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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,

I was wondering if anyone here has any experience with using Por-15 to paint up and seal up rust on their frame and underneath. I just bought a can to clean my jeep up, but do I really need their metal prep stuff to prep it? My frame is about 60% black spray paint and 40% rusted metal where the paint flaked off at the moment. Any advice on prepping and painting would be greatly appreciated.
 

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I didn't use their metal prep on the frame, but I did use hd degreaser then sanded wire wheel'd or wire brushed every last bit of anything loose and removable, then blasted it hard with high pressure washer......unless your committed to removing every last speck of orange its just encapsulating it and stunting its progress, how long its lasts directly depends on your prep
 

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I sprayed my frame a while back to prevent it from getting any worse and of course make it look better. At first I used some cheap undercoating spray that was like 3 dollars a can. Almost all of it came off within the first week of it just sitting outside. After doing some research, I bought some Eastwood Rust Encapsulator which was $10 on sale and it was totally worth it. Its been on for 2 months now driving almost everyday and it has not flaked off at all like the cheap stuff. First you will want to use a flat head screw driver to remove any flaky rust from the frame and then use a wire brush after that. Finish up with some spray paint designed to fight against rust and your done. I heard por 15 is good stuff too but Eastwood's Rust Encapsator has worked great for me!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the replies guys. Just to clarify, as long as the surface is clean it does okay sticking to surfaces even if its older paint? I'll probably post some before and after pictures of the job. Also will probably order their special topcoat spray to keep the sun from breaking it down.
 

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Yes, makes sure there is no flaking of rust or paint and remove any dust or debris that was created during the removal process.
 

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I had a previous application of what also looked to be POR to me, but it was old and around those holes was starting to show bits of rust returning, 90% of my frame was fine but I re-double coated the whole thing, made dam sure it was clean , kept wet and drying rag next to me as I went through. no grease or oil of any kind. don't leave no rust bubbles, as long as that paint is bonded well , the new coating should adhere..........advise u to use a cup don't contaminate your can, and buy like 10 them cheapo brushes so u can just toss um if u plan on doing in stages.... safety glasses if your under it and rubber gloves, craps hard to get off your skin
 

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I had a previous application of what also looked to be POR to me, but it was old and around those holes was starting to show bits of rust returning, 90% of my frame was fine but I re-double coated the whole thing, made dam sure it was clean , kept wet and drying rag next to me as I went through. no grease or oil of any kind. don't leave no rust bubbles, as long as that paint is bonded well , the new coating should adhere..........advise u to use a cup don't contaminate your can, and buy like 10 them cheapo brushes so u can just toss um if u plan on doing in stages.... safety glasses if your under it and rubber gloves, craps hard to get off your skin
If the rust came back, then its not POR. I've been using the stuff for years and if you follow the instructions, its pretty bullet proof.

Paint Over Rust (POR) is designed to chemically bond with surface rust. Wire brush it down a bit, hit it with brake cleaner or acetone, wipe it off, let it dry and and paint it. You can spray it but the stuff seems to self level anyway and the cheaper the brush the better because it is toast after an application session. I would not paint it on clean steal without treating with metal ready.

Realize this stuff is not UV (the sun) proof and will gray over time if exposed.

Make sure you transfer what you need to a different container and then put some press and seal or Saran Wrap under the lid on the main container or you will come out and find it is solid. Normally if this happens there is liquid under the solid layer and you can salvage some. Think about your surface area when you purchase because this jive is expensive.

Stuff is tough as nails and can be over coated. Don't bother trying to wash it off your skin, it will be there for a week or two minimum. Spilled some in my lap..... :censored:
 

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The product is fantastic over bare or rusty metal. I never had luck painting over any existing paint, it always peeled in those areas. It does not matter if you brush or spray, it will smooth itself and usually look pretty good. I cannot stress enough, as stated previously, that POR will fade when exposed to sunlight and not look very nice. It will still protect. If protection is your goal and you are happy with anything but rust for appearance then just POR will be great for you. If long term appearance is important then you can apply topcoat over it as it is curing. If you wait for it to completely cure, you will have to use their primer before top coating.
I had better experience with the Rust Encapsulator overall. It is easy to use and touch up when it gets scratched. Although you would be hard pressed to ever scratch through POR.
 

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Por-15 doesn't make the "metal-ready" like they used to... the old stuff, maybe 12 or more years ago, used to come with an environmental impact statement. Maybe they were forced int making it "nicer" for the environment. When you used it on bare rusted (but cleaned up) metal, it would change the color of the rust to many different shades of grey, and it seemed to last forever. These days it doesn't seem to react anywhere close to the same way it used to, as if it weren't converting all the rust underneath to a non-rusting material like before. Anyone experience this? Maybe they don't make it like they used to...
 

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Definitely wire brush your frame... Also be careful to not get any on your skin or anything you don't want the paint to be on!! It will not come off easy at all!!
 

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I just did my whole rear end of my LJ (frame and underbody). It doesn't like to stick to painted surfaces as mentioned above so I wire wheeled as much of the paint as I could, let it sit a few days then hit with metal prep. Its like glue to rust.

The biggest thing you need to make sure is it is grease and dirt free. Por15 hates grease it runs away from it. Just to test I painted a greasy section and it didn't even stick.
 
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