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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Should I always let air out of my tires when off-roading through trails? I'm only familiar with driving on the beach. Also, will a stock track bar snap easily?
 

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Should I always let air out of my tires when off-roading through trails? I'm only familiar with driving on the beach. Also, will a stock track bar snap easily?
Yes, and air down on sand too. Make sure you have a way to air back up.

Stock TB aren't as meaty as aftermarket, but they won't bend too easily.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thank you! Yeah I always do for the beach and there is air there but I gotta invest in a compressor now for trails
 

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Yes air down every time that you can. Makes such a huge difference on my body let alone my jeeps.
 

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Is there a good way to measure when and where to take out air? I am new to hitting the trails. I have a 14 Sahara with 33's and a 09 Rubicon with 37's.
 

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Drive a trail aired up and then air down to 15 to 18 and try the same trail. Night and day for the ride. Aired up hard beats you and the rig to death. I air down as soon as I am about to leave the paved road. I use a Curry deflator to air them down fast and easy. If you have a small compressor and big ties airing them back up can take some time. Get a better bump cuts the time in half. Smitty built makes some nice ones. If the filling station is close within 5 or 10 miles I sometime just limp there and fill back up. A high pressure co2 tank is the real ticket for airing up fast.
 

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When would be the only time you won't need to air down?

And can someone tell me when to use 4H and 4L. When to disengage the sway bar and axle lock.
 

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When would be the only time you won't need to air down?

And can someone tell me when to use 4H and 4L. When to disengage the sway bar and axle lock.
When I go the Rausch Creek, I just air down from the start. I also keep it in 4L and disconnect the sway bar from the getgo. I only use lockers when needed though.
 

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Can you shift to 3rd while on 4L? Not to exceed 25mph correct? And u can't shift 4L to 4H and vice versa unless u are going 2-3mph or from a dead stop and with the clutch in?
 

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Switch from 4L to 4H and vice versa should be done when rolling at 5 mph or less.

If the trail you are riding allows you to exceed 20-30 mph easily, you want to be in 4L. When the terrain is nasty enough that makes you slow down below that the you might want to consider 4L. If there are lots of big rocks , off camber spots consider engaging 4L. It's hard to engage it when you need it and are stuck on a rock or a hill or something.

Excess use of 4L will heat up the transfer case, especially when the speed is higher, say > 15 mph. You may want to take breaks or dunk in water / mud so it cools down a bit...I think Rubicons come with a temp gauge for that, my Sport did not have one.
 

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When I went offroading yesterday when I had it in 4L when I had to switch to 2nd it grinded twice. Any reason why? My jeep never grinded before. I'm pretty sure I had the clutch in. Also when I get it to 2nd gear the jeep would shot forward. I don't remember pushing the gas for it to do that.
 

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When I went offroading yesterday when I had it in 4L when I had to switch to 2nd it grinded twice. Any reason why? My jeep never grinded before. I'm pretty sure I had the clutch in. Also when I get it to 2nd gear the jeep would shot forward. I don't remember pushing the gas for it to do that.
The gears in the transfer case are non-synronized and will grind if they are still moving.
 

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Here is my very limited experience:

If you're going to be in the hills, or moving over rocks, staying below 15 mph, you want to be in 4 low for the gear ratio. Go ahead and disconnect your sway bar if you can. If you are driving an auto, learn to use 1st and 2nd. It's amazing how steep of a hill you crawl down with no brakes in 4 low 1st. Just be careful about letting your foot hover on top of the gas. It feels like you are riding the brake and you might smash the skinny pedal in a panic trying to hit the brakes because it feels like you are riding the brake. Also, going from 2nd to neutral feels a lot like going from drive to reverse which can confuse you for a few seconds.

I find it easiest to simply put the transmission in neutral, no foot on the brake, and shift into 4 low. Then put it into gear and give a tiny amount of gas. The same works for me to get back into 2 high with no grinding at all.

As far as the lockers, the rear locker can definitely help get you through most situations you will encounter through mid level trails. In the mud, I run the rear most of the time since it is simply easier. I only kick in the front when I really need it because of the difficulty steering. When it's dry and I'm not going through very difficult terrain, I don't bother with either locker.

Lowering the air pressure in your tires will definitely help with traction and to allow your tires to wrap around the rocks. Just don't get too crazy if you don't have bead locks.
 

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Switch from 4L to 4H and vice versa should be done when rolling at 5 mph or less.

If the trail you are riding allows you to exceed 20-30 mph easily, you want to be in 4L. When the terrain is nasty enough that makes you slow down below that the you might want to consider 4L. If there are lots of big rocks , off camber spots consider engaging 4L. It's hard to engage it when you need it and are stuck on a rock or a hill or something.

Excess use of 4L will heat up the transfer case, especially when the speed is higher, say > 15 mph. You may want to take breaks or dunk in water / mud so it cools down a bit...I think Rubicons come with a temp gauge for that, my Sport did not have one.
Thanks! That helps a lot.
 

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Ok, I have a stupid noob question as well...

Can you disconnect the sway bar on the Sports and does it have locking diff (lockers ???) or is that just with the Rubicons?

Thanks.
 

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Ok, I have a stupid noob question as well...

Can you disconnect the sway bar on the Sports and does it have locking diff (lockers ???) or is that just with the Rubicons?

Thanks.
Should be able to disco the sway bar on a sport.. may need hand tools to do that.. and less some special order only the rubi come with f/r lockers.. look for button on the center console.. You can install lockers after market of course.
 

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they sell tire deflators... that will reduce your air pressure to a set amount so that all tires are the same, and you can screw the deflator in, walk away, and it will deflate then stop by itself.. no stooping over and measuring and letting air out and measuring, repeat a dozen times.


btw, I don't have them, yet. but they are on my xmas list.
 

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I have the cheaper deflators that have no presets just screw onto the stems and use the TPMS on the dash to monitor pressure. When it gets down to 15 psi I take them off.
 
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