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Discussion Starter #1
Hi yall,

I switched my 2.5 coils with 2 in spacers to 4in coils.

Everything aligned back up nicer but my driveshaft doesn't reach about half an inch when trying to reinstall.. I gained barley an inch if any in height after swap.

Tried jacking multiple points to reach.

Thx
 

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Just need to work it. Try pushing it in (collapsing it), then pulling it back out (extending it). Maybe a few taps with a hammer on the female side of the slip joint to try to unbind it. If all else fails you can disconnect your control arms on one side to get the axle close enough to get the DS bolted back on, then use the axle as leverage to extend the DS, and get the control arms bolted back up.
 

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if this is where you mean to hammer pushing the shaft into the tcase. No budge, same little amount of jiggle
No there isn't a slip yoke. It is a slip joint near the center of the drive shaft where the boot is. That's where it telescopes. Tap along the shaft with a hammer to see if that will Unseize it.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
No there isn't a slip yoke. It is a slip joint near the center of the drive shaft where the boot is. That's where it telescopes. Tap along the shaft with a hammer to see if that will Unseize it.
Going to try to tap on the side. If not.. PB blaster with vice grips and hammer on the grips?.. i doubt I could use heat with the boot in the way/messing up splines.
 

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Where are you going to put the Vice grips?

Here are the stock driveshafts (top and bottom)



Both driveshafts can telescope where the rubber boot is.

I was thinking you could tap along the length of the shaft where the grooves are to potentially unseize it. To get Pb blaster in the slip joint you will have to remove the boot. Also there is a Teflon coating on the slip joint from the factory I don't know how blaster will react with it.

Like others have said you might need to take the springs back out and stuff the axle into the frame to get close enough. Then drop it back down and put the springs in.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Where are you going to put the Vice grips?

Here are the stock driveshafts (top and bottom)



Both driveshafts can telescope where the rubber boot is.

I was thinking you could tap along the length of the shaft where the grooves are to potentially unseize it. To get Pb blaster in the slip joint you will have to remove the boot. Also there is a Teflon coating on the slip joint from the factory I don't know how blaster will react with it.

Like others have said you might need to take the springs back out and stuff the axle into the frame to get close enough. Then drop it back down and put the springs in.
I was going to vice onto the grooves where you mentioned to knock with a hammer.

Well my boot has a slight tear in it so I could spray whatever into there. I'm thinking WD40 will be better than PB blaster? So Ill try that and knock it around on the side to unseize.

If not, I also think removing the springs and stuffing the axle inward should work...BTW I have AEV geometry drop brackets to be installed..Should I try seeing If I am able to stuff the axle once the LCA's are detatched???

Thanks for all the contributions guys!
 

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I see. Not sure if you'd be able to get enough bite with the vice grips for that to work. If you haven't solved the problem by now I think it's time to get the axle closer to the DS instead of the other way around.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I see. Not sure if you'd be able to get enough bite with the vice grips for that to work. If you haven't solved the problem by now I think it's time to get the axle closer to the DS instead of the other way around.
Haven't gave the sides a good pounding yet with some WD40.

I know I'll end up removing skid, dropping axle and removing springs in the morning. Blehh.
 

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Haven't gave the sides a good pounding yet with some WD40. I know I'll end up removing skid, dropping axle and removing springs in the morning. Blehh.
I wouldnt use wd40. Wd40 is a solvent and will remove any grease that may be in there.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
^^This gets my vote. Work smart, not hard.
So I took this philosophy to heart this morning.

I jacked up the drivers frame and dropped the driver side axle. This made the flange and pinion come about 1cm from each other. Just long enough to slide a couple bolts in and wrench them in some. This brought the flange even closer but lopsided one side of the flange, so I used a small clamp vice to shorten the distance even more and the yoke unseized..

I'm glad it took me a lot less work. Sometimes you just have to sleep on problems like this!!!

Thx again for the contributions y'all.
 

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So I took this philosophy to heart this morning.

I jacked up the drivers frame and dropped the driver side axle. This made the flange and pinion come about 1cm from each other. Just long enough to slide a couple bolts in and wrench them in some. This brought the flange even closer but lopsided one side of the flange, so I used a small clamp vice to shorten the distance even more and the yoke unseized..

I'm glad it took me a lot less work. Sometimes you just have to sleep on problems like this!!!

Thx again for the contributions y'all.
:thumb:
 

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If your boot is already torn it is only a matter of time before you'll need a new shaft.
 
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