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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is a SLOW buildup of Ole grey. I bought this YJ the 2nd week of Feb in 2014. At the time it had I6, 5 speed manual, 3.55 gears, 31" tires, 2.5" Life, 8k Warn Winch and a couple KC lights.

She had 198,000 on the odometer when I grabbed it. The Fuel gague doesnt work from E to 1/3 tank. The Speedometer half works (sometimes nothing, sometimes 120, sometimes 80, and sometimes works like it should but off by about 10 mph), the stereo SUCKED, and the front speakers were blown. ALso the PVC Hose was broke spewing oil everywhere and the transfer case has a stretched Chain.

Since that time I have installed Kenwood Stereo, Kicker Dash Speakers, Soundbar (plan on upgrading with Pyle 6" woofers), Oil change, Prep for CB, and replced the Center Console.

Also installed a "Kill Switch" consisting of a 3 position Switch and some rewiring. In "Up" mode the fuel pump works and nothing is affected. In "Down" mode the Power is shut off from the Fuel pump and Re-directed to Air Horns. So theives may get about 50 ft down the road but the horns will be blasting at the same time. The Switch is hidden behind a LOCKING STEEL BOX located somewhere on the vehicle. I intercepted the power from the Fuel Pump Relay right at the fuel pump so wouldn't be easy to "override."

Heres some pics as it stands now:










Need to Repair this summer:




Still to come:
4.10 gears
Dual batteries
Repair to Speedo and correct Gear
New Soft top
New Front and Rear Bumpers
New Seats
Complete the CB Install
RhinoLine the interior


Far Future
Rebuild as a Stroker
New Paint Job


I've always wanted a Wrangler since I joined the Navy in 1989, but things always had a way of messing up. So after a "Sports Car Phase" and several "Family" and Economical Phases I'm finally able to live the "Jeeper Dream". This Build will go on for Awhile as Funds are a little tight and it'll take time so be prepared to follow for the Next Couple Years LOL.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks!

Also forgot to put I picked it up for $3500. My 96 Hardbody needed a rebuild Transmission and the cheapest I can find was about $2000. Sold the HB for $1500. So all in all I spent my budget and came out the same lol. I'll end up spending more in the Long run cause the HB was were I wanted it and the Wrangler I'll building up to where I want it lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
While on Vacation, I picked up a couple 4" work lights from HarborFreight and a couple tow hooks. The Work lights I'm going to install on the rear to activate as reverse lights AND have a Toggle where I can keep them on if needed. Going to relocate to the Front KC Lights to the edge of bumper so I can install the Hooks.

Some parts came in while I am on Vacation.

Vacation has been fun and needed but can't wait to get home and start working on the Jeep again
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Adding some rear Worklights. Come on with Reverse or I can Override on a Toggle switch to keep them on. Only got one mounted. Screwed up the bolt for the other one so gotta wait till tomorrow to finish. Then going to wire them up:



Also relocated my Front KC lights so I can mount Tow Hooks. Got the 2nd holes drilled but the bolts that came with the hooks aren't QUITE long enough (can JUST see the tip). So gotta wait till tomorrow to finish that too.


The TC Chain came in but still waiting for my Radiator. Tomorrow I'll finish the lights then mount my Steel box in the back that will hold all my equipment I carry and can lock it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Made some Paracord Door Stoppers. Haven't totally decided on color. I have 4 more colors to choose from and going to make them all before I decided which ones look better.



Got a new radiator installed. Want to save the pic so I remember what they look like clean :p



My Steel box. It's 8 bolted in with Red Loc tite. Each "seam" has been welded internally. Holds my Snatch Block, D Rings, Tow rope, Recovery Rope, Jumper Cables, and Spare Oil/Antifreeze

 

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My PCV hose is cut as well. I've got a small oil leak...about 1/2 qt a month. I just changed valve cover gasket because the PO did a sloppy job. I'm wondering is the PCV hose isn't the source of the leak.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well I found out it's not an actual PVC it's Crankcase Vent. But I had horrendous oil over my motor. Found a crack in the hose about 2" from the Valve cover. Fixed it, cleaned up the motor and still looks great.
 

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My hose is just cut and hanging down below the engine. Engine is also covered in oil and below around the oil pan. I can't find anything the hose would connect to. I've been referring to my chilton book but I don't have the hook ups the book does. Wondering if I can plug it with something.
 

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Both hoses are sniped. The front hose that is supposed to connect to the air box and the hose on the back that gets vacuum from next to the exhaust manifold or brake booster. I'll post a picture tomorrow. Can't remember what engine you have but mine's the 2.5L.
 

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Here are a couple pictures of my engine. You can see the larger vacuum hose is cut and the small hose that goes to the air system.

Auto part Fuel line Engine Vehicle Carburetor



Engine Auto part Vehicle Car Fuel line



Vehicle Car Engine



Auto part Engine Fuel line Vehicle Automotive engine part

Any insight into this will be greatly appreciated! It doesn't idle super rough but I'm wondering if the hoses were attached if it would be smoother and of course better for the life of the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Ok did a little bit of quick research. This is a picture of the CCV System on 1991-1995 2.5l system



I have a B-day Party to attend today so I MIGHT not be able to dig REAL deep until after 6pm pst :)


 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I'd follow that hose with the Bolt in it and see if it happens to go where the Outlet hose for the CCV system is supposed to go. It's possible there could be a Elbow missing to connect the 2
 

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I've tried to find a spot for the CCV fitting to connect and I don't see anything. The air inlet hose doesn't have a connection either by the air filter. However, there is a capped off tube right next the valve cover. It's in the middle of the picture below.

Fuel line Auto part Engine Vehicle Car

I've also attached some pictures of the area around the air filter. This is my first rodeo fixing a car so I could totally be off but I don't see anywhere for either hose to go.

Auto part Engine
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Hmm....might need a picture of the engine overall. Also I dont believe these hoses would have any issue with idling unless they both were blocked at the Valve Cover. But it appears at least one is open. All these do is relieve pressure off the Engine and cycle the fumes back into the system. On my Camaro I just put a small Air filter on the Inlet and let the outlet drop into a Recovery tank. But I also don't have Smog Checks in my area and this does help on Emissions. Heres a good explanation: What Is a CCV Orifice on a Jeep Wrangler? | eHow

But in all honesty you can just let the intake hang open in the air and collect the "oil particles" in a recovery system. In either case, the Outlet Hose (the one on the side of the valve cover) should go to the Intake Manifold down by your throttle body
 
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