Jeep Wrangler Forum banner
  • Hey everyone! Enter your ride HERE to be a part of September's Ride of the Month Challenge!
1 - 20 of 54 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,238 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I got a 95 2.5 manual. For starters it only does this some of the time. Its hard going into first whether I'm moving or not, grinds into second and reverse all other gears are fine. And yesterday it started doing something that makes me think its possessed, while running and in neutral when I release the clutch the drive shaft would shake like its trying to turn push the clutch in and it stops. I move the Jeep and try it again and it doesn't do it. Other times while in neutral it sounds like something is turning in the bell housing sounds kinda like a bearing grind. Ok so what I know is that the slave has a slow leak into the bell housing its gone about a year to a year 1/2 before the master last went dry. The clutch is firm and not soft
I did just change the trany fluid hoping it would help but no change. The clutch doesn't slip and feels fine as far as that. Remember it will do all these things sometimes but not all at the same time. I'm @ a total loss here on this and is driving me nuts its my DD but not my only vehicle. I don't have the money to just start throwing parts at it and it end up being a bad trany. Any and all help is much and dearly appreciated!! thanks in advanced.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,968 Posts
Since there's a leak that you know about, repair that problem. Air is most likely getting into the system. That will cause all types of problems including gears grinding due to the clutch not functioning properly. You might also have a bad clutch. Most likely your trans is fine. A clutch kit will probably solve the problem, along with the proper bleeding of the system during the install. Switch to full syn gear oil in the trans and you'll feel the difference in shifting. I use 75W90 in my Ax15.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,238 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ya that was my plan I just don't want to do all that work and it be something more. I have only installed 1 clutch probably about 13 yrs ago. I'm sure I wont have a problem. I plan on doing the master & slave pre bled kit just to b on the safe side
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,238 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'm starting to wonder if my trany needs rebuilt or replaced I'm not sure that the clutch is the problem.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,093 Posts
The clutch is exposed when you remove the tranny and should be all replaced before you reinstall a rebuild or a replacement so check it out first its cheaper than the tranny.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,238 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ya that I was going to do regardless. I'm just don't want to get it all back together and have to pull the trany again cause its bad
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,207 Posts
Change the oil in the trans. (whoops, missed that you did it).

How bad is the leak?

Im leaning towards clutch, do you know how many miles on it?

Could be syncros too; how about double clutching, does that help?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,238 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well its only gone dry twice in the last 6 or 7 years that I know of I got the Jeep from my brother a few years ago I've refilled it a few times b4 it went dry. It doesn't leave a puddle or anything and its leaking into the bell housing. I think its not releasing all the way sometimes thinking that's WY the drive shaft will try and move while in neutral. I haven't seven it in a while other then to move it out of the way in garage and that just makes me even more sad that I'm not driving it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,207 Posts
Well its only gone dry twice in the last 6 or 7 years that I know of I got the Jeep from my brother a few years ago I've refilled it a few times b4 it went dry. It doesn't leave a puddle or anything and its leaking into the bell housing. I think its not releasing all the way sometimes thinking that's WY the drive shaft will try and move while in neutral. I haven't seven it in a while other then to move it out of the way in garage and that just makes me even more sad that I'm not driving it.
It could be a combination, you know, like brakes that get fluid on them they get grabby. Could be causing your trouble; how about not using the clutch when you are going?

It takes practice, but find the rpms that the gear likes and it will slide in, up or down. Of course this may or may not actually help since it will still grind if its not perfect timing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,238 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I'm afraid that I would cause more problems and I don't want to do more damage to it then i can afford to repair.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,238 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
One other thing I forgot to mention is that when shifting into 3,4 and 5 gear I can sometimes barely push the clutch in and shift fine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,207 Posts
I'm afraid that I would cause more problems and I don't want to do more damage to it then i can afford to repair.
Well, honestly if you do it reasonably you will not cause any more problems. Im not suggesting forcing it in, that causes the troubles, if its done right which isnt too hard there will be no grinding at all, it will feel like you depressed the clutch.

On top of that, you have some wiggle room if the syncros are working, so it doesnt have to be exactly "2000 rpms" for example.

I have actually pressed against the gear, while shifting down, and slowly revved up till it just slid in. It went in smootly when it got to the right rpm.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,207 Posts
One other thing I forgot to mention is that when shifting into 3,4 and 5 gear I can sometimes barely push the clutch in and shift fine.
Sounds like clutch then. Not much disengagement or engagement.

Do you also notice it doesnt take much to engagement to get going too? Harder to tell with a hydraulic clutch than a linkage/cable clutch, but you should be able to notice. It may get to the point where its either disengaged or engaged, so to take off it would just go with little movement of the peddle.

it still may be partial to the fluid on the disk as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,238 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Well, honestly if you do it reasonably you will not cause any more problems. Im not suggesting forcing it in, that causes the troubles, if its done right which isnt too hard there will be no grinding at all, it will feel like you depressed the clutch.

On top of that, you have some wiggle room if the syncros are working, so it doesnt have to be exactly "2000 rpms" for example.

I have actually pressed against the gear, while shifting down, and slowly revved up till it just slid in. It went in smootly when it got to the right rpm.
I'm guessing you would b doing this while moving but what about when I'm stopped at a light or something cause shifting into 3,4 or 5 I don't have any problems. I can sometimes shift into first when rolling to a stop.
 
1 - 20 of 54 Posts
Top