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Discussion Starter #1
So I think I may have made a bad impulse buy for my '14 JKU with upgraded Alpine audio system. My intention is to get better overall sound. I bought the Polk db651 speakers and at this point they are non-returnable, sooo... I have since learned that these 4ohm speakers will be quieter than my existing speakers. Does anyone have advice who has upgraded their audio if I should just hold on to them until I can get the Polk db651s slims for the front + an amp to drive them? would that option even be worth it without upgrading the head unit?

What would be the best option:
1. do nothing and eat $70, live with inferior sound
2. Install the polks in the soundbar
3. go ahead and buy the matching fronts + some amp (would probably pay for installer)
4. another option I have not thought of
 

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Install them...you might be surprised. It's a fast and easy install. I have the Polk db651s speakers in dash and soundbar and they made a huge difference just with the factory amp. They are plenty loud...and infinitely cleaner. The sub will be more problematic. I spent a lot of time and money working on the stock sub enclosure and installing a Polk MM840 with a 500-watt mono amp to drive it. I ended up disconnecting that sub and connecting a 10" JL Audio sealed sub to the amp. I'm VERY happy with the sound now...top up or down.

There are those who will tell you that the only way to get decent sound out of the JK is to replace the entire audio system. As an audiophile who has invested much more in my home audio system than most people invest in their cars (even on WF), I do not agree. Yes, you can get better sound by replacing the entire system. But your Polks will be a definite improvement. Get the Polks for the front also. If you end up not being satisfied, then you can think about amping, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
no worries about having the 4ohm mixed with the 2ohm up front? Also, what model amp and sub did you get? You obviously know what you're talking about, and I'm not trying to reinvent the wheel: I'd like to mimic your setup :) ...your enclosed sub is driven by the stand-alone amp, not the HU, right? Thanks!
 

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Personally, I would replace the front and soundbar speakers at the same time. The fronts are pretty simple to install also.

The amp is just to drive the sub...line level input spliced into sub wires near the rear passenger door...heavy gauge wire to the battery and to the sub. Amp is the JBL GTO-501EZ. Sub is JL Audio CS110G-TW3. It took substantial tweaking of the gain, crossover, and bass boost on the amp to get acceptable sound. A separate EQ would definitely be better...but also more of a problem to install with the way Chrysler has designed their sound system.

I don't claim to have the perfect system...but I think it is about as good as it can get without ripping out the head unit or installing a multi-channel amp for all the speakers.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Personally, I would replace the front and soundbar speakers at the same time. The fronts are pretty simple to install also.

The amp is just to drive the sub...line level input spliced into sub wires near the rear passenger door...heavy gauge wire to the battery and to the sub. Amp is the JBL GTO-501EZ. Sub is JL Audio CS110G-TW3. It took substantial tweaking of the gain, crossover, and bass boost on the amp to get acceptable sound. A separate EQ would definitely be better...but also more of a problem to install with the way Chrysler has designed their sound system.
So does your new sub fit into the Jeep's sub enclosure, or did you take out the factory enclosure and mount this CS110G-TW3 somewhere?
 

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I went with 77Kick10's all the way around, and my plan was to add an 8" Alpine Type R sub in the stock enclosure powered by a Rockford Fosgate PBR 300x1 amp.

I would have preferred to go with the Polk Audio DB651 model (not the DB651s slim model), but I didn't think they would fit in all 4 corners using the factory grills.

I was going to keep my stock amp and HU in place.

With that said, if you want the absolute best sound, you do have to pull the entire system. But not everyone wants or needs to go to that level. The 2nd best way would be to install something like Cleansweep downstream of the factory amp, then re-amp your new speakers from that point.

The biggest issue with the factory HU and amp is that you are stuck with the lame 3 band EQ and the factory processing (not the mention the 2 ohm issue). The first thing you need to do with the factory premium system is turn the treble all the way up, and the mid all the way down to compestate for the tweeterless speakers.

If you unhook your sub and just listen to your front four 6.5's, you will notice that your soundbar speakers are about half the volume of the front speakers, and seem to be crossed over at about 70 hz (they do not extend as low as the front speakers). That is the factory processing, and you can't do anything about it.

Again, not necessary to swap everything out to get better sound....you just have to remember the limitations of the system. The biggest different I found when I swapped speakers was that I actually had treble again because the new speakers had actual tweeters. While the 77Kick10's didn't hit has hard as the stock Alpine's, they were much cleaner.
 

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If you unhook your sub and just listen to your front four 6.5's, you will notice that your soundbar speakers are about half the volume of the front speakers, and seem to be crossed over at about 70 hz (they do not extend as low as the front speakers). That is the factory processing, and you can't do anything about it.
It you added a line out converter and amp, would that do away with the factory processing? Would you also loose the ability to control fader and balance via the head unit?
 

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It you added a line out converter and amp, would that do away with the factory processing? Would you also loose the ability to control fader and balance via the head unit?
If you used a LOC from the front speakers, that should avoid the goofy processing of the rear speakers. You are still stuck with the poor factory EQ'ing, but that is another story. And yes, you would lose you ability to fade...but you would still have balance.

Technically, you don't even need an LOC, you could just tap the front speakers if you amp has speaker level inputs....but that is where you might get into quality of sound.
 

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So does your new sub fit into the Jeep's sub enclosure, or did you take out the factory enclosure and mount this CS110G-TW3 somewhere?
Disconnected Polk sub is still in the factory enclosure. JL sub is mounted in front of my Tuffy Security Deck.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well, I ordered the polk slims for the front. I'll install both polks in front and rear and see what happens. Crutchfield included the grill adapters and wire adapters for free.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Checked my factory speakers...alpine upgraded, and was surprised to see that it was not paper! In fact, it was very similar in appearance to the Polk db651... Speaker material and magnet size. Hmmm. Hope my Polks sound better...I'll know tomorrow.
 

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Checked my factory speakers...alpine upgraded, and was surprised to see that it was not paper! In fact, it was very similar in appearance to the Polk db651... Speaker material and magnet size. Hmmm. Hope my Polks sound better...I'll know tomorrow.
Make sure you compare to the same source, music, band, etc... otherwise this is futile.

.
 

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Checked my factory speakers...alpine upgraded, and was surprised to see that it was not paper! In fact, it was very similar in appearance to the Polk db651... Speaker material and magnet size. Hmmm. Hope my Polks sound better...I'll know tomorrow.
I have said this before, if the stock alpines had actual tweeters in them, they would be pretty good speakers.
 

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Checked my factory speakers...alpine upgraded, and was surprised to see that it was not paper! In fact, it was very similar in appearance to the Polk db651... Speaker material and magnet size. Hmmm. Hope my Polks sound better...I'll know tomorrow.
I put Polk dxi 6.5 components in my dash last week and currently using factory amp and the speakers alone helped...but this weekend put in new kenwood head unit and another big change. I have Polk 6.5 in the sound bar too ready to hook up to a jl audio amp when I get time. Another amp will run dual 10 subs from the old tj and I will finally be done. I'm ready to be done too.
 

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no worries about having the 4ohm mixed with the 2ohm up front?
I would like to know this as well... no one answered the question.
Running 4 ohms speakers on a 2 ohm amp won't hurt the amp at all. Now, vice versa and you could have problems if the amp isn't 2 ohm stable.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I put Polk dxi 6.5 components in my dash last week and currently using factory amp and the speakers alone helped...but this weekend put in new kenwood head unit and another big change. I have Polk 6.5 in the sound bar too ready to hook up to a jl audio amp when I get time. Another amp will run dual 10 subs from the old tj and I will finally be done. I'm ready to be done too.
Please forgive the following ignorance, but when you replaced the fronts with the components, does that mean you replaced both dash and tombstone mounted speakers (all 4 speakers)? ...I also see some component speaker packages come with crossovers: did you install those too? Thanks
 

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Please forgive the following ignorance, but when you replaced the fronts with the components, does that mean you replaced both dash and tombstone mounted speakers (all 4 speakers)? ...I also see some component speaker packages come with crossovers: did you install those too? Thanks
You don't have to spend all that money to drastically change the sound. I have a Rockford phons gate slim line 4 channel running the fronts and speaker bar and a Rockford fosgate 2 challenge bridged running the sub. Simple hookup, patch into the speaker output from the canbus to the speaker level input on the amp. Connect speakers to the output from the amp. Uses stock head, and you can control fade, gain and the like from the amps. The reason to install after the stock amp is to ensure the canbus is still feeding back to the head. Put a JL slimline in the stick sub enclosure, and you will be crystal clear and vibrating at 30 volume

Ugh, miss the little beast all parked nice and cozy in CO storage. It would love get out and run the plains of Kenya. :-(
 
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