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Discussion Starter #1
so a couple weeks ago my Jeep start jarring to the right when hitting the brakes. When i say jarring i mean almost crapping myself, the wheel was off center real bad too, I could smell brakes bad from the drivers tire when i got home and the wheel was really hot. Got in it an hour later and no problems the rest of the day. Yesterday when running to the store it locked up again, this time I was about 15 minutes from home so I stopped multiple times and had brakes cooking on the drivers side again, smoke and all. Drove it an hour or so later with no problems.
Had new pads and rotors put on May of last year.

Any ideas?
Thinking of buying new calipers and lines for the front to be done with it.

This is on a 2016 Jeep Unlimited Altitude, 60k on the Odometer
 

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Either the caliper is seizing, possibly the slide pins or the brake hose is failing.
I'm leaning towards the rubber brake hose.
 

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Sound like something is sticking. Very common on jeeps that are wheeled in mud/wet climate. I've had to replace caliper several brackets because the corrosion inside it severe. I recommend starting there.

Procedure:

1.) Clean and/or replace the brackets, pins, and boots. Lubricate the slide pins.
2.) Inspect the caliper piston for any damage or corrosion. If all is good proceed to step 3. If they are damaged or corroded, replace them.
3.) I typically have the rotors turned because they usually warp from the abuse the sticking caliper caused.

Hope this helps. Be sure to report back!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Either the caliper is seizing, possibly the slide pins or the brake hose is failing.
I'm leaning towards the rubber brake hose.
Thanks Jdinny
I guess i was on the right track then.
Just an odd chain of events, i even jacked it up after letting it cool a bit and the front wheels free spin without any drag. But man when it wanted to act up it just let Jesus take the wheel. It would slowing feel like it was out of alignment which i guessed was the wheel being slowed down. The jeep won't correct itself by applying brakes to the opposite side will it?

Thinking of buying the Teraflex BBK for the front with brake lines and calling it a day.
 

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If it is a brake hose, the line deteriorates inside, or, the bracket where the line bolts to the axle rusts inside and squeezes the line. Initially, it will let the fluid flow back to the MC slowly, but as it gets worse, the brake will always drag.
It's an easy, cheap fix. I found this on my Cummins Ram.
I had replaced the caliper about 6 months before, and it started dragging again.
I figured no big deal, went and picked up a new caliper and a set of pads, and as I was taking it apart, the pucks would barely compress back into the caliper with water pump pliers, normal for a seizing caliper, but, as I went to install the new caliper, it would not compress with the new pads, I said WTF. So, I tried compressing the "old" caliper and it pushed right it. Pulled off the brake hose and could barely blow through it.
So now, it's late Sunday, parts stores closed. I removed the hose, cut the rusted up bracket off, and worked the hose a bit with pliers under where the bracket held it and I'll be damned if it didn't work. I put it back together with a zip tie holding the hose drove down the road and no more dragging!!!
I drove it back and forth to work all week like that, and replace both lines the following weekend.
I am 66 yo, been messing with cars and trucks since the late 60's, and had NEVER seen this before.

Anyway, the lines are 15 or 20 bucks from NAPA or your favorite parts store.
Pick up a line and one of those 20 dollar 1 man bleeder bottles and it will take about 1/2 hour. If that cures it, just go ahead and replace the line on the other side as well, and depending on how bad it wore the pads, them too.
Good luck.
Hope that works for you
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Sound like something is sticking. Very common on jeeps that are wheeled in mud/wet climate. I've had to replace caliper several brackets because the corrosion inside it severe. I recommend starting there.

Procedure:

1.) Clean and/or replace the brackets, pins, and boots. Lubricate the slide pins.
2.) Inspect the caliper piston for any damage or corrosion. If all is good proceed to step 3. If they are damaged or corroded, replace them.
3.) I typically have the rotors turned because they usually warp from the abuse the sticking caliper caused.

Hope this helps. Be sure to report back!

I was surprised when I test drove it later saturday that it didn't shimmy after they smoked the way they did.
After taking the caliper off it was very hard to compress and didn't move very free when taken apart but still hooked to the line.
I don't think Im going to repair the brakes I may just replace both fronts entirely.
 

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I was surprised when I test drove it later saturday that it didn't shimmy after they smoked the way they did.
After taking the caliper off it was very hard to compress and didn't move very free when taken apart but still hooked to the line.
I don't think Im going to repair the brakes I may just replace both fronts entirely.
Open the bleeder valve and try to compress piston or disconnect the brake hose at the caliper. This will determine if it's the hose collapsing internally or the caliper is bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I bought the Teraflex big brake upgrade for the front; It has Calipers, Pads, and rotors. I also bought the Teraflex stainless lines. So its getting fixed one way or the other.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Swapped the front brakes out for a BBK kit from Teraflex and stainless lines. I have only put about 15 miles on it so far so I can't speak on if it has solved it since it has been a random issue these past couple weeks. However when taking the DS off the caliper with the brake line still on I had to use a pry bar so I think it was the issue itself.
If anybody is wondering, with these new brakes from TF the Jeep stops like a beast and I am running 17" Black Rhino Rokus with Yokohama 35's.
 
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