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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am preparing for what I may need if I end up with a TJ that has not been lifted, and also if I end up with one that isn't lifted properly. I have searched and investigated and I am still left with a few questions. Here is what I plan to get initially:

~ Zone 4" susp lift (includes transfer case drop from what I understand)
~ MML kit
~ Front and rear adjustable trackbars
~ SYE
~ Quick disconnect sway bar end links (front and rear)
~ Drop pitman arm

1st question: Am I missing anything crucial right away?

2nd question: Is all of this correct?

3rd question: I have read about a bracket that won't line up in the rear if I use an adjustable track bar and a SYE. Can someone give me some more insight to this and what I would need to do/buy to correct this?
 

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I am preparing for what I may need if I end up with a TJ that has not been lifted, and also if I end up with one that isn't lifted properly. I have searched and investigated and I am still left with a few questions. Here is what I plan to get initially:

~ Zone 4" susp lift (includes transfer case drop from what I understand)
~ MML kit
~ Front and rear adjustable trackbars
~ SYE
~ Quick disconnect sway bar end links (front and rear)

1st question: Am I missing anything crucial right away?

2nd question: Is all of this correct?

3rd question: I have read about a bracket that won't line up in the rear if I use an adjustable track bar and a SYE. Can someone give me some more insight to this and what I would need to do/buy to correct this?
The Zone 4" suspension lift comes with a transfer case drop and fixed lower control arms (which is the case for all economy 4" suspension lifts). The purpose of the t-case drop is to take care of drive line vibrations caused by the steeper angle of the short drive shaft caused by lifting the Jeep 4". The problem with the t-case drops is that you are giving back half your lift height by lowering the center and it is counter productive.

An sye basically allows you to run a longer drive shaft which eliminates the need for the transfer case drop. Along with an sye, you will need a double cardan drive shaft, and at least upper rear adjustable control arms (to adjust your pinion angle). I would highly recommend lower adjustable control arms as well, both in the back and front to help center your axles, and to get id of the fixed arms supplied with the kit. The only adjustable ca's worth buying will either have johnny joints, or Duroflex joints.

There are only three adjustable track bars worth buying, Metalcloak, Currie, or JKS. Metalcloak has the best clearance for the least $'s, I personally am a fan of, and run a Currie in the front. JKS would be my last pick of the three and is generally more $'s. If you use an adjustable track bar in the rear, you generally don't need the relocation bracket.

Another way to go, if you don't want to deal with all that expense, and you want 4" of lift, is the Zone 4.25 combo lift. It's a 3" suspension lift and 1.25" body lift. No t-case drop, no sye. It's a great idea to add a Metalcloak front adjustable track bar, but you don't absolutely have to.

Here's a basic list of what it takes to do a 3.5"-4" suspension lift (YMMV)

3.5”-4”

Springs
Shocks
Bumpstop/extensions
Front Sway bar end links or Anti-rock
Rear Sway bar end links
Rear track bar bracket Adjustable rear track bar - recommended
Front adjustable track bar – recommended, or axle hole re-drilled
Extended brake lines
Minimum of extended lower control arms – adjustable control arms - recommended
Slip yoke eliminator (sye) and double carden drive shaft - recommended, or large transfer case drop
Transfer case shift bracket or Novak shifter if using transfer case drop (not needed with sye)

Parts needed for use with slip yoke eliminator:

Slip yoke eliminator
Double carden drive shaft
Rear upper adjustable control arms minimum,
Upper and lower rear adjustable control arms - recommended
Angled rear track bar bracket
 

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drop pitman arm should never be used. neither should rear discos

if you do end up with a 4" SL, and want to use a SYE, you'll also need a new DC drive shaft and adj arms, but that'll do away with the TC drop.it does add an extra $1k to the project though.

not sure what bracket you are talking about in #3

many people go with the zone 4.25" combo to avoid that extra cost and the TC drop
 

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Dang these guys beat me to it. Everything I was going to say. All good info though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So what I am seeing is the 4.25" combo kit is absolutely the way to go? I'm not sure why I had convinced myself otherwise. I think I was just in the mindset that the combo set was a way to [email protected]$$ it. Is that not the case?
 

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it is a way to half ass it, per say, but not in a bad way, just a much much more economical way.

my jeep has atleast double what i've put into the gf's, and her tj on 33's with a zone combo kit, MC front track bar, and an aussie locker can go pretty much anywhere my rubi on 35's thats tucked can go
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
And I would still want the adjustable front track bar for the 4.25" combo kit, right?

As a side-note, I am not in a position that I can't afford to do it right, but I just don't see the point in spending more than I need to either. Truth be told, the TJ I end up with will see trails, it will see mud, but it won't be pushed to the limit and beaten to death on rocks either. I just want a good, functional Jeep to have fun with, and also to look good when it's not covered in mud. Does that make sense? haha
 

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Yes, still get the adjustable track bar. Metalcloak, currie, JKS, your pick. The metalcloak is $180 I believe
 

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And I would still want the adjustable front track bar for the 4.25" combo kit, right?

As a side-note, I am not in a position that I can't afford to do it right, but I just don't see the point in spending more than I need to either. Truth be told, the TJ I end up with will see trails, it will see mud, but it won't be pushed to the limit and beaten to death on rocks either. I just want a good, functional Jeep to have fun with, and also to look good when it's not covered in mud. Does that make sense? haha
The reason we typically recommend a front adjustable track bar with the zone combo lift (or any 3"-4" lift) is due to the fact that if you use your stock track, it's required that you redrill the hole in the axle end track bar bracket to keep your axle centered. Because the bracket tapers up, you're drilling in a weaker part of the bracket. While it works, it's not the best way, and since the majority of death wobble experiences are due to track bar mounting issues, it just makes good sense to avoid that. Here's a picture of the hole relocation if using a stock track bar. The hole on the left is stock. The right one was redrilled per the installation instructions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yeah, that doesn't leave much meat on that bracket. Adjustable makes sense! Metalcloak comes highly recommended, but do the Currie or JKS have any advantages over it?
 

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Yeah, that doesn't leave much meat on that bracket. Adjustable makes sense! Metalcloak comes highly recommended, but do the Currie or JKS have any advantages over it?
currie uses a JJ on the frame side, which will transfer less vibration than the heim and will last longer, but that also requires more bumpstop extension. and costs $100 more. 2+ years on my MC bar and its still rock solid

MC>JKS
 
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