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The jeep I just traded in, with like 14k on it, had the beginnings of this too. Made me mad so I traded it in. ;) Just kiddin...but it really did.
 

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Oh yea, you did mention that. Did they test drive it?
No they didn't. They wouldn't have noticed anything anyway - it wasn't bad yet. The only reason I knew was because my SS relocation bracket was loose so I kept feeling a clunk in the wheel so the guys were checking it out & noticed the slop with the tb holes.
 

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What do you call "turning easily"? I'm 6' 4" and 275#, so my "easily" isn't always the same as a little guy's "easily."
 

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Go with the Poly bracket that Frshmt mentioned in your other thread.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
SilverSport said:
Go with the Poly bracket that Frshmt mentioned in your other thread.
Can you answer that question ?

Should the bolt and nut turn easily even though its torqued to 125 ?

edit:
i just read some engineering mojo about torque and bolts. Made little sense to my dumb ass lol
Something like once a bolt is torqued its like a spring- stretches and clamps whatever it's tightened up against. So a bolt is no good after removal because its stretched out and won't hold anymore.
Make sense ? That's what I thought rofl
 

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Torque bolts are designed to stretch ever so slightly and therefore should not be used.

Can you run the nut all the way down the bolt by hand? It could be a worn out locking nut.
 

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that's technically correct. A bolt does stretch when torque is applied to it. That torque value factors the bolts "stretch". Obviously there are many factors, but that's how they get the torque tables for bolts. It's a function on the yield strength of the bolt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Kelsey73 said:
that's technically correct. A bolt does stretch when torque is applied to it. That torque value factors the bolts "stretch". Obviously there are many factors, but that's how they get the torque tables for bolts. It's a function on the yield strength of the bolt.
So Basically one maybe twice (torqued )More and the bolt should be replaced ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Frshmt said:
Torque bolts are designed to stretch ever so slightly and therefore should not be used.

Can you run the nut all the way down the bolt by hand? It could be a worn out locking nut.
No the nut still grabs. Maybe I should try replacing the nut or use a lock washer ?

Or am I getting a false 125. I'm thinking I should not be able to turn the bolts.
It's like it's torqued to 125 but not holding the mount at 125.
 

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Can you answer that question ?

Should the bolt and nut turn easily even though its torqued to 125 ?

edit:
i just read some engineering mojo about torque and bolts. Made little sense to my dumb ass lol
Something like once a bolt is torqued its like a spring- stretches and clamps whatever it's tightened up against. So a bolt is no good after removal because its stretched out and won't hold anymore.
Make sense ? That's what I thought rofl

For the average person using a 1/2" drive breaker bar and socket, it should take some effort to turn the bolt if it is torqued to 125 ft lbs.

Are the washers under the bolt head and nut soft or hard?

The engineering info you read is correct. However, it takes much more force to stretch a Grade 8 or 9 bolt compared to a Grade 5 for example.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
SilverSport said:
For the average person using a 1/2" drive breaker bar and socket, it should take some effort to turn the bolt if it is torqued to 125 ft lbs.

Are the washers under the bolt head and nut soft or hard?
When the other end is held with a box wrench or whatever it's tight.
I'm using the poly bolt kit.

Got me thinking. What if I use a thinner washer. Maybe grab a new run of threads ?
 

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So Basically one maybe twice (torqued )More and the bolt should be replaced ?
In a perfect world yes, but these aren't killer torque values for this size of bolt. If you've done it 20 times I'd replace it, but that's just me.

I'm hoping some of the engineers on this forum will chime in. It's been a few years since I was in school and I don't use this everyday.
 

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As long as the threads are intact, a thinner washer isn't necessary. Are you using an el cheapo torque wrench?
 
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