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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I installed a AEV 2" spacer lift last weekend and noticed right away that the passenger side rear tire stuck out further then the drivers side. After taking some measurements I have confirmed that the passenger side tire is 1/2" further out which would indicate to me that the axle is 1/4" off center. I contacted AEV and they advised that since we didn't touch any thing that would affect side to side movement (rear trackbar) that it was probably that way from the factory. here's my questions:

1) have others noticed this?
2) is there any issues with running it this way?
3) other than an adjustable rear track bar is there any easy way to fix it?

I know most will think that I am being anal on this and I probably am but every time I see it it bugs me!

Thanks in advance for your help.
 

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No, this is precisely because you kept the stock trackbar. Jeep goes up, trackbar length stays the same, axle shifts to one side. It's the way the mechanics of the set up works. Your front axle is similarly misaligned going the other direction. An adjustable trackbar would fix it, as would (I believe) some of those relocation brackets, though I haven't heard great things about them.
 

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Simple geometry. Go look at the track bar and think triangle. It should make sense. It was centered from the factory and it's now off center since you increased the vertical distance between the mounts, shortening the effective length = shifting the axle toward the frame mount.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Simple geometry. Go look at the track bar and think triangle. It should make sense. It was centered from the factory and it's now off center since you increased the vertical distance between the mounts, shortening the effective length = shifting the axle toward the frame mount.
I agree so why didn't the front do the same thing? Thanks for the education guys I'm new to this and apprecaite the info :)
 

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The front will shift in the other direction since the frame mount is on the driver's side. When your axles move, they move through the arcs determined by the locating members--the control arms and the track bars. For example, when drooping straight down the front axle will go back and to the driver's side and the rear axle will go forward and to the passenger side. Just visualize it while under the rig and it'll make sense.
 

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That's what's wierd on mine the rear was lifted 1" the front 2" the rear is off to the passenger side by a 1/2" the front is off to the passenger side by only 1/16"
It's tempting to assume the only variable there is the size of the spacers, but I doubt it is. The axles themselves are different and your coil springs are different front to rear, so the front and rear axles--while in principle moving on the same concept after being lifted--will yield slightly different results. That'd be my guess, anyway.
 

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Yep!

........... 2"space-lift and the same shift as "basecamper":whistling:

So, any reason to Modify further, or just leave it as is :confused:

If changes are required, further, what is suggested?

Bet there are MANY folks with the 2" lifts that have never noticed the shift!
 

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Interesting thoughts that I hadn't thought about. On a JKU, what do you think is the minimum height one can be raised before it needs a new trackbar? I put 3/4" spacers up front and nothing on the rear. I'm planning in the future to probably add new spacers and raise the front roughly 1 1/2" and the rear 1". Do you think I need (or will need) a new trackbar?
 

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........... 2"space-lift and the same shift as "basecamper":whistling:

So, any reason to Modify further, or just leave it as is :confused:

If changes are required, further, what is suggested?

Bet there are MANY folks with the 2" lifts that have never noticed the shift!
Interesting thoughts that I hadn't thought about. On a JKU, what do you think is the minimum height one can be raised before it needs a new trackbar? I put 3/4" spacers up front and nothing on the rear. I'm planning in the future to probably add new spacers and raise the front roughly 1 1/2" and the rear 1". Do you think I need (or will need) a new trackbar?
Adjustable trackbars, front and rear, will "fix it."

My understanding is that they really don't affect handling. Your jeep used to lay two tracks (front tires, then rear tires) right on top of each other, whereas now they're slightly off of each other. While notable, that's just not terribly significant.

That said, you are sort of "torquing" stuff to one side now--your shocks, your coil springs, etc., no longer drop straight down to the axle but instead list slightly to one side. What does that do over the long term? I dunno. Keep in mind they were designed to do this (for a brief time anyway) every time your axle "flexed" up and down.

So I'd say if you've got some extra cash, pick up adjustable trackbars and recenter your axles. If not, then don't. I'd expect you'll be fine waiting awhile.
 

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It's tempting to assume the only variable there is the size of the spacers, but I doubt it is. The axles themselves are different and your coil springs are different front to rear, so the front and rear axles--while in principle moving on the same concept after being lifted--will yield slightly different results. That'd be my guess, anyway.
I think this is due to the fact that the front track bar is at a higher angle WRT to the front axle. The rear axle will shift more since the TB is almost parallel to the axle. Might be why most 2" lift kits only include a rear TB relocation bracket and nothing for the front.

Does that make sense?



DB
 

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The diffs not in the middle will effect handling and alignment geometry.

Pushing the diff to the side puts sideways pressure on the control arm bushes, twisting them and promoting premature wear. There is also a slight twisting effect to the diffs alignment if not centred between the control arm mounting points, as the control arms are slightly angled in toward the middle of the diff. So pushing the diff sideways will make one side control arms to get more straight effectively pushing the diff away from the control arm mount, the other side will go on more of an angle, pulling it toward the control arm mount. This effects the thrust angle, or how parallel the read diff is to the front diff and can make the vehicle start to pull to one side.

For the front at that height the only option is an adjustable track bar, plenty of adjustable front trackbars available. To do a trackbar bracket for the front requires at least a 3.5in lift, as as the track bar must remain parallel to the drag link and to achieve this after lifting the track bar end needs a drag link flip / high steer kit.

For the rear there are chassis mounted drop brackets, axle mounted lift brackets and of course adjustable track bar. I chose the diff mounted lifting bracket with the stock track bar, as it is stronger than the original mounting point (I used the Teraflex multiple height one). The chassis mounted one I would recommend against, as it lengthens an already weak point in the rear suspension design and will promote the chances of the chassis bracket breaking its welds from the chassis.

Hope that makes sense :)
 

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Ok, so now I am concerned about putting on my Teraflex leveling kit. That is gonna raise it 2 inches in the front and 1 in the rear. Is this now going to throw off my whole set up and make it all caddywhompass (sp) like you guys are talking about? The last thing I want to do is put any undo stress on anything that would make it more likely to break. I just want to get rid of the squat nose look!
 

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Ok, so now I am concerned about putting on my Teraflex leveling kit. That is gonna raise it 2 inches in the front and 1 in the rear. Is this now going to throw off my whole set up and make it all caddywhompass (sp) like you guys are talking about? The last thing I want to do is put any undo stress on anything that would make it more likely to break. I just want to get rid of the squat nose look!
You're good. :thumb:
 

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Na, the info I gave above is more relevant for over 2.5in lift, but was just making a point that moving the diff sideways will effect handling to some degree. I would recommend an adjustable track bar for the front at 2in, but its not imperative.

The other reason the diff can move so far for such a short lift is the track bar bolts - 14mm bolt in a 9/16 bracket and trackbar sleeve. This will give you about 3/16 to 1/4 in total movement side to side when the bolts are loose, allowing you to accidentally move it.

Also please note that with any type of suspension lift, you should always loosen off ALL control arm and track bar bolts, and only retension once the vehicle is back on the ground under its full normal weight. This will avoid the bushes being pre-twisted at ride height promoting earlier than normal failure of the bushes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
...The other reason the diff can move so far for such a short lift is the track bar bolts - 14mm bolt in a 9/16 bracket and trackbar sleeve. This will give you about 3/16 to 1/4 in total movement side to side when the bolts are loose, allowing you to accidentally move it.
SeeComms thanks for the insight my brother and I were wondering if we should loosen up the rear track bar and see if there was any play to move it back, from what your saying that may be the case. Certainly worth a try and the AEV instructions do not have you loosen that during the install.
 

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Just to throw this in here. Good info already about track bars fixing your issue. They will and they did for me. Both my axles were of post TF 2.5 coil lift and the JKS adj front/rear bars fixed them.
 

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I havent seen any instructions that tell you to do the simplest of mandatory things like loosening all bush bolts so they can find their new neutral! It also makes it a lot easier to drop the diffs when all bolts are loose as you are not fighting against the bushes!

The other thing I find amusing is that I havent seen any instructions manuals that tell you the torque settings for the bolts you have loosened. Most just say to tighten back up to specifications....
 

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Gotta love the half ass lift kits. For a newbie, like myself, unless you follow these forums, which are extremely helpful by the way, every lift company is guilty of promising the new Jeeper that their basic kit will get them lifted with no issues. Then once into it, you find out that to properly gear your rig, you suddenly need adjustable track bars, at least front LCA's, etc., which places the investment much higher than a typical basic kit. But by the time you really understand what you've done, you've blown your budget by another $500 or so dollars. IMO, TF, RK, AEV should do a little better job explaining the final results of the lift in their descriptions.

I'm completely satisfied with my RK lift, but like the addition of my AMP Power Steps (thanks to the wife), I ran a little over budget as I wasn't completely sure what the final outcome would be after I installed the lift, as every vehicle is different.
 

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Oh well.............

....... just eMailed my 4x4 shop to get a $$ on the purchase and installation of F&R Adjustable Track Bars :banghead:

I just have to believe, that considering all the info posted here, that in the long-run, I'll be better off to get the off-center concern fixed :whistling:

:popcorn:
 
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