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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2011 JKU Sport but I had the dealer put the Sahara tires and rims on when I got it. I've read just about everything I can but keep getting conflicting answers on how many inches my tires are. I had the owner of COP4x4 tell me they are 30s then I read 31s and also people saying they are 32s. I want to put 33s on it but I want to know how much of a height difference it will be. Also, once and for all.....with 33s, do I have to put a lift or no? Different answers on that as well. I will not be off roading but dont want to rub anything on anywhere. Thanks so much for any help.
 

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i have a 2011 jku sport but i had the dealer put the sahara tires and rims on when i got it. I've read just about everything i can but keep getting conflicting answers on how many inches my tires are. I had the owner of cop4x4 tell me they are 30s then i read 31s and also people saying they are 32s. I want to put 33s on it but i want to know how much of a height difference it will be. Also, once and for all.....with 33s, do i have to put a lift or no? Different answers on that as well. I will not be off roading but dont want to rub anything on anywhere. Thanks so much for any help.
Stock Sahara tires are 255x70x18 which calculates to 32.06". YMMV

Lift? Others know much more than I do.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Wow, ok thanks. Also about the lift, I forgot to mention that I will be replacing the Sahara rims with 17" rims so lift or no lift with Duratrac?
 

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To convert metric tire measurements to inches by inches, divide the first number by 25.4, that is how many inches wide your tire is. The next it the percentage of width is height of side wall, multiply this by 2 since you have side wall above and below the rim and and it to the last number which is rim size to get overall diameter. 285/25.4 = 11.22, 11.22x.7 = 7.85, (7.85x2)+17 = 32.7. Example using my wheel size since I don't know what they are supposed to come with.
 

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I have a 2011 JKU Sport but I had the dealer put the Sahara tires and rims on when I got it.
That had to cost some major jack. Why did you ask for that option and what are you going to do with the 18"s?

I went to 33's with no lift but I will not be taking my JKU off road that much.
 

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To convert metric tire measurements to inches by inches, divide the first number by 25.4, that is how many inches wide your tire is. The next it the percentage of width is height of side wall, multiply this by 2 since you have side wall above and below the rim and and it to the last number which is rim size to get overall diameter. 285/25.4 = 11.22, 11.22x.7 = 7.85, (7.85x2)+17 = 32.7. Example using my wheel size since I don't know what they are supposed to come with.
Or, if you despise math, use this:

Tire Size Calculator - Discount Tire Direct

Ok cool, thanks so much!
 

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I have a 2011 JKU Sport but I had the dealer put the Sahara tires and rims on when I got it. I've read just about everything I can but keep getting conflicting answers on how many inches my tires are. I had the owner of COP4x4 tell me they are 30s then I read 31s and also people saying they are 32s. I want to put 33s on it but I want to know how much of a height difference it will be. Also, once and for all.....with 33s, do I have to put a lift or no? Different answers on that as well. I will not be off roading but dont want to rub anything on anywhere. Thanks so much for any help.
Wow, ok thanks. Also about the lift, I forgot to mention that I will be replacing the Sahara rims with 17" rims so lift or no lift with Duratrac?
As Tomthbomb said, your tires are 32". Not sure I understand your intent, but I think you're planning on buying 17" rims, then new tires. Correct?

If so, why on earth would you buy 17's? Tires in that size will kill you on cost. In fact, you could buy a set of 5 33" DuraTracs WITH 15" MB72 rims for LESS than you'd pay for tires for 17's alone. Might wanna consider it.

As for the lift and 33's, you get conflicting answers cuz all tires are not created equal, and people run different size rims, etc. Case in point: I'm not even fully sure what your plan is? Are you trying to avoid lifting your Jeep? Or just trying to find if you need to lift it if you go with 33's?

Follow?

You CAN run 33's on your rig without a lift, but if you plan on wheeling it the tires will probably rub on your fenders. This can be fixed with a simple TeraFlex leveling kit, which will also eliminate the natural rake your Jeep came from the factory with. Wipin out the bird population with one well-placed rock. :D

Or you can do a simple spring lift. If your Sports stock springs are, say, 14 in front and 53 in the rear, and you buy a set of springs off a Rubicon (Rubi take-offs) that are 19/60 (highest you get from Jeep), you'll end up with around 2" of lift for about $150, with NO OTHER CHANGES necessary.

It's not like there aren't options.

You just gotta decide what you wanna do. :thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
That had to cost some major jack. Why did you ask for that option and what are you going to do with the 18"s?

Well I bought it the last day of the month so they REALLY wanted to sell it. I wasn't charged anything for it or the amp and subwoofer I requested. I just got really lucky that day. :thumb: I wanted the bigger rims cause I actually went looking for the Sahara edition but they didn't want to come down to my price range so I requested some of the things I liked about the Sahara and they went for it. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
If so, why on earth would you buy 17's? Tires in that size will kill you on cost. In fact, you could buy a set of 5 33" DuraTracs WITH 15" MB72 rims for LESS than you'd pay for tires for 17's alone. Might wanna consider it.

I'll think about smaller rims but I really like how the bigger ones look. I also really would like the lift just to give me a tiny bit of height. I was thinking Teraflex 2.5 but would like to put it off for a while because of the expense of it. Thanks for the info. I need all the help I can get lol.
 

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Or you can do a simple spring lift. If your Sports stock springs are, say, 14 in front and 53 in the rear, and you buy a set of springs off a Rubicon (Rubi take-offs) that are 19/60 (highest you get from Jeep), you'll end up with around 2" of lift for about $150, with NO OTHER CHANGES necessary.
Must be why ours seemingly sets so high and is about 19" from the running board to the ground. We chose the tire switch over the Ruby wheels, cuz on the road is where the thing will be most of the time, if not always. If the OP is anywhere near Naples FL, they probably still have our 17" take offs. Now I keep saying Ruby because as far as I know the ISLANDER came with a lot of Rubicon stuff, like the wheels, tires, shocks and the springs, I think also. Can I find this number on the coils themselves to be sure?
 

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Must be why ours seemingly sets so high and is about 19" from the running board to the ground. We chose the tire switch over the Ruby wheels, cuz on the road is where the thing will be most of the time, if not always. If the OP is anywhere near Naples FL, they probably still have our 17" take offs. Now I keep saying Ruby because as far as I know the ISLANDER came with a lot of Rubicon stuff, like the wheels, tires, shocks and the springs, I think also. Can I find this number on the coils themselves to be sure?
Yup.

Here's what the tags on the stock springs look like (don't be alarmed...mine are no longer on my Jeep; took em out of a box in my garage.)

The last two NUMBERS on each tag denotes the strength of the spring. As for stock Wrangler springs in general, the highest is 19 for the front, and 60 for the rear. I think the lowest is 13/54 (or maybe 14/55...I forget). Also, don't worry if both of your fronts are different, and both of your rears...that's done to compensate for different weight ratios on opposite sides of your Jeep.

Mine are about middle of the road:

This rear spring is a 58.
View attachment 93572

This front is a 16.
View attachment 93573
 

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Here's what the tags on the stock springs look like (don't be alarmed...mine are no longer on my Jeep; took em out of a box in my garage.)

The last two NUMBERS on each tag denotes the strength of the spring. As for stock Wrangler springs in general, the highest is 19 for the front, and 60 for the rear. I think the lowest is 13/54 (or maybe 14/55...I forget). Also, don't worry if both of your fronts are different, and both of your rears...that's done to compensate for different weight ratios on opposite sides of your Jeep.

Mine are about middle of the road:
Good info, so I went out to check and ours are both 17 on the front and both 59 on the rear, so that says it's on the higher end of the spectrum, but are they the same as what's on a 2010 Rubicon? How about what comes with the tow package....anything different?
 

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Good info, so I went out to check and ours are both 17 on the front and both 59 on the rear, so that says it's on the higher end of the spectrum, but are they the same as what's on a 2010 Rubicon? How about what comes with the tow package....anything different?
From everything I have read.....
A jeep saying "rubicon" on it does not mean it will have a certain spring on it. A rubicon might be built with 14/55 or 19/60 or anywhere in between on either end.

Having tow package usually means you will have stiffer rear springs. But from what I have read on the forums there isnt realy a rhyme or reason to what springs are on what wrangler.

Example- my 2012 JKU sahara with max tow package has 16/59 on it. the 2007 JKU-X with tow that I traded in had 18 on left and 19 on right front and 60 on the rear.
 

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From everything I have read.....
A jeep saying "rubicon" on it does not mean it will have a certain spring on it. A rubicon might be built with 14/55 or 19/60 or anywhere in between on either end.

Having tow package usually means you will have stiffer rear springs. But from what I have read on the forums there isnt realy a rhyme or reason to what springs are on what wrangler.

Example- my 2012 JKU sahara with max tow package has 16/59 on it. the 2007 JKU-X with tow that I traded in had 18 on left and 19 on right front and 60 on the rear.
No way we're going to clear this up then, but hard to fathom that a vehicle could go down the assy line and get two different front springs. I'm guessing that the JKU's have more than the JK for the extra weight also. Next time I'm on the dealer's lot, I might just do some down under's for the sake of research. Gonna measure some running board steps to the ground, also.
 

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No way we're going to clear this up then, but hard to fathom that a vehicle could go down the assy line and get two different front springs. I'm guessing that the JKU's have more than the JK for the extra weight also. Next time I'm on the dealer's lot, I might just do some down under's for the sake of research. Gonna measure some running board steps to the ground, also.
I believe they put a stronger spring on the passenger side because of the fuel tank being on that side to help make it not sag to one side.

All I know is that they put 16/59 on my jku and I really wish they had put 18 on the front to go along with the 59 on back cause it gives a hell of a rake to the jeep the way it is.

But I got some 19/60 on order so hopefully soon it will be fixed.
 

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No way we're going to clear this up then, but hard to fathom that a vehicle could go down the assy line and get two different front springs. I'm guessing that the JKU's have more than the JK for the extra weight also. Next time I'm on the dealer's lot, I might just do some down under's for the sake of research. Gonna measure some running board steps to the ground, also.
"running board steps" - results will be inconsistent. Pick some body spots, front and rear instead. I just measure tire to fender because it's so easy. I think you'll find that the idea with stock Jeeps direct from factory is to have about 4" - 5" front and rear. It will obviously take stiffer springs to achieve those measurements on a JKU hardtop vs JK softtop.

To answer the OP, the stock Sahara rims aren't very wide and are made to keep the tires inside the fenders. Stick with some relatively narrow 33's, such as 33x10.50, and you won't have any problems. 18" tires are going to be limited on size choices, so dropping to 17" wheels will increase your 33" options quite a bit.
 

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"running board steps" - results will be inconsistent. Pick some body spots, front and rear instead. I just measure tire to fender because it's so easy. I think you'll find that the idea with stock Jeeps direct from factory is to have about 4" - 5" front and rear. It will obviously take stiffer springs to achieve those measurements on a JKU hardtop vs JK softtop.

To answer the OP, the stock Sahara rims aren't very wide and are made to keep the tires inside the fenders. Stick with some relatively narrow 33's, such as 33x10.50, and you won't have any problems. 18" tires are going to be limited on size choices, so dropping to 17" wheels will increase your 33" options quite a bit.
OK, top of tire by eyeball to underside of fender flares. Front is 4.5" and rear is 4 3/4". Jeep sits with a slight rake, giving some allowance for cargo weight and a better look overall, I think.
 

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If so, why on earth would you buy 17's? Tires in that size will kill you on cost. In fact, you could buy a set of 5 33" DuraTracs WITH 15" MB72 rims for LESS than you'd pay for tires for 17's alone. Might wanna consider it.

I'll think about smaller rims but I really like how the bigger ones look. I also really would like the lift just to give me a tiny bit of height. I was thinking Teraflex 2.5 but would like to put it off for a while because of the expense of it. Thanks for the info. I need all the help I can get lol.
Not sure about Duratracs but I just priced this from DTD going with just 5 tires for my stock 17" rims (BFG All terrain) and with 5 15" MB72 rims and BFG tires and the cost was $315 more for the 15" tire and wheel combo. Granted I do have some extra duty in there, but that's what the difference was.
 
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