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Discussion Starter #1
Hold your laughter to a minimum..I am attempting to wire a set of driving lights to my 2010 JKU...I have all wires run and everything figured out except where to attach the toggle to a constant hot lead (because I would like them to work on demand).

Question #1: How do I locate a constant hot lead?
Question #2 is: How do I locate the factory high beam lead?
 

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A constant lead is best on a JK ran directly off the battery lead. Most of the wiring on a JK is monitored by the computer system and it is best not to tap into any pre-existing wires unless you are only doing it for a relay control. If your going to tap into the high beam wire, make sure to only use it to control a relay only and main power being run through the relay from the battery.
 

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MARGARET, 10-14-51\6-1-12
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Do not tap into the cigarette lighter directly to a switch. You need to have a relay in there or it will fry things. Your rig has a canbus system that is very different from the simple wiring requirements of the past.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
A constant lead is best on a JK ran directly off the battery lead. Most of the wiring on a JK is monitored by the computer system and it is best not to tap into any pre-existing wires unless you are only doing it for a relay control. If your going to tap into the high beam wire, make sure to only use it to control a relay only and main power being run through the relay from the battery.

Forgive me if I'm wrong but does that mean I need to run the red (hot) wire back to the battery from the toggle switch?
 

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I have had no problems with mine running from the high beam circuit (powering the relay that is)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
wiring.jpg

Thank you very much for the responses. Still a little confused thought.
Here are the instructions that came with the lights. Good to go on everything except the red wire coming from the switch. I have 2 sets of lights, 1 on the windshield and 1 set on the front bumper. I'd like the windshield mounted lights to work on demand so the instructions say to wire the switch to a constant hot. Well where would that be? Second, I'd like the set on the bumper to to be able to be switched on but go off when I put my high beams on. So the instructions say to wire the switch to the factory high beam lead using the supplied snap lock connector. So how do I locate the high beam lead? PLEASE HELP!
 

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:whistling: Get the sPOD-no problems/no fires/no blown fuses/no stray switchs/no problemo



View attachment 68965

Thank you very much for the responses. Still a little confused thought.
Here are the instructions that came with the lights. Good to go on everything except the red wire coming from the switch. I have 2 sets of lights, 1 on the windshield and 1 set on the front bumper. I'd like the windshield mounted lights to work on demand so the instructions say to wire the switch to a constant hot. Well where would that be? Second, I'd like the set on the bumper to to be able to be switched on but go off when I put my high beams on. So the instructions say to wire the switch to the factory high beam lead using the supplied snap lock connector. So how do I locate the high beam lead? PLEASE HELP!




:dance::rofl: JIMBO
 

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Actually an easier way is to use your switch to provide the GROUND to the relay.

No hot wire to find, or run back and forth through the firewall.
You simply run a battery fused power lead to both the "power in" (#30) and "trigger" (#85) terminals on the relay.

Connect a wire from one of the under dash ground points to your switch, from it runs a lead to the "ground" (#86) terminal on your relay.

Flip the switch on, and the ground circuit is completed and your lights come on.


For the high beam operated only, you tap into the high beam power wire to feed the "trigger" (#85) on the relay, instead of a battery fused connection.
You can use the same ground switch as an over ride to prevent the lamps from coming on, or run a ground direct to terminal #86, so that the aux lamps will come on with the high beams.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Actually an easier way is to use your switch to provide the GROUND to the relay.

No hot wire to find, or run back and forth through the firewall.
You simply run a battery fused power lead to both the "power in" (#30) and "trigger" (#85) terminals on the relay.

Connect a wire from one of the under dash ground points to your switch, from it runs a lead to the "ground" (#86) terminal on your relay.

Flip the switch on, and the ground circuit is completed and your lights come on.


For the high beam operated only, you tap into the high beam power wire to feed the "trigger" (#85) on the relay, instead of a battery fused connection.
You can use the same ground switch as an over ride to prevent the lamps from coming on, or run a ground direct to terminal #86, so that the aux lamps will come on with the high beams.


Thank you very much for that explanation...I think I get it now...Gonna try and finish it up this weekend. Thanks again :thumb:
 
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