Is your trackbar and draglink at the same angle? Are your heims worn out causing them to loosen up?
If you have zero bumpsteer then I would do a dry steer test and see if there is any movement at the heims or trackbar joints.
OTK Steering Problem
So I have the RuffStuff OTK Steering kit with the heims. So I have the problem when I'm driving over 40 mph my jeep sways all over the road. It makes it very difficult to control and drive on the highways. So do I need to relocate the track bar? If so, could I reuse the aftermarket one I currently have.
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If you have zero bumpsteer then I would do a dry steer test and see if there is any movement at the heims or trackbar joints.
Trackbar and draglink aren't at the same level which is causing me to have bumpsteer, sorry I mean to add that. I found a bracket to relocate the trackbar but could I use my trackbar I have now with it?Is your trackbar and draglink at the same angle? Are your heims worn out causing them to loosen up?
If you have zero bumpsteer then I would do a dry steer test and see if there is any movement at the heims or trackbar joints.
If the trackbar you have now is adjustable then yes.Trackbar and draglink aren't at the same level which is causing me to have bumpsteer, sorry I mean to add that. I found a bracket to relocate the trackbar but could I use my trackbar I have now with it?
Doing OTK steering is a pretty big undertaking if you want good results.
The first problem is the axle side track bar mount needs to be relocated so that the drag-link and track bar can be parallel, in the same plane and the same length.
Doing that right often necessitates moving the spring perch back to make room for the new mounting point.
The next problem you can run into is the drag-link won't clear the frame at full bump, so you have to notch the frame to make room.
Then you run into diff clearance issues, and you end up needing to raise the frame side mount...and while you're at it, you might as well make it double shear. But to make this work you need to cut off the stock mount, and build a double shear mount. Now to eliminate the bumpsteer you'd get from this you need to make the pitman arm flat...instead of the slight offset from the stock version.
Examples of good setups:
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Here's more reading:
Another TJ tie rod flip - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
ORO U-turn questions.. - Page 2 - JeepForum.com
OTK Steering, Knuckle to knuckle tie rod - JeepForum.com
The first problem is the axle side track bar mount needs to be relocated so that the drag-link and track bar can be parallel, in the same plane and the same length.
Doing that right often necessitates moving the spring perch back to make room for the new mounting point.
The next problem you can run into is the drag-link won't clear the frame at full bump, so you have to notch the frame to make room.
Then you run into diff clearance issues, and you end up needing to raise the frame side mount...and while you're at it, you might as well make it double shear. But to make this work you need to cut off the stock mount, and build a double shear mount. Now to eliminate the bumpsteer you'd get from this you need to make the pitman arm flat...instead of the slight offset from the stock version.
Examples of good setups:
Here's more reading:
Another TJ tie rod flip - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
ORO U-turn questions.. - Page 2 - JeepForum.com
OTK Steering, Knuckle to knuckle tie rod - JeepForum.com
5
Thanks for all the links, getting a better understanding of what I need. I'll post some pictures of my steering because I can't really think of anywhere to mount the TNT Bracket I found. Probably a stupid question, but could me not running a sway bar up front have the lane changing effect I'm having also?
4
Yes it affects it a lot. I have my swaybar disconnected up front and I run a OTK ruffstuff kit and I wander a little too.Thanks for all the links, getting a better understanding of what I need. I'll post some pictures of my steering because I can't really think of anywhere to mount the TNT Bracket I found. Probably a stupid question, but could me not running a sway bar up front have the lane changing effect I'm having also?
http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/sakicnut/media/photo1_zpsb4ff8a39.jpg.html
http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/sakicnut/media/photo2_zps302a99a9.jpg.html
http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/sakicnut/media/photo3_zps820419b0.jpg.html
http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/sakicnut/media/photo4_zps281504cd.jpg.html
So you think I should try the relocation swaybar mounts and see what that does first? It never really wandered when I had them connect before I had to cut the mounts off.Yes it affects it a lot. I have my swaybar disconnected up front and I run a OTK ruffstuff kit and I wander a little too.
Well ultimatly you should fix your bumpsteer by getting your draglink and trackbar angles evened out. However I would start by getting youe swaybars connectedSo you think I should try the relocation swaybar mounts and see what that does first? It never really wandered when I had them connect before I had to cut the mounts off.
like I said, you need to move the spring perches to get a location to weld the track bar mount....if you want to meet all three criteria for good steering (parallel, same plane, same length). If you compromise on length, you can put a short track bar over the axle tube....but there are other consequences.Thanks for all the links, getting a better understanding of what I need. I'll post some pictures of my steering because I can't really think of anywhere to mount the TNT Bracket I found. Probably a stupid question, but could me not running a sway bar up front have the lane changing effect I'm having also?
The sway bar effects body roll. Wandering is a caster problem, or alignment issue. both those need to be fixed - as part of totally reworking your steering/track bar setup.So you think I should try the relocation swaybar mounts and see what that does first? It never really wandered when I had them connect before I had to cut the mounts off.
Right now, if you're not willing to totally rework your entire front end to make the OTK steering work, then you need to go back to the stock type inverted-Y.
OTK needs a lot of custom fabrication. It's not a simple bolt up affair at all. It's generally only taken on by those with experience & skills.
If you want to keep the OTK setup, you'll need to complete the rest of what's required for good steering....custom spring perches & shock mounts, build your own track bar with bends to clear the diff, and make everything fit & work together (even if that means cutting a notch in the frame).
Alternatively, the easiest path is to go back to the stock knuckles, Currie or stock drag-link and V8 ZJ or Currie tie-rod with stock pitman arm. All your problems will go away.
Sounds like a lot more money to fix it. How would I go to normal steering since I've drilled my knuckles out?
as I already stated above, you need to go back to the stock knuckles. you have to figure out how to source a new/used set of knuckles, pitman arm or anything else you modified. you'll need to fix the mess of a track bar you have as well.Sounds like a lot more money to fix it. How would I go to normal steering since I've drilled my knuckles out?
Well it looks like I have inherited this issue from Adam. I wasn't aware that the problem was as bad as it is. The steering looks beefy, but it does wonder pretty badly at about 55 mph. What parts do I need to start sourcing to change it back to a stock set up? Leaving the OTK looks like a little more work than I am comfortable with. Thanks in advance for the help guys!
You just need new knuckles and to swap over all the brake components to them. Id be worried that there is some play in your joints causing the wander. Id do a dry steer test to make sure there Is no play at any of the heims.Well it looks like I have inherited this issue from Adam. I wasn't aware that the problem was as bad as it is. The steering looks beefy, but it does wonder pretty badly at about 55 mph. What parts do I need to start sourcing to change it back to a stock set up? Leaving the OTK looks like a little more work than I am comfortable with. Thanks in advance for the help guys!
There really shouldn't be. If I was told correctly all of this stuff is brand new. I have heard that castor angle might make it wander as well, but I wouldn't know how to begin checking that. I will do a dry steer test and see what is going on there.
I have the same OTK steering and I did a little test on the highway today on a nice long straight stretch of road. As a side note, I do have bump steer because my draglink and trackbar are not parallel.There really shouldn't be. If I was told correctly all of this stuff is brand new. I have heard that castor angle might make it wander as well, but I wouldn't know how to begin checking that. I will do a dry steer test and see what is going on there.
Going 65-70 MPH, I centered my steering wheel as best I could and then I let go keeping my hands close by while maintaining the same amount of RPM. I watched as my steering wheel would jerk right and left, little at a time as I hit different bumps. However, I kept driving straight regardless of the steering wheel moving. After about 20 seconds with no hands on the wheel, the jeep started to slowly glide over toward the right side lines. That whole 20 seconds I was going 70 MPH while staying in lane, thats good enough for me. I can even say that maybe I would still be going straight if it wasn't for other factors like wind.
Now I don't know how severe your wandering is, but if you have any play at all anywhere on your steering then you will wander.
Panhard Kit - RuffStuff Specialties
Josh, when I called ruffstuff about the problem they told me to buy this to fix the angles of the trackbar and drag link.
The new swaybar links can be purchased from Blackmagic brakes.
Josh, when I called ruffstuff about the problem they told me to buy this to fix the angles of the trackbar and drag link.
The new swaybar links can be purchased from Blackmagic brakes.
That is the exact kit I am using for my axle swap this weekend.Panhard Kit - RuffStuff Specialties
Josh, when I called ruffstuff about the problem they told me to buy this to fix the angles of the trackbar and drag link.
The new swaybar links can be purchased from Blackmagic brakes.
Well, with the possibility of having to move spring perches and stuff like that, I think I will just change it back to factory. Mine has a bit more wander than the other guy has. It is ok under 55 or so, but kind of rough at 65. 70 isn't really an option for a 2.5 with 33's!! I will check caster and put a sway bar back on it and see what that does. If no change, stock parts going back on.
Id first put the swaybars on and then check your caster. You should have no wander issues as long as your joints arent worn out.Well, with the possibility of having to move spring perches and stuff like that, I think I will just change it back to factory. Mine has a bit more wander than the other guy has. It is ok under 55 or so, but kind of rough at 65. 70 isn't really an option for a 2.5 with 33's!! I will check caster and put a sway bar back on it and see what that does. If no change, stock parts going back on.
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