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I know the plastic oil filter “cover” is speced to be torques to 18 ft lbs. I went to torque it today and felt it was right enough however it was less than 18 ft lbs.

Normal?
 

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I have a dial torque wrench for that and never had an issue at 15 ft*lbs.
 

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Being paranoid of the giant oil cooler leaking/cracking issue thread I tighten mine down to 8 foot pounds. No leaks so far.
 

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We all have a different way of tightening the filter on the 3.6. The factory recommends 18 ft. lbs. I lubercate the o'ring with oil and torque it to 12 ft. lbs. I have never had a issue doing this.
 
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I hand tighten mine until the lubricated seal "squeaks". It's typically 7-8 lbs.
X 2. Virtually finger tight after the seal squeaks. It's plastic. After the threads of the cap are seated all the way into the housing, further tightening just stresses the plastic. It doesn't make the O-Ring seal any better!!
 

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Snug for me too. Just enough that the flange is seated to the housing.

The more important thing is that YOU are tightening it down and not some oil change tech that wrenches it down as tight as possible!
Exactly why I started doing the oil changes myself. Plus it’s hard to beat a synthetic oil change with MOPAR filter for 40 bucks!
 

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I lube the o-ring with super lube, and just snug it up.
Does not have to be super tight as the o-ring does the sealing
 
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We all have a different way of tightening the filter on the 3.6. The factory recommends 18 ft. lbs. I lubercate the o'ring with oil and torque it to 12 ft. lbs. I have never had a issue doing this.

That's pretty much what I do. Most torque values are for threads that are not lubricated. So torquing threads with lube or residual lube to 18 ft lbs for example might actually translate to 25 ft lbs or more had the threads been dry. 10-12 ft lbs. should be plenty, mine doesn't leak torqued to that amount, do I will continue doing it that way.
 
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