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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've decided to scrap my spindle type bumper mounted tire carrier for the trusty (and expensive) ORFab carrier. Now the problem is deciding to go with the jerry can holder style or the straight tire holder. Kinda worried about departure angles with the jerry cans, but love having them back there with my current setup. Opinions? Anyone have experience with one, or both? Wish they made the Rotopax model for the TJ like they do for the JK.
 

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I've decided to scrap my spindle type bumper mounted tire carrier for the trusty (and expensive) ORFab carrier. Now the problem is deciding to go with the jerry can holder style or the straight tire holder. Kinda worried about departure angles with the jerry cans, but love having them back there with my current setup. Opinions? Anyone have experience with one, or both? Wish they made the Rotopax model for the TJ like they do for the JK.
The jerry can model sucks. Go with the tire carrier. I got rid of mine because of the obnoxious overhang of the jerry can one.

You can make shift the rotopax mounts on the tire carrier one and it'll be 110% better than the jerry can one. :thumbsup:
 

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I had the jerry can style ORF carrier on my previous TJ and didn't like how far out the tire was positioned. After that TJ was stolen & I needed another carrier for the replacement TJ, I went with the non-jerry can version. I much prefer the non-jerry can style after having had both styles.
 

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Good advice above, I ended up hacking my jerry can version up. Too much cantilevered weight and I simply didn't need the cans. Hacked out the center section and pulled the tire tight the jeep, welded it up. Pretty sweet carrier in this config.
 

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I am installing my OR-Fab right now. I bought the tire carrier only. I like it a lot, too.

But I am having issues with the fit of the carrier in the hinge plate. It will NOT fit the way it is supposed to. And the two internal brackets were bent a bit wrong. One was at 95º and one at 85º so I had to break out the BFH (actually a rubber mallet) and pound both until they were 90º and would fit in the tub properly. And the hinge plate was also a bit bent. Seems like I got the one that was dropped off the back of the truck onto the warehouse floor. Like 20 times... :-(

This sort of thing *really* bugs me when the price is so high.

I have the thing nearly done, but have to figure out how in the world I am supposed to get the carrier to fit. The body work is pretty much done. Lots of new 7/16" holes in my tub, heh, heh, heh...

I had an extra wrinkle in that I have a part-out TJ of the same color and year model from which I wanted the tailgate. (Mine has a shallow, but very long dent at the top and bottom of the stock carrier from a light rear ending.) I did not need to remove the hinges fully for the dented one, just needed it off the Jeep. The good one needed the hinges removed so I could mount the OR-Fab plates beneath them as per the instructions. So I had to pull 12 T-40 Torx bolts. Got ten of them. Two stripped the splines out of the heads. Drilled them out and pulled the stumps. Everything went well. Both tailgates work well now that the strikers are adjusted.

This carrier will be great once I get it all together...

Two bits of knowledge to share if you do the install yourself:

1. The factory thread locker is brittle if it is over ten years old. I ended up NOT using heat to free the bolts in the tailgate. I used a long 12mm socket and a ball-peen hammer and beat the snot out of the heads before ever trying to pull them. Don't worry about the paint on the heads as you toss the original bolts anyway. The two that stripped out would have broken free had I beat on them more. This was how I got the stumps removed. After more beating (and swearing) the simply came out with my fingers. All that drilling to get the heads off could have been saved had I been more thorough with the hammering.

2. The unit in the passenger rear fender with the EVAP canister, Leak Detection Pump, etc. (2003-2006) is easy to remove if you can get the hoses disconnected. I had nearly given up on ever figuring out the large hose connection. Then it hit me. The ivory-colored connector has this insert on the side that I thought was some sot of lock ring that clicks off. It is a button. Press it with your thumb and pull the flat, round thing that connects up into this connector straight down. It comes out easily. I wasted at least an hour online looking for the answer after finding nothing on it in my FSM.

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the advice fellas. I'll def be installing myself so that's great info to know. Holton, where did you order from? I'd like to avoid the bent brackets if possible haha
 

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Thanks for the advice fellas. I'll def be installing myself so that's great info to know. Holton, where did you order from? I'd like to avoid the bent brackets if possible haha
Quadratec, of course! ;-)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Sooo, what bumper did you guys go with? I'm liking the JCR Offroad but it's unfinished. $299 plus shipping and then powder coating on top is putting it around $550.
 

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Sooo, what bumper did you guys go with? I'm liking the JCR Offroad but it's unfinished. $299 plus shipping and then powder coating on top is putting it around $550.
You don't HAVE to powdercoat it. A lot of people just prime it and then rattle can it. Much cheaper.
 

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I have the OR-Fab tire carrier non jerry can version and also have OR-Fab bumpers. They are great and solid. Like other have said don't get the jerry can set-up. Its way to long. The spair tire stick out way to far. Unless you truly think you need to carry extra fuel. The rear bumper is very nice and fit perfectly. It also has built in tow receiver so you can cary a bike rack or tow small utility trailer. OR-Fab make really quality products. The bumper will take you less then 30 minutes to install but the tire carrier is very time consuming. It will probably take you 4 to 6hrs depending on your skills.
 

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Sooo, what bumper did you guys go with? I'm liking the JCR Offroad but it's unfinished. $299 plus shipping and then powder coating on top is putting it around $550.
All of our products over 100$ ship for FREE! so just however you decide to finish your bumper!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I have the OR-Fab tire carrier non jerry can version and also have OR-Fab bumpers. They are great and solid. Like other have said don't get the jerry can set-up. Its way to long. The spair tire stick out way to far. Unless you truly think you need to carry extra fuel. The rear bumper is very nice and fit perfectly. It also has built in tow receiver so you can cary a bike rack or tow small utility trailer. OR-Fab make really quality products. The bumper will take you less then 30 minutes to install but the tire carrier is very time consuming. It will probably take you 4 to 6hrs depending on your skills.
Yeah, I've heard they are a pain to install, but def worth it. I just ordered my bumper from Bob at thedirtworx.com

The good/bad news is OR-Fab carries the Rotopax carrier for TJs now. I've been busy calling all the major distributors to eggy them to add it on the website. Be prepared, it's pricey.
 

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I went with the JCR rear bumper and tire carrier. I like how everything is nice and tight to the back of the Jeep and I will also be installing the Rotopax as well. Everything is build very nice and stout. Just need to decide if I'm painting them or powder coated them.

Matt
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
All of our products over 100$ ship for FREE! so just however you decide to finish your bumper!
It was a tough choice because I do love the JCR stuff too. It came down to budget this go round. When it's time for a front bumper you guys are definitely in the running.

I like the tire carrier setup too, but absolutely can't stand the rattling from the spindle/ bumper mount style.
 
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