyone provide me with some instructions on how to test it? (And maybe some photos to dumb it down a bit?)


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Discussion Starter #9
I tested for spark and there was none. I replaced the crankshaft sensor, even though it tested fine, just to see if it would help. Still no spark. So that leads me to the camshaft sensor now.

As for fuel pressure, before I replaced the crankshaft sensor I didn't have a fuel pressure gauge, but I pressed the valve in and fuel squirted out. After I replaced the crankshaft sensor not only do I still not have spark, but I have no fuel pressure (I'm assuming due to that fact when I press the valve no fuel squirts out).

My fuel gauge reads a half of a tank and I know that is correct so it's not a empty tank problem.

So two issues to address, the lack of spark and now the fuel pressure.

Could anyone provide some detail on where the camshaft sensor is located and how to test it? And I do have a FSM, but I don't know what section the parts I am searching for would be under. Any help with that would be much appreciated as well so I could tag the page for future reference.

Thanks,
NOT a Mechanic


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Discussion Starter #10
Reviving a stalled build thread.

After many months of school, work, and dealing with a terminal illness in the family, I️ was able to take the Jeep into a shop and address the standing issue.

Fuel pump is fine, cam sensor needs to be replaced and my PCM is fried.

The PCM was sent off to be rebuilt and I️ was told it is beyond repair. So it leads me to either buy a remanufactured or a used one from eBay.

I️ am not sure what route to go and unsure if my Jeep is CA emissions or not (I️ believe it is). I️ don’t want to fork out $300 and end up purchasing one that does not function properly.

Is there a benefit to buying used over remanufactured?
-remanufactured comes with a lifetime warranty
-used no warranty

What would the consequences be if I️ mistakenly purchased the wrong emissions standard PCM
-I️ read a post on jeep forum stating that they’re all basically the same, just as long as they’re from a Jeep with the same engine
-will I️ run into smog issues as a CA resident

I️ have searched my questions on google and forums and derived these opinions
-any 91 to 95 4.0L M/T PCM will work
-if the new PCM is not year and part# matching to my current (fried) PCM, it will need to be flashed

Thank you for any response, and again, sorry for the inactivity. As my build dreams are still there, my time is occupied with other more important things. But I️ would still like a running Jeep to putt around in.

Link of remanufactured
https://m.ebay.com/itm/1992-Wrangler-YJ-4-0L-Replacement-Engine-Computer-ECU-ECM-LIFETIME-WARRANTY-/132371177385?_mwBanner=1

Link of used
https://m.ebay.com/itm/JEEP-WRANGLER-YJ-1993-4-0-6-CYL-MANUAL-TRANSMISSION-PCM-ECM-ECU-56027368-2162/222849618115?epid=1234385214&hash=item33e2df50c3:g:T2QAAOSwubFaaPlR:sc:USPSPriority!20011!US!-1

Picture of fried PCM



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Discussion Starter #12
That’s what I️ was leaning towards. Now to distinguish the part number. I️ looked at my old unit and I’m a bit stumped on the part number as it is in a different layout than I️ have found online.

My PCM has a number stamped on it reading 79-8363. When I️ sent it in to have it rebuilt, they wrote on a tag and wrote a different number, 79-8386.

However the ones that I️ see online, such as eBay and threads on here, there are numbers starting with 56027... with different last three numbers. There was no sticker or anything on my unit like I️ have seen on the ones from Craigslist.

Mine


What I’ve seen



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Discussion Starter #14
Waiting for the tax return to come in and I’m contemplating what lift to get. I know I want a BDS lift and I plan on running the MetalCloak Overline front and rear fenders. I would also like to run 35” tires eventually.

Im between the 2” lift or the 3.5” lift. And it basically comes down to being able to run the 35’s, not rub on my fenders, (which MetalCloak claims their fenders allow you to run 35’s with a minor lift), and still be able to hit decent obstacles.

Would I be better off with the shorter lift, or is more lift always better?


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Discussion Starter #15
Actually did some searching and found a good solution from a post over at Jeep forum. I’ll just go with the 3.5” BDS lift.

But I’m wondering if I should get the 1” front and rear shackles with the kit. I’m not too sure what they’re for. Do I need them? Or should I forgo them?


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Discussion Starter #16
Hey everyone, I’m not sure if this is a dead thread now because of my gaps in between posting, but I’m going to change out all of my fluids next week and want to double check to make sure I put in the right stuff.

For the transmission I see a lot of people are putting in either redline MT-90 or 10w 30 synthetic. I’m pretty sure mine has 75w 30 in it right now.

The transfer case calls for ATF +4.


For the front diff, stock Dana 30 I see factory calls for 75w 140 but a lot of people are using 75w 90.

The rear diff, I have a anti spin rear diff, so could I still use 75w 90 or do I need something else? On Jeep solids YouTube he mentioned If you have a limited slip to use a different weight.

And motor oil for the 4.0 10w 30 synthetic.

I plan on using ams oil where applicable and if you guys have any other recommendations that would be cool too.

Thanks.


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Discussion Starter #17
Also, the fluids in the tranny and engine are pretty old and have sat quite a bit, would you guys recommend a flush?


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Anyone have any tips to crack loose the transmission fill bolt?


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Heat. It is a steel bolt into an aluminum case right? Dis-similar metals create corrosion between them that holds them together. Applying heat will break down that bond. the two metals expand and contract differently which also breaks the bond.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
All the fluids are changed and I had to repair a steering shaft bearing. The best part is I finally got my amended tax return which will be for my lift.

I want to go with BDS 3.5” lift. I’m adding in quick sway bar disconnects, new steering stabilizer, new shackles and bushing and sleeve kit.

After purchasing that, next will be a new Adams driveshaft with a SYE.


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