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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey friends, I've had the torque converter code for a while now, finally took it into the shop to see if it was the wiring, solenoid, or actual torque converter that's not working. The guy hooked up the scanner, took it for a spin, came back and said: "the electrical components are telling the converter to work, but nothing's happening". I said "so the torque converter is not working?" He said: "well we can't tell... We'll need to take the whole thing apart... $1200." I think this sounds slightly suspect. Any thoughts? The transmission works fine other than not locking up the converter on the highway...
This forum is awesome! Some day I hope I'll be able to contribute not just ask for help!! :redface:
 

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Very suspect. Take it somewhere else and get another opinion. It should cost nothing to completely diagnose and estimate repairs. Something tells me you went to Midas, or some other hold-em-n-****-em outfit. Head to a dealership instead and see what they say before you open your wallet.
 

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Definately get another opinion but not nescessarily from the stealership. I'd go to an actual highly reputable transmission shop. The stealership will make $1200 look cheap.
 

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They guy only looked at his scanner? That makes as much sense as saying you need a heart operation bypass because you won't eat at McDonalds.


First go under it and find the connector on the trans, make sure it's on tight.

And - You can do this with the help of a FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL:

You or a trans shop can unhook the connector and measure the lock-up solenoids resistance from the outside, and power the solenoid by jumpering 12 volts to it. I think you can even pull out the solenoid without removing the trans, but not sure.

The FSM will have a step by step diagnosis AND if needed, the repair procedure. If nothing else, what you'll learn from it you'll be able to tell if a shop is being honest.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the advice, guys! My FSM is supposed to arrive in the mail any day now, so I'll wait and follow that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
paulj66 said:
What was the final resolution to this transmission issue?
Well, it's still ongoing- so first observation is that it is nothing vital! (Gas mileage takes a hit though).

I bought a new TCC solenoid but broke it during install- so gonna try it all over again soon. Getting to know the 32 RH though.

Sorry if you we're hoping for more help. Let me know if you have questions- I have taken the valve body off twice now already!
 

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I know this is an old thread, but was there any resolution here?

I just started getting the code, but I think my TC is still locking up based on the tach reactions on the highway.
 

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I have the same issue and the trans shop said the same except the price in socal is $800 to replace the tc. I am considering two other options:
1. swap for a manual with another who wants the auto = saves $ on parts
2. replace with this trans and hope for the best
42RLE Transmission For Sale
The price is great but the shipping might over run the budget.
My research indicates that the 42rle is hit or miss regarding reliability and longevity.
 

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I have the same issue and the trans shop said the same except the price in socal is $800 to replace the tc. I am considering two other options:
1. swap for a manual with another who wants the auto = saves $ on parts
2. replace with this trans and hope for the best
42RLE Transmission For Sale
The price is great but the shipping might over run the budget.
My research indicates that the 42rle is hit or miss regarding reliability and longevity.

I think I figured mine out, I recently bought the Jeep, it has 170K on it and the trans fluid was a little dirty so I changed it. I read that the trans fluid level could affect this condition and set this code so I double checked my fluid level and it was just a little low. I added less than 1/4 of a quart and no more light. I'll keep you posted if it comes back, but for now it's all good and seems to be functioning well.
 

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I'm having the same issue right now. My transmission was acting a little weird but I changed the fluid and cleared the code but it came back on and everything seems fine. The shop also said it was fine so I'm not realy sure what's wrong.
 

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Replacing the TC resolved my issue and now I have a bunch of clutch parts I will never use. I am in year three after replacing the TC and I am glad I kept the auto because I drive in socal traffic.

I go to Glamis and the auto works great in the dunes.
 

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same problem

I think I figured mine out, I recently bought the Jeep, it has 170K on it and the trans fluid was a little dirty so I changed it. I read that the trans fluid level could affect this condition and set this code so I double checked my fluid level and it was just a little low. I added less than 1/4 of a quart and no more light. I'll keep you posted if it comes back, but for now it's all good and seems to be functioning well.

I had the same problem. Showing codes P0700 and P0740. Added less than 1/4 qt of fluid and not seeing the engine light anymore.
 

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I'm throwing a P0740 code now "Torque Converter Clutch Circuit/Open. Went to a local, reputable guy and we took it out for a spin with his laptop hooked up to it. I'm not a mechanic but it was explained to me that when you are driving at a fairly consistent rate your transmission "locks" at that speed and you need to either give it a bit more gas or let off significantly for it to unlock. That way it is running consistently and maximizes gas mileage. Mine would lock and unlock like it should - and then it just starts refusing to lock. Shouldn't be a big deal (except for mileage) but it makes me worry that other solenoids are going to start misbehaving. Likely will change out the transmission solenoid pack in the next week or two.
 

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I'm throwing a P0740 code now "Torque Converter Clutch Circuit/Open. Went to a local, reputable guy and we took it out for a spin with his laptop hooked up to it. I'm not a mechanic but it was explained to me that when you are driving at a fairly consistent rate your transmission "locks" at that speed and you need to either give it a bit more gas or let off significantly for it to unlock. That way it is running consistently and maximizes gas mileage. Mine would lock and unlock like it should - and then it just starts refusing to lock. Shouldn't be a big deal (except for mileage) but it makes me worry that other solenoids are going to start misbehaving. Likely will change out the transmission solenoid pack in the next week or two.
Welcome to the Forum.
 

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2011 JKU, 3.8L 42RLE w/5:13's
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P0740 code again...

Hi Guys,
Been following this thread since last summer when i first saw this code. I dropped the pan, replaced the filter and topped off the fluid. The code went away. The code came back within a month so I brought it to the shop for a flush and told them to flush it until it runs red- 24 quarts later, it runs red. (Yeah, that's 9 qts more than the typical flush calls for, and wasn't cheap)
So for 4 months I'm good...and then the code comes back.
Today I'm going to check the connector- if I can determine where it is. I know I should have done this at the time, but didn't. Can I check the wires for continuity? What about voltage? I have no idea where these wires run or how to jump for 12V... Is the best advice to bring it to a shop for diagnosis? My JK has 180k miles and I have a significant amount of overlanding upgrades, so I will be keeping it vs. trading it out.
Any advice from others who've been here would be outstanding:)
Bill
 

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2011 JKU, 3.8L 42RLE w/5:13's
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This thread was sorta-helpful. I will tell you my story with the code ended differently than a lot of folks say it will. Many say that you can simply replace the TCC...that they're problematic and easily fail, etc.. While I'm sure there are some that are "forever-fixed" this way, there aren't any follow-ups to the replacement, and the fact of the matter is, once there's organic matter floating around from either clutches or converter lock-up you're looking at a new tranny, and stop throwing good money after bad. Frankly, it's widely known the 42RLE tranny is a bad one, and aside from a motor swap, you're stuck with it. Yeah, there are ways to adapt....no thanks. My advice, diagnose early, do your maintenance and rule out possibilities but look early for a new tranny. A reman is a "redo" and you're getting OEM internals which failed the first go 'round. I sought out and found a rebuilt- upgraded internals, fully rebuilt, with aftermarket parts engineered to replace the failed factory cheapo's and have been running strong for more than 6 mos with not even a hiccup. On the first day I installed a plate/fin tranny cooler and an Autometer gauge to monitor it, and my Jeep retained the 42RLE, only better. Best of luck.
 
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