[Michael Storm]

So before I get to the point let me fill you in on some of the recent history of my TJ. Facts like these, I think, would be important for the advice or opinions I may receive. I put a 3" lift on months ago, and got the notorious desthwobble at 40-50. It was my DD so I had to drive it still while I tried to figure out what was wrong. I'm on base anyways so speed limit is lower than that. Well not even a couple days later it gets so bad that I'm getting DW at every little bump no matter the speed. Low crawled back home lol. Tightened the trackbar down because I saw it had gotten loose. It fixed the DW at low speeds but not the 40-50 one. So I had a transfer case drop that I did not use from the lift kit and put it on; no remedy. I then bought an aftermarket adjustable track bar from BDS as well as a steering stabilizer from BDS as well. DW gone. With the exception of a slight speed wobble, but I just need to adjust my toe in.
Now ever since that incident after I put my transfer case drop on I had been having trouble shifting into 2 or reverse because I was hitting the tub with the shifter. Took the leather boot off and shaved the plastic piece around shift lever to allow more room. Worked well enough to at least be tolerable. But the bigger problem is this clanking sound (like something is loose and rolling around ) that I can hear coming from below my tub. I feel the vibrations of it right below my feet while driving. Not sure if it's a u joint going out because of the drop or what but it's very annoying.. Then I just noticed today that I have to borderline arm wrestle my 4wd shifter to get it to slide between settings; and when putting it in 4L no sign on the dash comes on, and upon releasing the clutch it makes grinding sounds like it's not all the way in gear but I have it pulled back as far as it will go. Seems like this is all stemming from the tcase drop, with the exception of that clanking right below my driver side tub. Should I raise it back up? And any ideas on what this sound /vibration I'm feeling is?

PS. Just extra food for thought: My throwout/pilot bearing has been going out for awhile, at least that's what I think. Upon releasing clutch in neutral I hear rattling but as soon as clutch is pressed in or its put in gear the rattling goes away. And the rattling isn't always there, but most of the time. Idk if that has something to do with the vibrations and clanking from below me.

 

[dirtdigger]

Check your 4wd linkage they can sometimes cause a clanking sound this fixed my problem

 

[eboven]

I would bet it's your transfer case shift linkage as well. I had to adjust mine after my body lift, but a t-case drop would have the same effect. There is a rod on the linkage that can be adjusted by loosening the clamp bolt and then sliding it forward or back; get under there, loosen it up and manually shift the t-case into 4lo. Make sure your shift lever inside is all the way back, and tighten the clamp back down. You may have to play with it to find the sweet spot. This may fix your clunking too, the linkage is mounted to the tub under the driver's floor.

 

[Michael Storm]

Anyone have a picture of this?

 

[UnlimitedRubicon]

Anyone have a picture of this?

...

The 3 most common problems that cause the t-case shifter to bind or not shift properly are 1) The shifter linkage slipped out of adjustment. 2) A steep t-case skidplate drop messed up the shift linkage adjustment. 3) A tall body lift messed up the shift linkage adjustment.

The usual fix for this is to try adjusting the linkage. I can't post a photo right now of where the linkage is adjusted but it's underneath & next to where the linkage connects to the transfer case. A bolt with a 1/2" head threaded into the linkage bracket holds the shifter rod that is moved in or out to get it shifting properly. With the #1 most common problem being that the rod pulled out a tad because the bolt wasn't tight enough, the usual fix is to loosen the bolt & slide the rod inward a bit to make it tighter so the shift handle can pull the t-case all the way into whatever gear you're selecting. That is what I would try first. If you can get it adjusted so it shifts properly again, tighten the snot out of that bolt so the linkage isn't likely to slip out of adjustment again.

Here you go, the bolt I mentioned above is circled in red.

 

[Michael Storm]

Thanks guys I'll try it out ASAP and update later on what happens.

 

[Michael Storm]

So this just messes with my 4wd linkage. Anyway I can mess with my regular shift rod so that it doesn't grind going into reverse 90% of the time? It's too embarrassing when it happens.. Lol. Plus the repeated abuse must be taking ng a toll on it.