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I just installed Polk DB651s (the slim mount 6.5" speakers) in the front and in the sound bar of my 2014 JKUR w/Alpine sound. I was concerned that most of the reviews I'd read were from people with the base sound or with the predecessor Infinity system, and that it wouldn't make as big of a difference with the Alpine sound. I am happy to report that it makes a world of difference. The sounds is no longer muddy, and is much clearer and cleaner than the Alpines. Even better, you don't have to run your EQ setting with the mids at full negative. Also, it seems just as loud as the Alpines, or if its not, it is plenty loud. I was also concerned I'd get too much treble installing co-axial speakers in the front, but the stock tombstones are so bad, the co-axials actually improve the treble response. Finally, with these speakers it's on par with what I'd expected for factory "premium" sound. It doesn't get close to the sound of a good aftermarket system or even close to the "premium" sound in my previous car (a V10 BMW M5), but it sounds as good or better than the "premium" sound in my wife's Subie. That's all I wanted.

It was totally worth the hour to install and $180 I spent.

Here's what I bought:
2 X Polk Audio DB651s Slim-Mount 6.5-Inch Coaxial Speakers (Pair) - $66/ea on Amazon
2 X Metra 72-6514 Speaker Harness for Select Chrysler/Dodge Vehicles - $8/ea on Amazon
2 X Scosche SAC656 1995-up Neon 5.25/6.5-Inch Jeep Speaker Adapter (Pair) - $13/ea on Amazon
1 X Poly-Fil 20oz bag - $5 at Michael's

Although I read that the regular DB651 will fit the sound bar, I understand the DB651s (and not the DB651) are needed to fit under the sound bar factory grills and to fit under the front dash. I can confirm that they did both fit the factory grills.

The Metra speaker wiring adapters hooked right up, no problems.

The Scosche speaker adapters didn't quite fit. They have three tabs that mimic the tabs on the factory speakers. On the front, one of the tabs was too long to fit in the space where the factory speaker tab once fit. Also, its hole didn't quite line up. I clipped the tab shorter with some dies (the adapters are plastic, so it was quite easy) and I drilled a new hole where it needed it. The modification took all of 2 minutes per speaker adapter, and was only needed for the front speakers.

I also stuffed the sound bar and front speaker boxes with Poly-Fil. One bag was exactly the right amount.

Finally, there are a few write-ups and at least one YouTube video that advocates removing the entire dash to replace the speakers. That is not necessary. The front cover is so flexible, it is easy to get the speakers out. I followed a short write up that SilverSport posted on this board:
Folks, there is a much easier way to get the speakers in the bottom of the dash out without tearing the whole dash apart.

1) Remove the panel on each end of the dash; they just pop out with a tim removal tool.
2) On driver's side remove the plastic trim cover under the steering column; again it just pops off.
3) Remove the metal knee bolster reinforcement; its centered under the steering column and directly behind the trim panel you just removed. Held on with two 10mm bolts.
4) Remove the bracket that the left side of the knee reinforcement bolster attached to.
5) Remove the three 7mm sheet metal screws from the bottom of the dash; two are at the bottom directly under the steering column and the third is over on the side next to the door wiring harness.
6) reach in thru the side of the dash and remove the two copper colored screws (I believe these are also 7mm).
7) Pull out on the bottom of the dash plastic and remove the 10mm bolt holding the speaker box.
8) While holding out on plastic, work the speaker box out thru the opening where the knee bolster reinforecment was located.

Passenger side is even easier:
1) Remove glove box.
2) Remove three screws along bottom of dash.
3) Remove two screws on side of speaker and one on bottom.
4) Speaker comes out thru opening for glove box.

Although pictures would have been nice, once you get in there, it all makes sense. I departed from these instructions in that on the front driver side, in step 8), I pulled the speaker down between the dash plastic and the metal substructre instead of working it out through where the knee bolster reinforcement was located.

It took about 45 minutes to do the fronts and 15 to do the sound bar. It was super easy.

Definitely recommended!
 

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Thanks for sharing. I have a 14 with the premium sound and am somewhat disappointed. The soundbar has an annoying vibration occasionally. I don't have the lows maxed out or anything. Honestly, I don't claim to be an extreme audiophile but I guess I was expecting a little better.
 

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These speakers and the Kickers seem to be the common replacements. Has anyone actually heard both and have a comparison?
 

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Thanks for sharing. I have a 14 with the premium sound and am somewhat disappointed. The soundbar has an annoying vibration occasionally. I don't have the lows maxed out or anything. Honestly, I don't claim to be an extreme audiophile but I guess I was expecting a little better.
A way to get rid of the vibration is to remove the speakers and stuff the soundbar with poly fill (pillowcase stuffing).
 

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These speakers and the Kickers seem to be the common replacements. Has anyone actually heard both and have a comparison?
There's a few reviews on Crutchfield... appears the majority like Polk DB651. Some I've read replaced Kickers with Polk and Polk with Kickers. Probably depends on the actually speaker that was bought. The Polk are supposed to produce more clarity around the mid and higher frequencies. They don't emit good bass so a sub woofer is needed.

Plus it's very subjective since everyone has different tastes in sound.

However, I had the factory Kicker system in my 2010 Grand Cherokee SRT8 and it was OK.. I never really liked Alpine or Kicker sound. So maybe I will swap out with Polk and see what everyone is raving about.

.
 

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Thanks for sharing. I have a 14 with the premium sound and am somewhat disappointed. The soundbar has an annoying vibration occasionally. I don't have the lows maxed out or anything. Honestly, I don't claim to be an extreme audiophile but I guess I was expecting a little better.
Hey bud. Be sure to poly fill the sound bar. I read mixed reviews and almost didn't bother. It is totally worth it. The main gain is that it eliminates that soundbar buzzing you mentioned and replaced it with a more firm punch. To anyone doubting, feel the soundbar lightly before poly fill and notice all the small vibration. Afterwards the soundbar will only have firm punches which can be noticeably felt by hand.
 

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Thanks guys...Did the poly fill! I think the quality is improved a little but at a cost of reduced volume. Still thinking about trying something else. When I fade the volume to the rear they seem super quiet. I tried not to over do it with the poly. I used 3/4 of a walmart pillow on the sound bar and sub.
 

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I just bought a pair of db651 for my soundbar so far and have to get the wire adapters. I just wanna make sure they fit in the soundbar or will I need the "s"? Or should I get a set of each? I wish the adapters were sold locally..... Daaaaaaag nabbit
 

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I am trying to decide whether to do the 4 DB651s swap. Or do DB651 in rear and the Polk components in the front. (6051??)

Does the stock HU still push the treble to the stock tweeters or to the DB651s?

If I am staying with the stock HU should I replace the tweeters at the same time? ( or do the polk components? It seems to be about the same price to get them separately.)
 

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I'm putting in the db651 in the soundbar now. Can't wait to see the difference. Already poly filled and did the capacitor on the tweeters. Waiting for the speakers for the dash. Going with the db651 also
 

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Well I didn't take pics but just finished putting in and what difference. So much clearer. Outstanding.Definitely worth the 50$ And time.
 

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Now I need a speaker cover. Dumbass here used a power drill on full setting. I have to find one now. But I learned and used a driver after that.
 

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I wonder if adding the factory Kicker 4.1 Amplifier Kit will help.. found this on Mopar Parts site...



https://mopar.chromedata.com/RichContent/CDJR/K6861468.pdf

Product Details Close

* All Images are representative of the product. Actual products may vary.
Kicker Amplifier
Part# : 77KCK053
Brand : Jeep OEM
Descriptiton :

Kicker amplifiers are great for powering the entire sound system. They are designed and developed specifically for Chrysler, Jeep, Ram, Dodge, and FIAT vehicles, so installation is quick and easy.
Additional Details: Kicker 4.1 Amplifier Kit, installs on Jeep Wranglers with production base audio system
Warranty :

Warranty Details Performance Parts Warranty
Additional Resources:

Installation Instruction
This Item Fits :

2011 - 2014 Jeep Wrangler
2011 - 2014 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited
Part Only: $449.00
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