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Discussion Starter #1
Have you ever used the vacuum kits to refill TJ radiators???

I had my '05 4.0L apart – Valve Covers, plugs, belts, hoses, Coolant refill, new caps thermostat, new thermostat housing, etc….

Everything ran great, 40+ miles… But I wanted to flush coolant a couple times.
So the next day I drained it. Ran it for a few minutes then drained again. The radiator had pressure but wasn’t hot and didn’t spray. Drained it again, refilled radiator, pumped out overflow tank, and refilled overflow tank. Drove it for less than 1 mile and temp was at 210… Then over 5 seconds, the temp goes from 205 ish to pegged RED. Shut down, let sit for 10 minutes. Started up and it ran fin for 0.5miles. Started out OK again at 205 for 20 seconds then BOOM pegged red again in under 5 seconds..

No sign of issues with Water pump. Free spinning and no weeping. Everything is tight

I have FSM and they only say fill radiator and overflow. They make no notes about bleeding air from heater hose or sensor, nor does it comment on leaving radiator open to let levels drop, burp, and fill.

When it cooled, no additional water was pulled back in from overlfow bottle.

I was thinking air bubbles and using the vacuum filler might work? Wondering if anyone has done that or has info on a "Special TJ way" of refilling radiator.

Thanx
Greg
 

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Welcome to the Forum, from Cave Creek AZ.
Did you flush the overflow bottle? New Radiator cap? Did you elevate the front of your wrangler, while bleeding the air out of the system?
 

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Thanks for the welcome (and the response). Been reading you guys for a while as I prepared to take the plunge into the TJ world.... Been looking forward to this Toy and Time Suck for double digit years!! I hope to learn and be able to help people in the future... For now, it looks like I just have a TON of questions!

I flushed the overflow bottle and installed a new cap.

NO - I did not elevate the front. I didn't do it, because the FSM simply said, "Fill up radiator, put on cap, fill-up overflow to Full".
That is exactly what I did the first time and had no issues. So I didn't change this time... I know some systems have you elevate, some run with CAP off, my 5.3 wants a vacuum pulled and have system suck in coolant, etc.

Sounds like I got lucky the first time and this is an "Elevate (if you can), run with cap off to burp, and fill as levels drop" kind of a deal.

Is it safe to pull a vac if not spec'd out? I'd think that would be faster..
 

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An easy way to vent air from the cooling system is to remove the heater hose from the thermostat housing, then add coolant to the radiator until it overflows from the heater hose nipple. Then reinstall the heater hose and radiator cap, top off the overflow bottle if needed, then close the hood and drive.
 

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Thanks guys. So basically in a nutshell - Vacuum isn't necessary, no "special tricks", and use common sense instead of blindly following FSM!
 

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Thanks guys. So basically in a nutshell - Vacuum isn't necessary, no "special tricks", and use common sense instead of blindly following FSM!
"Common sense" would certainly support the notion that air needs an escape route when coolant is being added to the system.
 

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"Common sense" would certainly support the notion that air needs an escape route when coolant is being added to the system.
HAHA - Yeah I just assumed (and you know what happens there) that if it had to filled a special way or run elevated with cap off, the FSM would have done a better job than "Fill and go". I was wrong. Not the first time and certainly not the last.....
 

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"Fill and go" is not an accurate description of the procedure specified in the FSM.

STANDARD PROCEDURE—COOLING SYSTEM -

REFILLING

(1) Tighten the radiator draincock and the cylinder

block drain plug(s).

(2) Fill system using a 50/50 mixture of water and

antifreeze. Fill the radiator to the top and install the

radiator cap. Add sufficient coolant to the reserve/

overflow tank to raise the level to the FULL mark.

(3) Operate the engine with both the radiator cap

and reserve/overflow tank cap in place. After the

engine has reached the normal operating temperature,

shut the engine off and allow it to cool.

(4) Add coolant to the reserve/overflow tank as

necessary. Only add coolant when the engine is

cold.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well, they never had the heater hose off when filling rad, they never ran it without the cap, didn't suggest placing on angle. Fill rad, fill overflow, put cap on, and run, topping off overflow as needed. As close to fill and go as it gets. That pretty much suggests no manual bleeding and the system should take care of itself venting out overflow. I couldn't get to temp for more than a few seconds before the cluster lit up like a Christmas tree! To top it off, that is is exactly what I did after the first drain and refill with no issues. My first thought went to other issues, which is why I am happy to hear you are doing the normal steps we all do, filling in the gaps of the FSM. Appreciate the confirmation
 

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Welcome, Greg.
I'm late to the discussion, but I would say a majority of us TJers use Zerex G-05 mixed 50/50 with distilled water after repeated flushing with distilled water.
I also fill on a slope and squeeze hoses. The FSM isn't perfect.
 

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Welcome, Greg.
I'm late to the discussion, but I would say a majority of us TJers use Zerex G-05 mixed 50/50 with distilled water after repeated flushing with distilled water.
I also fill on a slope and squeeze hoses. The FSM isn't perfect.
So...what is your final concentration when the 50/50 solution mixes with several quarts of trapped flushing water?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Kill 2 birds here.... G-05 50-50 as well after distilled water flushing. You can guess pretty close what is in the block based on how much comes out of the drain cock. For the record I was getting about 4.5 - 5 quarts out of radiator and coolant bottle. Basic algebra gets you darn close to 50:50 using straight AF, then use a hydrometer (that will actually work with HOAT) to fine tune.
It isn't so much what to use, it was about bleeding. I did no bleeding (FSM didn't recommend any) on my first drain and refill with ZERO issues and 30+ miles. 2nd drain and refill was a mess. Curious if others were/had to and if any were using vacuum as recommended on vehicles where the radiator or coolant sits lower than engine highpoint.

Sounds like standard common-sense raise engine, possible pop heater hose to fill radiator and run with no cap should clear it up as the 4.0 isn't intended to clear out the bubbles on its own. I kind of panicked on my first post because I literally did nothing to bleed and it worked fine. They went to hell on 2nd round!

So glad the group here has decades of knowledge. No use doing stuff that hasn't worked (or even cause more problems - eg using a vacuum) when so many people know what does work.
 

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Yup, simple math.
Can you show your calculations?

For the record I was getting about 4.5 - 5 quarts out of radiator and coolant bottle. Basic algebra gets you darn close to 50:50 using straight AF, then use a hydrometer (that will actually work with HOAT) to fine tune.
Then that would mean that refilling with 50/50 would result in an unacceptable 25/75 final concentration.
 

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[QUOTE="tangofox007]Then that would mean that refilling with 50/50 would result in an unacceptable 25/75 final concentration.[/QUOTE]
The OP specifically said "straight AF," not 50/50 pre-mix.
As for calculations, none needed.

If you mix 5 quarts of a 0% concentration solution (estimated residual volume of water) with another 5 quarts of 100% concentration solution (full strength coolant), you arrive at 10 quarts of 50% concentration. Not exactly a brain buster.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
[QUOTE="tangofox007]Then that would mean that refilling with 50/50 would result in an unacceptable 25/75 final concentration.
The OP specifically said "straight AF," not 50/50 pre-mix.
As for calculations, none needed.

If you mix 5 quarts of a 0% concentration solution (estimated residual volume of water) with another 5 quarts of 100% concentration solution (full strength coolant), you arrive at 10 quarts of 50% concentration. Not exactly a brain buster.
[/QUOTE]
Bingo. You know total in system. You know how much you took out. Which means you know what is left in there. Add undiluted antifreeze equal to what is in system, then top off with equal parts AF and distilled water.
 

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[
The OP specifically said "straight AF," not 50/50 pre-mix.
In that case, what possessed you to come along and pronounce that "a majority us of TJers" use a 50/50 mix? A "50/50 mix" and "straight AF" are not synonyms in any universe that I am aware of. Maybe it all boils down to the meaning of the word "use."

I'm late to the discussion, but I would say a majority of us TJers use Zerex G-05 mixed 50/50 with distilled water after repeated flushing with distilled water.
 

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Could be issue with impeller failure on water pump
Or
Thermostat not opening

But first insure full and good cap on radiator


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