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Are you meaning different colors? I saw someone on here paint their steering box, drag link/TRE, and track bar red. Looked awful. I think they were trying to make it look "aftermarket".

If you are going for black, go for it. I bought an axle that was painted by the PO, I think he used rustoleum. A year later under my rig as a DD and it still looks good.
 

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How many people have painted things on their jeep. I'm just curious how it looks. Like axles and engines.
I have been painting under, in, outside, around, parts, and more of vehicles for decades. As anyone who's done any quality painting, OF ANYTHING knows, it's in the prep that really counts. As in, all surfaces must be thoroughly prepped by some for of cleaning/wire brushing/sanding/steam cleaned/Lacquer thinner/Alcohol and or whatever method or chemical you choose, that will leave a clean, oil free, no residue surface to paint.

Then, just about any semi-decent quality of automotive paint will do. There are a zillion brands/types/epoxies/urethanes/enamels/lacquers to choose from.

Then, there's the finish color/style/brightness/dullness/flat black/semi-flat black/gloss black to choose from too.

A good rule of thumb for undercarriage/frame/axle/metal parts is, for a more factory/higher end production look, you want Semi-flat black as an end finish.

Gloss black looks CHEAP and tinny. Flat black looks primered. Semi-flat black obviously is in the middle and, leaves a more desired, TECHNICAL look to whatever it's applied on. Most engine compartments/radiator support cores, factory axle housings, and many, many other undercarriage parts are semi-flat black from the factory.

The trick is, get your component, no matter what it is, as clean as you can get it within your skills and cleaning supplies will limit you to. Then, prep it with either Lacquer thinner or, Alcohol as neither will leave any form of residue. A primer of some sort is in reality, needed if, your project has been brought back to, or started with bare metal. A primer is a "go-between" in that, it will adhere to bare metal parts much better than top coat will and, it will allow for the top coat to adhere to it.

If you're intended component is not showing or, is not bare metal, you'll most likely be fine with as stated, a really good cleaning and prepping, then as good of a quality paint as you can afford.

"Rattle can" or, regular spray cans from Home Depot will work but, the quality of paint is at the bottom of the scale in terms of quality protection and adherence. Paint that you have to purchase from a paint supplies store like Frazee's, Sherwin Williams, and more, are much more highly developed to be more enduring, element resisting, abrasion resistant, and more. But, those will also be considerably more expensive.

Not only that, but, you'll more than likely need specialty tools to apply it like air compressors and spray guns etc. I prefer the latter even though it's a bit more expensive due to the fact that the quality of the paint(s) are much higher and, drying factors are installed into the paints to limit drying time, unlike rattle can paints. But, I've got all that paint stuff, 1/2 dozen guns, larger compressor, and power sanders and all that stuff.

It's a fun thing for me but, prep is always a PAIN!
Scott
 

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If you play in the rocks, Krylon is your friend. Rock sliders, bumpers, wheels, axles, fender liners have all seen their share of rattle can paint on mine.
 

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I paint everything all the time. If I work on it, it gets paint. If I work around it, it gets paint. My 91 yj is absolutely 100 percent rust free and clean and painted. I may drive it like I stole it, wheel it like I want to kill it, but when it gets home I winch it up a tree in my yard pressure wash and touch it up. If I ever have a leak, it's easy to find and fix, and paint some more. Bet there are 2 rattle cans of semi black in the back right now.
 

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I usually paint my skids, axles, steering linkages and touch up the frame if it has scratches every winter. Plus it has never been driven in the winter since new. I beat it on the rocks, but my rig looks like it came off the show room yesterday when you crawl underneath it (except for the nicely painted dents in the skid plates).
 

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I paint everything all the time. If I work on it, it gets paint. If I work around it, it gets paint. My 91 yj is absolutely 100 percent rust free and clean and painted. I may drive it like I stole it, wheel it like I want to kill it, but when it gets home I winch it up a tree in my yard pressure wash and touch it up. If I ever have a leak, it's easy to find and fix, and paint some more. Bet there are 2 rattle cans of semi black in the back right now.
Brilliant idea


Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk
 

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Mine came with some painted steering components and some SUPER SICK (painted) ANGRY EYES!

...wasn't long before I repainted everything black and replaced the headlights with some old school Hellas :) Although I did keep my front diff cover painted red, thought it looked good when it was the only red item down there.

But the beauty of it is it's your jeep and you get to customize it however you'd like. I just prefer a mostly blacked out rig with a couple hints of color.
 

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I'm with ov yj. I paint everything all the time under my jeep. I clean and paint around anything I work on. My jeep had new front fenders installed when I got it. They took all the under hood accessories off, then reinstalled them rusty, not only does it look like a poor job, but the rust on the brackets transfers to the fenders as surface rust. It's so easy to clean treat and turn black, then it looks good.
 

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My Dirtworx rear bumper just shipped and budget says I have to spray bomb it.

I know I will need a metal primer but what brand seems to be the best?

I am also thinking about using black hammered paint on it just not sure if that's the way I want to go. Either way I'm going black.
 
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