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Discussion Starter #1
I just saw a Facebook feed where the cam's and lifters were rounded and scorched, I would really like to get the most life out if my pentastar. They were discussing the use of oil additives and using certain weird brands of motor oil (I don't think the cam came out of a pentastar)

My question is, what kind of oil is my best bet? I like in NW PA so the weather varies a lot. I've let the dealer change my oil and now it's time to use my choice. They discussed using Rotella or adding Lucas additive.

I don't want this thread to turn into a bickering session, I would swear by valvoline, while others swear by mobile one... This isn't what I'm looking for, I'm looking for the guys that disassemble motors on a daily basis and have seen the proof and have the knowledge of what oils keep the motor from excessive wear.
 

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Use the oil recommended in the factory owners manual be it synthetic, blend. or dino as long as it meets the Chrysler MS or API cert called for you are good to go. do Not use oil additives also stated in the owners manual. note Rotela oil is formulated for diesel engines and is poor choice for gasers. My experience and I have been around the block more than once. and after several tests by Blackstone lab I feel that full synthetic oil in an engine is a waste of money. I use it in all my gear boxes but not as engine oil
 

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My problem is, oil is oil... Additives make a brand... All brands lie to promote. I'm looking for that guy, the one who has torn apart 100's of motors to chime in. I have 6 motors under my belt, I haven't redone any of them due to being sold. I'm looking for the old timer that has experienced using sets of oils and experienced the wear, or the fresh newbie that has been schooled on these ALUMINUM blocks. I know, bearings, but aluminum makes a difference.
 

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Discussion Starter #5

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It takes a lot of abuse to round off steel camshaft lobes and steel lifters. The aluminum block/heads are going to show abuse before cams and lifters should.

As others have mentioned, stay away from Rotella and Diesel rated oils. Rotella is a great oil, but it is for Diesels.

Stay away from additives. They do nothing for the oil or the engine, but lighten your wallet and in some cases, have been shown to be unfavorable.

Oil all comes from the same place, the Earth. It may be simply processed as regular motor oil, processed some and mixed into a synthetic blend, or highly processed into fully synthesized motor oil. It all works and as long as it is chosen for climate, loading, and changed appropriately, they all work well.

Get the proper weight blend for the Pentastar and as long as it meets the API rating for the application, you'll be fine. Stay away from your father's motor oils [high viscosity 'peanut butter' oils] because engines don't have loose tolerances like they once did in the 1960s through the 1980s.
 

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I just saw a Facebook feed where the cam's and lifters were rounded and scorched, I would really like to get the most life out if my pentastar. They were discussing the use of oil additives and using certain weird brands of motor oil (I don't think the cam came out of a pentastar)

My question is, what kind of oil is my best bet? I like in NW PA so the weather varies a lot. I've let the dealer change my oil and now it's time to use my choice. They discussed using Rotella or adding Lucas additive.

I don't want this thread to turn into a bickering session, I would swear by valvoline, while others swear by mobile one... This isn't what I'm looking for, I'm looking for the guys that disassemble motors on a daily basis and have seen the proof and have the knowledge of what oils keep the motor from excessive wear.
Let me get this straight. They suggested Rotella [a good oil btw, but not spec'd for your Wrangler] or adding Lucas additive [a major no no]?. Both products could void the warranty if an oil related problem occurs. Will "they" cover the repairs if that should happen? No, their advice isn't any good at least IMO. The oil Chrysler spec'd for your engine is fine, follow their recommendations for changing it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Your the guy I want to avoid, my first paragraph, at the end, in quotes state "I don't think it came out of a pentastar".. Your words have no context in what I'm asking except for inciting ignorant discussion. I would like to avoid that.
 

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Too late.... YOU started an ignorant discussion right there......you ask for advice and then call people ignorant for answering...... and you need to learn the difference between your, and you're..........read a book.......
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Cut one head off, and 2 shall rise in its place. Thank you HP917, you got it and responded with intelligent information.

I can't compete with the other lug nuts, trolling just to lose compression for post points. Unfortunate. Could have been a good thread if "intellectuals" would have chimed in, but, guess i scored a sleeve and the blow by ruined the thread. Go blow a rod oil pan!
 

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Im the old guy your looking for I got my first car in 1955 a beater we just poured whatever was cheapest in the engine and in those days it was rare for a car engine to last 100 k I spent over 4 million miles as a otr driver and fleet owner I am also a certified reciprocating aircraft engine mechanic. As a fleet manager I used many different oils and tested them to establish wear and service intervals. while synthetics are great oils in a fleet operation the added cost does not off set the miner improvement in performance and made no difference in engine wear however we did find improvement in gear box use to warrant the higher cost. Bottom line use the oil your comfortable with that meets the manufactures specs. for the record Im 75 and still enjoy 4 wheeling
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Im the old guy your looking for I got my first car in 1955 a beater we just poured whatever was cheapest in the engine and in those days it was rare for a car engine to last 100 k I spent over 4 million miles as a otr driver and fleet owner I am also a certified reciprocating aircraft engine mechanic. As a fleet manager I used many different oils and tested them to establish wear and service intervals. while synthetics are great oils in a fleet operation the added cost does not off set the miner improvement in performance and made no difference in engine wear however we did find improvement in gear box use to warrant the higher cost. Bottom line use the oil your comfortable with that meets the manufactures specs. for the record Im 75 and still enjoy 4 wheeling
Thank you!
 

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Wow, such hostility. Well maybe it was my fault. My rant was against the people who put up the recommendation on the FB feed. I should have cleared that up, sorry. Either way Rotella, unless its in the recommended viscosity, and meets MS6395 spec [I don't know the year of the Wrangler] or Lucas would certainly not bode well if there was an oil related problem while under warranty. Especially if the vehicle in question called for a 20 grade oil.
 

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Rotella is a great oil but for diesels........I DISAGREE....... But let me say up front that I don't know how it would do in the Jeep.
I have a 2002 Honda Goldwing (1800cc 6 cylinder engine). I have 85,535 miles on it, and have used Rotella T-6 synthetic oil and their other synthetic oil before they came out with T-6. My Honda calls for 10w-40 oil, and the Shell Rotella is 5w-40 so there is no problem using it. My engine and transmission share the same oil, so when I do an oil change, both components benefit. I have never had an engine or transmission problem. The motorcycle shifts smoothly and runs better than anything I have ever driven. I don't put additives in the oil, as additives are usually friction reducers and those will cause clutch slippage. Also, Shell Rotella T-6 is JASO approved, which means it is GREAT FOR MOTORCYCLES, and will not void their warranty.

I'd have to do some research as far as using it in the Jeep, but if I don't find anything to keep me away from using it, it will be my regular oil. WallyWorld sells it at $21.49 a gallon.....that's for a full synthetic oil. And you can't do better than that.
 

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I think there is not an issue here. This applies to flat tappet camshafts. Most all engines today have roller lifters. ZDDP additives in the oil kept the lifters and cam lobes on flat tappet engines from wearing down. ZDDP levels are now a lot lower in most oils, for awhile Rottela still had high levels of ZDDP, not sure about now. Anyhow it's apples to oranges. The issue with worn cam lobes is for old flat tappet engines, especially hot rods with high valve spring loads. Today's Jeep engine just doesn't apply here.
 

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[ Im the old guy your looking for I got my first car in 1955 a beater we just poured whatever was cheapest in the engine and in those days it was rare for a car engine to last 100 k I spent over 4 million miles as a otr driver and fleet owner I am also a certified reciprocating aircraft engine mechanic. As a fleet manager I used many different oils and tested them to establish wear and service intervals. while synthetics are great oils in a fleet operation the added cost does not off set the miner improvement in performance and made no difference in engine wear however we did find improvement in gear box use to warrant the higher cost. Bottom line use the oil your comfortable with that meets the manufactures specs. for the record Im 75 and still enjoy 4 wheeling]

This ^
I would also like to add, most of the engines I've rebuilt were not worn out, but run low on oil, oil was seldom changed, or engine had ingested something. Decent oil and regular oil changes will make an engine go a long ways nowadays.
 

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Use the oil recommended in the factory owners manual be it synthetic, blend. or dino as long as it meets the Chrysler MS or API cert called for you are good to go. do Not use oil additives also stated in the owners manual. note Rotela oil is formulated for diesel engines and is poor choice for gasers. My experience and I have been around the block more than once. and after several tests by Blackstone lab I feel that full synthetic oil in an engine is a waste of money. I use it in all my gear boxes but not as engine oil
Rotella isn't necessarily a bad oil for gas engines, but it's a bad choice for a modern computer and emissions controlled gas engine. Rotella's great if you're rolling a muscle car that needs higher zinc/phosphorus for flat-tappet protection. In a newer vehicle, that's not needed and is a pollution concern...its probably not great for a catalytic converter, either, but I haven't heard anything specific about it. I can't say for sure on Rotella, but I know Delvac still has the higher ZDDP concentrations; I sent a sample to Blackstone a couple of years ago to make sure since there was some question on another forum about a possible formula change.

I use regular valvoline (either conventional or synthetic blend) in the JK, and Mobil Delvac 1300 (similar formula to Rotella, which is my backup product if Delvac is out of stock) in my '66 Corvette. Wix filters all around. I wouldn't use a free Fram on any vehicle I own...I've cut them open and they are not well made.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I appreciate the conversation, some good info here. I own a '13 JKUR and pushing 25,000 miles. I've let the dealer change my oil (first new car) as they led me to believe that my warranty depends on it. I'm the type of guy that like to change my own oil and I stick to the same brand. I am making some changes because I have gotten to know one of the service managers and he pulled me aside one day and told me a few things, one of those pertained to the oil they use is generic and not as good as claimed to be, he wouldn't disclose the brand. My conversation with him started when I started to hear my lifters clatter upon first start and the bad head. I've been getting the run around, I was told I have the newest head and this is normal only to find out I have the AB head. I've had them cold start other jeeps and there is no (or minimal) clatter. My lifters sound like they're jumping out of their seats, it's loud... It started with morning starts (cold) now it can happen multiple times a day if engine gets cool enough. Dealer isn't going to do anything until I throw a code and I was informed the computer flash they did a few months after I purchased it was to make the code threshold more difficult to flag. I decided to just take control of my own oil again and use a reputable oil. I'm also getting screwed on the head replacement warranty extension, they used the end of July 2013 build date to offer the extended warranty, but my build date is 8/03, two days off... Mechanic guy told me they fully intend on screwing me over and I will not get the warranty. I have the AB head. So I'm lost at the moment. 40 grand and I have to fight and drive in fear. BALLS!
 

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As long as you use Chrysler spec. oil, even Mobil One, there's no need for additives in a 3.8 or 3.6. Chrysler doesn't recommend it. You won't have any issues. Most Chrysler dealers use bulk Penzoil in my area. It seems like your service manager is steering you away from the dealer, which is odd, but maybe he's doing you a favor. You can use a private shop if you rather not do it yourself. Just document it with receipts.
 

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When I was looking at oil in the store this weekend, only Penzoil and Valvoline were specifically stating that they are compliant with Chrysler on the bottle.

I don't know if that helps with his discussion, but it might narrow your choices down.

I admit that I may have missed it, but I found the Ford markings on some and no Chrysler. I'm sure that doesn't mean the other oils aren't rated, but I like it to say it right to my face.
 
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