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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
92 YJ - 2.5L Water pump was shot. Replaced the water pump and thermostat. Engine is not maxing out in temp. but does seem to run hotter than it used to (used to hang at 200/210).

Have followed a number of threads that talk about pump rotation direction and how it relates to a v-belt or a sepentine belt.

I have a serpentine belt - both the fan and the water pump rotate counter-clockwise when standing in front of the radiator. I reinstalled the belt exactly as I removed it (drew a diagram since the factory label is long gone).

From what I read, counter-clockwise is the correct configuration for this model, and possibly they sold me the wrong pump. Before I pull this thing apart to check the pump - can anyone tell me if this is the correct config.?
 

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This is the label on mine
 

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make sure there's no air in the line and that you have enough fluid. i know sounds simple but i've done a fluid change before and filled the radiator to the top twice with fluid and drove it around for a bit. it ended up overheating a little because there still wasnt enough fluid in the system
 

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That looks the same as mine. If I recall, the water pump would have a mark on it indicating reverse rotation
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks 60MJ & Garyk - looks exactly like how I have it installed (less the AC) - I will check the old pump for marks.

Mike 3033 - you may have something there with the air. Have read quite a few others who have stated similar problems with air. I will attempt to burp the thing tonight when I get home and see if it improves.

Thanks all - I'll let you know how I make out!
 

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They do have two pumps and you need the one stamped with a R.
you may of got a bad thermostat ( it would not be the first one )
i would go buy a fail safe thermostat to have the peace of mind .
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Follow up to last nights adventure. Attempted to burp the system, cold engine running - rad cap off - added some coolant (didn't take much though). I let it warm up to mid-100's then took it for a run. Temp climbed right up to about 220 and hung for a bit (normal was 210 before). Did get it to climb higher here and there (climbing hills/lower gears)... would go to maybe 245/250 for a minute or so and then start dropping back to 220 (like the stat opened). Didn't overheat in the red at all but would occasionally go to 245/250 while on the flat at a constant speed and then drop again. I did replace the stat with a "High Performance" when I put in the new pump. After about a 30-40 minute run around the valley I let it idle in the driveway and it stayed right at 220 rock solid. After shutting down I checked hoses... look fine - top hose nice and warm - bottom hose cold "ish". Have flushed Rad - water ran through it at about the same speed it was going in.

Here's the kicker - I just bought this in Aug., previous owner had it about 1-1/2 years. Sold as a 92..... registered as a 92. Last night I noticed the owners manual in it is a 90.... Checked out the Advance Auto site where I bought the pump.... I bought a GMB 110-1090 (new) nothing on the box or the site mentions reverse rotation (Old pump does have a R on blades). While on the site I changed the vehicle spec to a 90 w/2.5L and it says that pump is wrong. When I look up the right pump..... It calls for a GMB 110-1060 and states it is for a serpentine belt and reverse rotation. I think the next step is to stop at A-Auto and see if the 110-1090 is marked for reverse rotation?

Is it possible that it is registered for the wrong year? I may have a 90? or I may have a 90 motor if it's been replaced? Anyone know how to tell/where to look for ID?

Love this forum so far!! Everyone is so helpful and informative!! Thank you!!
 

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tell me your vin and i will tell ya what year the body is.
tell me the engine code numbers and i will tell ya what year the motor is.
i still think you have a bad thermostat if it did not over heat before you
did the work.
also if you got up to 250 for long bad stuff could happen.
 

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The lower hose is the return hose, it should be the same temp as the top one at idle. 2 things to check, take out the thermostat and boil it in the kitchen, if it opens up then it's fine. Then check the water pump; be sure that you Goto www.jeep.com and goto contact us, use the email, in the subject line be sure to say request build sheet. Put the vin in the body and wait for their response. Also call a jeep dealer and get the water pump p/n by giving them the vin, then goto autozone, give them the part number, buy the pump and bolt on the pump. If this doesn't work, autozone has a lone a tool radiator pressure tester. If it holds pressure check your oil for a milky color, run your finger inside the lip of the radiator and check for oil, if it is their you have a blown head gasket and possibly a warped head. If it is not and your not holding pressure, check hoses and clamps and all mating gaskets at the stat housing and water pump.

Very important as well, get a radiator cap from the dealership, I can't stress enough that you have to have pressure at the right level to keep the Amc engines running at proper temp.
 

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If the engine was changed in a shop, their will be a sticker under the hood near the engine indicating the engine number and shop.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I'll have to get them tonight at home.

I did run to Advance Auto and check out the Wpump I got and it is the same exact pump as I took off.... Same R on fins...fins go the same direction.

Suggestion from them was air... told me there should be a relief valve on the system that you can open and release air from the cooling system? Said it could also be a head gasket but was more likely air since it doesn't go into the red and mostly stays at 220....

I put in a Mr.Gasket high performance - 195* I guess an air bubble could cause the fluctuation?

Still chasing the ghost.
 

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ScorpioScotty said:
I'll have to get them tonight at home.

I did run to Advance Auto and check out the Wpump I got and it is the same exact pump as I took off.... Same R on fins...fins go the same direction.

Suggestion from them was air... told me there should be a relief valve on the system that you can open and release air from the cooling system? Said it could also be a head gasket but was more likely air since it doesn't go into the red and mostly stays at 220....

I put in a Mr.Gasket high performance - 195* I guess an air bubble could cause the fluctuation?

Still chasing the ghost.
I would suggest a pro flush or google how to do it.
When jeep engines get older they run hotter, the pathways for the antifreeze become corroded and does not allow the heat to soak into the coolant as effectively.

Think of it like a dirty soldering iron compared to a clean one.

mine use to run 220 on average, till I flushed it and changed the cap. Regarding air,the radiators on these have an overflow port on the radiator right by the filler neck which means over time the system burps on it's own unless theirs a Quart or more of fluid missing or overflows the coolant when it gets to hot as to prevent antifreeze from busting gaskets if it does indeed overheat horribly and crests steam..

The 3 core aluminum radiator sold by quadratech will drop the heat by 40-60 degrees . if you can find an old electric radiator fan from a mercury sable and wire it into the ignition, that helps Alot as well. I also put an oil cooler on mine, helps the temps as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Clutch Fan - Yes
Seems to be working just fine? It's always running.... how would you check it?
 

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fan clutch test
with engine off...lol spin the fan with your hand. it should have a slight drag feeling to it .
if it spins free and easy it is bad.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Tried it - Fan clutch seems to be just as you described (slight drag).
Ran it last night to pick up the oldest (14 mile round trip - country roads)... it was a lot better.... hanging right at 220, when it first warmed up it went to 235 and came right back down but the rest of the trip it stayed right around 220 with maybe a 5 degree swing here and there. Might just be air.

Shadeemry - Did check the vin online.... 92 ... S Style? (not sure what that means). Too cold and dark to get the engine number....yet. Checked the oil and antifreeze for signs of cross contamination (Head)... no signs (Yay). Will keep running and watching. (probably watching and worrying too much)

Thanks all !
 

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i beleave i have the same issue with my 93 yj... where can i find these engine numbers at? i think that i have a non stock engine in my jeep and its a pain in the ass trying to find parts that work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
AMC/Jeep 150 2.5L 4cyl Engines have this number stamped on a machined pad on the right side of the motor - between #3 & #4 cylinder
4.0 6cyl are pretty much the same location...would be right side between #2 & #3
Looked this up today myself - I wasn't sure where they were either. Here is the link for what I found.

http://street2mud.com/webfiles/AMC%20Engine%20codes.pdf
 
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