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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 98 TJ 4cyl. I did some off roading last weekend and my inner pinion bearing busted apart! There was way too much play in the pinion to check preload. A few questions...
1. Do I need to replace the crush sleeve?
2. Is it possible to crush the sleeve with the Jeep up on jack stands without a lift??
3. What do I torque the nut to?
4. Where do I get the nut? Does it have to be the same style as the one off of my Dana 35? Advance, Auto Zone and Napa don't carry the exact one. They all look a lot shorter.
5. What is the cost diffence in the bearings? Obviously the more you pay the better part you (should) get but is it that big of a difference?

I know I should replace both the ring and pinion at this point and maybe all the spider gears and bearings as well but the $$ just isn't there and I need my Jeep back. I just need to know how to get it back on the road SOON!
:facepalm:
 

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If it is the front axle you need to "start" the crush sleeve in a press. Other wise you will just strip the nut and getting a hardened nut is a no no it will just f your pinion. Ask me how I know. Now if its the rear axle that one will crush with the nut. As for torque there is no set number for the nut you get the mesurment by the force it takes to rotate the pinion with no gears. What that numbers is I dont know. When I did my gears I did it by feel.
 

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As for price and bearings, $105 for the carrier bearings, pinion bearings, crush sleeve, nut and seal.
Where you buy is up to you. If low on money go with AutoZone, if got the cash go with Napa.
 

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Are you talking about the rear end? Or front?
I , just this evening finished mine. Same thing.
My new to me 00' tj blew its pinion bearing on the drive home! Lol
Anyway, assuming you have a dana35 also? ,
first thing is to get the pan off and see how bad things are, (btw I did all this in my driveway on jackstands), I got lucky, limped mine home and luckily the ring and pinion, were still ok.
I ordered a full rebuild kit off eBay for $65 shipped to my door in 2 days.
Came with new bearings for the carrier and the pinion, shim kits for both, pinion seal, ring gear bolts, crush sleave, new pinion nut, cover gasket and some pattern compound.
Though I am very mecanicly inclined, this was my first time messing with a rear end outside of normal oil changes.
After reading up on things and watching a bunch of videos it was game on.
I chose to change both pinion bearings, the crush sleeve and the pinion seal. The carriers bearings felt pretty good, and I really didn't wanna mess with re shiming it. So I kept track of everything on disassembly and made sure it all went back in the same way.
The inner bearing race on the pinion is a pain. There are special pullers, but I just ended up cutting mine off with a bench grinder.
Saved the pinion shim behind it which also was reused. Long story short, all is now back together And working well, as far as the pinion preload. The specs in the dana35 manual call for 20-35INCH pounds with NEW bearings.
How this is achieved is by torquing down the nut untill the crush sleeve begins to crush, which tightens up the preload in the pinion bearings.
I had to put roughly 250ft lbs of tq on that nut b4 is began to crush and get tighter.
I held the yoke with a big pipe wrench and a breaker bar against the ground.
So you tighten it, a little, then check the preload tq, and repeat until u have 20-35 inch lbs.
This must be done with either a beam type or dial type INCH lb tq wrench. You put the 1 1/8" socket on and read the tq While your turning it.
Keep in mind if you get the preload to tight, its to late, you can't just back the nut off because the crush sleeve is already crushed to far. So go slow and tighten a little at a time then check.

This all wasn't as hard as I thought it would be.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the help! It is the rear and it is a D35. I guess it's time to get at it! I'll let ya know how it goes....:banghead:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Does the crush sleeve need to be crushed to get the preload torque without the gears in?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ok, the pinion gear is missing a tooth. Does anyone have any spare 4:11 gears laying around they want to sell...give :)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
In/Lb Torque Wrench

:thumb:FYI. If anyone, like me, is pulling their hair out trying to find an Inch Pound torque wrench, I just figured out they are readily available at any bicycle shop. Apparently it's necessary in thier world. I drove all over the place trying to find one today and struck out. I finally came home and looked them up and their they were at every bike shop in town:banghead::facepalm::facepalm:
 

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Speaking of inch pound torque wrench's you need a Beam Type torque wrench to measure pinion rotating torque. A "Click" type will not give you a proper reading.
 

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At this point you are looking at a full rebuild if the pinion is missing teeth. Used gears are junk IMO and not worth their weight. A new set of gears are relatively cheap, it's all the extra stuff and tools that are expensive, and of course the knowledge of how to do it.

Probably your cheapest option is to find a used D35 with the same gear ratio and swapping it in. People will sell D35s dirt cheap, I sold mine for 50$ in perfectly good condition after my axle swap.
 

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Usa standard gears are cheap that's what I put in and they are great. Got mine off ebay front and rear set for 340 so just one set should not be to bad. Just make sure you get the right ratio.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Just bought the set from Summit. 150 bucks, bearing kit for 80. We'll see how it goes from here. Trying to buy a press off craigslist if he'll drop the price a little.
 

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Without the ring gear and diff in yes, the "20-35 inch pounds" is just on the pinion without the drag of the ring gear.
 

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You don't really "need" a press for this job. It would help, but not needed.
Pullers to pull the old races would be a better thing to have lol.
Ended up cutting mine off because I didn't have a puller. Putting the new races, and bearings in isn't that hard. With the pinion, you'll want to put it in the freezer for a few hours or so, that's what I did and my new bearing went on fairly easy with the right improvisin and use of various sockets, pipes, whatever work to gently tap then on.
 
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