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Problem removing drain plug: Was in a hurry and did not warm up the engine before trying to remove the drain plug. Could not remove it. Have been changing oil for years and always torque to speck. Rounded off the plug. Used extractor, but could not budge. Left for 2 hour drive, returned and while engine still hot, tried to see if I could remove it. While tapping on the extractor, the plug turned. Lesson: engine must be warm (HOT) to remove the drain plug.
 

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Problem removing drain plug: Was in a hurry and did not warm up the engine before trying to remove the drain plug. Could not remove it. Have been changing oil for years and always torque to speck. Rounded off the plug. Used extractor, but could not budge. Left for 2 hour drive, returned and while engine still hot, tried to see if I could remove it. While tapping on the extractor, the plug turned. Lesson: engine must be warm (HOT) to remove the drain plug.
Damn! Thats weird. Never had an issue with mine.
 

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That's weird. It's a good idea to warm it up anyway to get a better drain of whatever may be floating around in there, but I've never seen temperature play a role in removal torque.
 

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I've never had a problem with removing the oil drain plug, whether the engine had been warmed up or not. I've heard it's a good idea to do so as far as getting the old oil out but never to make it easier to remove the plug. That's a new one.
 

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Curios, if it was stuck that hard I can't imagine the oil pan gets hot enough to help loosen it. I know a torch can help but does oil get hot enough to help with a stuck plug?
 

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Curios, if it was stuck that hard I can't imagine the oil pan gets hot enough to help loosen it. I know a torch can help but does oil get hot enough to help with a stuck plug?
If you torque something down hot and the bolt has different heat treatment then the threads the threads will contract more than the bolt when cold. Basically drawing it tighter. Warming up the oil pan expands that contact point to the way it was when it was tightened down in the first place.

When you are using a torch on a stuck bolt you are trying to do something different. You are trying to break it loose from a seize. (likely from corrosion.)
 

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How much over-thought can be put into one very simple thread? :whacky: Use the proper tool in the proper manner and none of the rest of this matters including hot, cold, or anything else. Always use a 6 point socket or wrench and keep it firmly planted on the bolt head and you will never have an issue. Drain plugs are intentionally made of material softer than what they screw into to avoid stripping the threads out of the pan. While using the right tool and using it correctly you will never damage the head of a plug.
 

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Wait. You guys don't use a torque wrench when installing the drain plug? Shame on you!


EDIT:
Saw that the OP says he's using a torque wrench. Hmmm, that's good. IIRC, the torque is only 20 ft-lbs (IIRC), so it's surprising that it gave him that much trouble when cold.
 

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Replace with a Fumoto oil drain valve and never worry again. It is worth its weight in gold once you install an oil pan skid :)
Agreed one of the easiest, best, cheapest, and often used mods I have done.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
FYI - I always torque to 20'#. The new plug purchased from dealer, is made of much better material, also, has a different gasket design.
 

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Problem removing drain plug: Was in a hurry and did not warm up the engine before trying to remove the drain plug. Could not remove it. Have been changing oil for years and always torque to speck. Rounded off the plug. Used extractor, but could not budge. Left for 2 hour drive, returned and while engine still hot, tried to see if I could remove it. While tapping on the extractor, the plug turned. Lesson: engine must be warm (HOT) to remove the drain plug.
I would suspect that someone gave you a MURPHY (prank) by tightening it more than you left it. Hot or cold, proper torque does not increase to the point of stripping the bolt!!! I can highly recommend using a Fumoto Oil Drain valve. Since I have been using them on my heeps, I have not spilled even ONE DROP of oil on the concrete. I eliminated the need for the oil drain pan and put the drain hose directly into the 5 gallon gas can I use to take it back to Auto Zone for recycling. It is one of the best investments I have made this year. BAR NONE!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
FYI only: Last word - I have changed oil in this JK since new in 2008 every 5,000 miles. That was about 20 times without a problem. Used torque wrench every time. The only difference this time, I did not warm up the engine as one should.
Note: went to dealer to purchase new plug, different material and different gasket. I don't think they changed the specs on a drain plug for the heck of it. Cost, $8.00. Visited O'Reilly Auto. They have choice of two; one similar to dealer with 13mm and a built in gasket: $7.00. Another with 5/8" with a separate gsk at $5.00.
My suggestion (only): if one has an original drain plug from a 2008 or? Get a new plug and exchange next time, of course, after warming up the engine. Hopes this helps someone.
 

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I recently had this problem, I stripped the drain plug doing my first DIY Oil change. The problem was I was using a 12 point socket. I swapped it out for a 6 point and it came off without a problem.
 
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