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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Guys

spent hours reading this horror story about an un fixable oil leak / filler/ cooler housing. Seems like this is just the way it is...
Does anyone know the straight poop on this other then Jeeps owners falling into deep depression ?

I have a 2015 JK and from what I read - just expect an oil leak that will never be fixed ( for good ) and our engine leaking oil and failing at anytime so dont even think about taking a long trip..
So its just take this new vehicle and put in in the garage and look at it..???

The THREAD about the MAJOR issue was so depressing I feel like taking my brand new Jeep and returning it..

Does anyone have any good news or recall or upgraded part..

Should we let the dealer change our oil as the filler housing is so bad that one wrong move and its over..

GEE WIZ what a sad story

Some one tell me it isnt that bleak

P Scott :pullinghair:
 

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It's a problem don't get me wrong but I think it was blown a bit out of proportion. I also thing the DIY'er who takes the time to properly remove and install the cartridge filter and not gorilla tighten it down will be fine. When removing the oil filter, I used a filter wrench attached to an extension and socket wrench and was able to hold the housing so all the torque was on the cap. A strap wrench would probably work too. Do the same thing when you tighten it down, and don't over tighten it. IIRC it is torqued to 22 ft. lbs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks - what a cruddy design... just wondering if its better to let dealer do it or do it myself. I heard the dealer screwing them up to..AMAZING

but thanks
 

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Thanks - what a cruddy design... just wondering if its better to let dealer do it or do it myself. I heard the dealer screwing them up to..AMAZING

but thanks

Honestly I'd prefer not to have the dealer touch anything I own. Oil changes are not something a good tech is going to be assigned to. Oil changes are a loss leader and they try and get them in and out fast if there's no other service being done. I do my own work, let the oil drain long enough, and make sure everything is tightened the right way. Then I use a quality oil and filter, not something from a bulk drum. The last time a dealer changed my oil was to replace an oil pan gasket under warranty. When I went to change the oil after that I cursed the guy who did the job for over tightening the drain plug, and oil filter to the point that I had to poke a hole through it with a screw driver to get it off. That was after exhausting all other options. No thanks to the dealer changing my oil after that fiasco.
 

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I heard the dealer screwing them up to..AMAZING
There is some speculation that some of them were screwed up during final assembly at the factory.

IMO the people who over tighten the caps and break the oil cooler housing are the same dumba$$es that would break a spark plug off thinking "tighter is better".
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks - Im a retired mechanic so Im sure I could swing the oil change.. just thought it was good to have a record of them doing it.. but your right, the bottom of the Tech pool does the oil changes...Think I will do it myself...
thanks again
 

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Think I will do it myself...
Good decision.

I also like the suggestion of holding the housing while loosening & tightening the cap. I'm getting ready to do my 2nd oil change and I'm going to try this.

FYI, The spec is 18 ft-lbs on the cap.
 

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I posted this in another thread but it's worth repeating for perspective.

I get a company car as do all of us field reps and in the company there are something over 700 Chrysler vehicles. In our fleet there's no history of oil leaks or major problems with these vehicles (I called the fleet service department) which are all Pentastar powered. The 2012's experienced a few head gasket failures but that was well documented and also was solved.

We all put pretty hard miles on our cars and in the two years I typically have one, I'll easily have 95,000 miles on it when it's replaced. I'm on my third Pentastar vehicle, a Dodge Journey, and like all the others before it, it gets serviced at Jiffy Lube and Goodyear. If anyone would have bad luck with oil leaks it should be me, right? Isn't getting the oil changed in a Pentastar at Jiffy Lube basically begging for trouble?

The point is, the vast, vast majority of Pentastar engines will never leak oil or anything else but the unfortunate few that do, if they're Wranglers, will probably be discussed here which can make it seem like a guarantee of failure, but it's just not the case.

I think the Pentastar is a solid engine and like any other engine a small percentage of them will have problems. It's just my opinion based on my own experience and it's worth noting that I don't work in the auto industry or anything even remotely related to it. I've just been driving the living hell out of Chrysler products for 30 years.
 

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Yep, this oil cooler housing cracking, should have never happen. If you read through the major long Thread on this, it's caused by two issues. Over tightening the oil filter cap, and other cracks that are not oil filter related, but are still in the cooler housing.

They will only campaign this housing, if they see enough failures with this issue. Don't rely on it, because it will probably never happen!!!!!

Keep in mind, just like the Cylinder head issue in the 2012 models, the odds are that yours will never have this problem!!!!!!!!!

I would carry a couple of extra quarts of oil with me on long trips, and not worry about it..........:thumb:
 

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jeeps don't leak!!!!!






they mark their territory......
 

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Been buying factory Oil Filters and doing my own changes,, hand tighten,, NO more.. Stay away from the quick oil change monkey's and you should be o.k. Do it yourself!
 

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Thanks - Im a retired mechanic so Im sure I could swing the oil change.. just thought it was good to have a record of them doing it.. but your right, the bottom of the Tech pool does the oil changes...Think I will do it myself...
thanks again
Keep receipts for your oil and filters, and a log showing when you changed it. As long as the oil is the recommended grade and spec, and you keep a record of when you change it, you'll be fine. The intervals are spelled out in the owners manual and you have an OLM to go by. Read the OM it will spell it all out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks guys - you gave me peace of mind... feel better
 

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I've done some oil changes on this engine on Chrysler vehicles as well as the first 2 oil changes on my Wrangler. I just use a torque wrench and torque it to spec. Never had an issue. But if you take it to a quick lube you are tempting fate as a lot of those guys have no idea you can't crank it down.
 

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I've done some oil changes on this engine on Chrysler vehicles as well as the first 2 oil changes on my Wrangler. I just use a torque wrench and torque it to spec. Never had an issue. But if you take it to a quick lube you are tempting fate as a lot of those guys have no idea you can't crank it down.
Amen!! The 'do it yourself' rule never fails.
 

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Yeah, well I'm staring down the barrel of a 2012 3.6 losing what is starting look like now up to about 1/4 quart a month. I noticed it starting to happen slowly over the last year. It isn't on the ground so not sure where it's going at this point... My suspicion is the head replacement last year due to the ticking Pentastar (only 1 side, really, now I have one fixed and another that could go at anytime) I'm only at 26.5k miles too.

Is there a test for that sort of thing or do they have to pull the head again to check maybe the head gasket seal?
 

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The first thing I noticed doing an oil change on my jeep was that the cartridge was in a plastic housing. I do my own oil changes, and always torque everything to spec. I've worked on all kinds of vehicles over the years, and never had a single issue with anything I've fixed.
 
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