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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I purchased a 2015 JKU with the factory Mopar 2" lift installed and love it. While driving it and adding bumpers, winch ect I noticed the Jeep became more settled. Because of this I chose to add a Teraflex 1" coil spacer kit all around to gain what I lost and add a little extra.

Over the weekend I chose to install the puck and being a suspension novice I watched a ton of YouTube videos and read a lot of threads. Needless to say this project became a pain in the butt.

In my research it shows a few steps needed to add pucks. I disconnected disco's, lower shock bolt and front driveshaft and still could not get the axle to drop far enough to get springs out. Finally what did it was disconnecting the track bar and it barely made it. This was a full weekend project for the front only due to fighting the axle. It has to be because the Mopar springs are taller or at least that's the only reason I can think of.

For those interested I added the pucks to the front only for the time being and it drives almost the same as before. I think I sense a little flightyness but it may be my imagination and overall I am happy. Next is the rear ...... before I dig into it are there any secrets that I am not aware of before I start? It would have been nice to know a track bar disconnect was needed on the front:(

I do have a couple questions regarding track bars and AEV geo correction brackets as I am still learning. I see Teraflex offers a beefy adj track bar so I am curios if that is the best one on the market right now? What will it fix? Do I need to add braces too or will bolting it up to stock brackets work fine?

What will geo brackets correct and if I replace both geo brackets and TB what should I expect?
 

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If you didn't loosen the control arm bolts, then you will be fighting the bushings when trying to lower the axle. It's always a good idea to loosen those bolts when making any ride height adjustments, then tighten them with the vehicle on the ground.
 

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A spring compressor might have made the task a lot easier?
 

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I have never needed a spring compressor when installing or removing springs on a wrangler. Loosen the control arm bolts, disconnect sway bar link, trac bar may be necessary since you already have large springs. I imagine you are using jack and jack stands. I always compress the side I am not removing the spring from to force the other side to sag a little more. Use the natural flex of the Jeep, and it's easy going.
 

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You need to really muscle them out if you dont do what jac04 said. I had to sit on the rotor/axle while lifting up on the spring to get mine out. The rear end was an absolute pain in the rear end. I had to use a block of wood on the spring perch and jack the axle up to pop in the spring spacer. BTW I installed the TF 2" leveling kit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
If you didn't loosen the control arm bolts, then you will be fighting the bushings when trying to lower the axle. It's always a good idea to loosen those bolts when making any ride height adjustments, then tighten them with the vehicle on the ground.

Interesting. I figured with both the entire front dropped there would be no resistance on the control arms because both driver and passenger would be at the same level. Note to self for next time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Any thoughts on how a new TF TB or AEV geo correction will effect the Jeep? If I had to pick just one to start with which one would offer more benefits for the buck?
 

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I have the Mopar 2" lift with both TeraFlex front and rear adjustable track bars. The adjustable track bars help those of us with OCD get things lined up the way they should :) I also have the AEV geo set up. Ive read all sides of the story relating to the extra mass hanging down and ground clearance, honestly I don't think they hang down that much and for the on-road performance I'm willing to sacrifice a little clearance. Our JKUR is my wife's daily driver, so I wanted to make sure drivability and safety were the best it could be for her.
 

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I can why it was an all day project, especially the time it took to disconnect the drive shaft.
Be sure to take the tracbar off at the axle bracket (best to do while on the ground, same for reattaching). Also I have a buddy lift up or gently jack up the opposite side of the axle to lower the side that you're working on.
 

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Any thoughts on how a new TF TB or AEV geo correction will effect the Jeep? If I had to pick just one to start with which one would offer more benefits for the buck?
There are some serious pros on this forum and I consider myself more of a learner on here than a teacher, but this is how I picture whats going on to understand the concepts.

An adjustable trackbar will allow you to control axle center in relation to the body side to side. (Example, facing the front grille does one wheel stick out farther than the other).

Geo correction brackets will reduce your control arm angle (think of a Harley Davidson with the long ass chopper forks (long arm kit) compared to a Sportbike (short/mid arm kit) with the front wheel much closer to the bike. Now, I don't think the Geo's change how far you are pushing your axle forward dramatically but they do change the angle at which the control arms (motorcycle forks) sit.

My choice would be the Geo's to reduce seat impact when the suspension cycles (what it feels like on your ass) and combat brake dive (Front end nose diving when braking hard).

I'll stay tuned in case one of the pros stops in to say how way out in left field I am, but that's my .02 cents until further notice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
If I chose to add the GEO bracket and the TB. The jeep can be on the ground not jacked up, correct? What will a beefier rear track bar do when I already have the drop brackets installed. Looking for more stability ie less swagger from the rear. Will this correct?
 

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There are some serious pros on this forum and I consider myself more of a learner on here than a teacher, but this is how I picture whats going on to understand the concepts. An adjustable trackbar will allow you to control axle center in relation to the body side to side. (Example, facing the front grille does one wheel stick out farther than the other). Geo correction brackets will reduce your control arm angle (think of a Harley Davidson with the long ass chopper forks (long arm kit) compared to a Sportbike (short/mid arm kit) with the front wheel much closer to the bike. Now, I don't think the Geo's change how far you are pushing your axle forward dramatically but they do change the angle at which the control arms (motorcycle forks) sit. My choice would be the Geo's to reduce seat impact when the suspension cycles (what it feels like on your ass) and combat brake dive (Front end nose diving when braking hard). I'll stay tuned in case one of the pros stops in to say how way out in left field I am, but that's my .02 cents until further notice.
Right. A track bar may help stiffen the steering but wont change overall handling. If caster is low geo brackets will #1 get caster back to spec. #2 reduce harshness due to flattening the CA angles.
 

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Kj is spot on.

Just wanted to give him a little credit, I have read alot of his posts and he is a great asset to this forum!
 
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