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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
TJ 4.0, manual trans, 120k miles. New PCM 2 years 4months ago. Then new cam shaft position sensor, then crank shaft position sensor, new Crown Automotive ODPA Gear oil part with cam sensor on it, and even a coil pack. Every once in a while, the Jeep would be hard to start, but it would, and check engine light would come on, and then eventually go off. Now, check engine light came on and stayed on, local shop said maybe bad cam shaft position sensor so they put another one on. They said "your jeep is ready", went to pick up and engine turns over but really does not want to start. They came out 2 hrs later, Jeep never moved, started right up (this start no start scenario is happening all the time and the Jeep is not moved!). Pulled ODPA gear part that goes down into crank shaft gears which has been on for a year or so, and that part is not worn but the crank shaft gears are. Three shops now can NOT find an electrical problem checking pins at pcm, none believe it is the pcm (never stalls), but at like 45-50 even if you get it running it starts kind of like bucking per say! I have seen a TON of articles about this bad ODPA gear pump assembbly and o-ring location and that the shaft gears and cam shaft gears are the same metal hardness? I have to put in a new ODPA part and camshaft and doing lifters and timing chain, and HOPING that fixes it but again, how can it start one time and another time not, sitting in the same location? Wranglerfix.com guy Mark does NOT think it is the computer either. I have to fix this please and I am at a loss, can not find anyone with any other ideas! Please!!!!!
 

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:welcome: to the Forum..:wavey:
 

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What yr?

If it starts bucking at around 2500 RPM you are in limp mode and hitting the rev limiter.

On Off On Off On without starting will display the code in the odo.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Aftermarket ODBA and Sensor

Local shop put in the new Crown Automotive ODBA Gear part last year, has run fine until just recently. They swapped out cam shaft position sensor again just for the heck of it (NAPA-Dorman I think?), not good! I just purchased another ODBA assembly with cam shaft position sensor cable on it from quadratec, AND I just went to O'Reillys and got a brand called "Standard". I have to check with the shop on the code as it in their maintenance bay right now. I wish I could find an old OEM cam shaft position sensor, never heard of this problem so the past shop probably threw it away! Uhhhhh!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I have to check tomorrow morning...misfire I think was the last code, thinking 344 like intermitent signal? Ken told me ALL about this cam shaft position sensor and the problems with the aftermarket ones and checking clearance on it and some people have to shave or shim it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So many are saying the cam shaft position sensor from Crown or others is a problem, and keep the original. I am looking on line and it "seems" like I can buy the OEM version from Amazon?
Part number: 4897321AA
 

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The new OEM ones are not the same as the originals. People have had problems with them as well.
 

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So many are saying the cam shaft position sensor from Crown or others is a problem, and keep the original. I am looking on line and it "seems" like I can buy the OEM version from Amazon?
Part number: 4897321AA
That's the part number for the crankshaft sensor not the cam shaft

Even the new Mopar cam sensors from the dealer are made in China.

I have replaced them 3 times now, seem to work for a year or two.
 

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Just to help you with your research, it's an OPDA (Oil Pump Drive Assembly) and it meshes with the CAM shaft not the crank shaft.... simple mistakes but would make your google searches come up empty....
Good luck
 

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Even the new Mopar cam sensors from the dealer are made in China.

I have replaced them 3 times now, seem to work for a year or two.
This is the issue.

I think the best bet for an OE sensor is a junk yard and a TJ that ended up there years ago. Trouble is that the OE, Dorman, Crown and current Mopar sensor all look identical.
 

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Just a wild shot in the dark here, but I chased an irregular misfire that got progressively worse for a month and changed out a lot of parts until I accidentally found it in the dark. PO had changed the plug wires on my 98 4.0. Coil wire was straight connector wire off the coil bent against the disturber base, angle connector on the cap. Coil connection was arcing through the boot to the distributor. Changed the coil wire to a double angle ended one. Never a misfire afterward. Little things can mess you up, but I now have some spare parts for later in a box. Good luck to you.
 

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Just a wild shot in the dark here, but I chased an irregular misfire that got progressively worse for a month and changed out a lot of parts until I accidentally found it in the dark. PO had changed the plug wires on my 98 4.0. Coil wire was straight connector wire off the coil bent against the disturber base, angle connector on the cap. Coil connection was arcing through the boot to the distributor. Changed the coil wire to a double angle ended one. Never a misfire afterward. Little things can mess you up, but I now have some spare parts for later in a box. Good luck to you.
I had a random cylinder misfire that ended up being a failed catalytic converter. I changed plugs and ordered a new CPS (never installed) before figuring it out my cat was junk.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Aftermarket ODBA and Sensor

Local shop had to turn OPDA (not aligned with the pins now), to correct it from being out -267 degrees to tyr and get to "0" or somewhere close? Their scanner (a snap-on versus), they said would not do a reset? They said they tried a manual relearn where you get it up to like 50mph or so and then let off gas and repeat 3 times? They are hoping if they can reset then they can put OPDA in proper position? Any of this making any sense?
 

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Makes no sense to me...
Simple process, even if the old OPDA was totally misaligned or missing completely.

Crank engine over to get #1 cylinder to top dead center, align new OPDA sensor wheel with the plastic pin that came with it before dropping into the engine block. It will drop in and completely seat against the engine block when the oil pump and the gears line up. As long as the sensor wheel is locked in with that pin when it goes in and the #1 cylinder is TDC, timing would be near perfect. The orientation of the OPDA housing doesn't really matter as long as the other items are where they should be.

If I could do it myself, almost anybody can do it. Not sure how the shop is having that much trouble. Maybe there is something else going on, that I don't know about. That is possible. Maybe they should pull it out and start over from scratch, following the basic instructions that are available on several really good Youtube videos.

Good luck.

Merry Christmas!
Happy Holidays!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Okay, so I hear that if the 8th character in your vin is an "S", then these were Jeeps that were part of the Chrysler recall? Mine would be affected if so, and I thought it was lifetime of the Jeep I read?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I went to the Mopar site, put in my VIN, and it came up with E05, which they have a letter for if you click on it, and it says it is a "CAMPAIGN" which according to their info is: A campaign is a vehicle problem that is not a safety concern. There are two types:

An Emissions Recall (listed above); and
A Customer Satisfaction Notification: A Customer Satisfaction Notification (CSN) is preventive in nature and involves warranty or customer satisfaction issues that are non-safety related. FCA US LLC will correct the problem, at no charge, even if the vehicle is out of warranty and you are not the original owner.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I paid the dealer 247.00 for diagnostic fees, and they solved nothing, and on this very same page, it says you CAN get reiumbursed!

https://www.mopar.com/en-us/my-vehicle/recalls/results.html?vin=1J4FA49S95P339531

Owners may visit www.fcarecallreimbursement.com to submit your reimbursement request online. You can also mail your original receipts and proof of payment to the following mailing address:

FCA US Customer Assistance
P.O.Box 21-8004, Auburn Hills, MI 48321-8007
ATTN: Recall Reimbursement
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
On their website it says "FCA Complete", does that mean on 21 March 2005 someone did something? How can you fix a problem with the same part, which actually did not exist yet? I have to call the 1-800 number tomorrow and see what is going on!
 
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