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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just replaced my '89 Wrangler window frame gasket. Folded the windshield back, replaced the gasket, window frame back up, gasket seated and aligned(seemingly perfect), everything reattached with no problems. Except.... now the drivers door isn't aligned like it was. It hits on the rear portion of the door opening (tub). It's like its tilted down in the rear, but if I lift it, the latch and pin align and the door will close. The passenger door is aligned the same as before and fits fine. Just the problem with the drivers door. The gasket seems even the whole way across and nothing seemed to be binding up or misaligned when I put it back together. It's sat for a week and I drove it a bit hoping it would settle in, (drove up on both curbs a few times hoping to twist something back into alignment), but nothing is working. Suggestions??
 

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Show us a picture of the door, so we can help you....
 

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The gasket under the windshield could not possibly make the door sloppy
 

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'89 YJ 4.2 with MC-2150 Carb & HEI, 2-1/2" Ex. AX-15, NP231 SYE, Adams shafts, F&R ARB, 3
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Take a close look at the door hinges to see if the paint looks disturbed, Maybe you somehow accidentally shifted it somehow while you were working on it.
 

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Full doors or half doors.
If you have half doors, remove the upper and close the door. How does it fit?

If you have full doors, post a pic of the gap at the windshield frame to the front of the door and another of the rear of the door to the hard top or soft top.

Did you move the spreader bars at all?
Is your "A" pillar (hinge pillar) rusted where it meets the floor?

Good Luck, L.M.
 

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If you have soft uppers, take them off and the skins and bend the frame diagonally until it fits- had the same issue and Manny, on this forum, gave me that tip! Now my doors open and close with no rubbing.



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Here’s a before



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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Solid doors, hardtop, both doors closed fine before. Unbolted top to lift it up. Unbolted roll cage arms. Unbolted inside window frame brackets. Folded window frame down. Replaced the frame gasket. Bolted everything back. Everything lined up good. Drivers door is low at the rear, at the latch. There's enough "slop" (slight!) in the pins/hinges that I can "lift" the rear of the door when closing and it will latch. Not perfectly, but it will latch. Latched perfectly before. Passenger door works just like it did before, latches fine. Same slight "slop" (poor choice of words) in that door also. Pins and hinges not worn out, just worn some from 30 yrs use (only 80K on the vehicle). Just can't figure out what moved.
 

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Did you try loosening the hinge bolts on the DOOR(not body side) and pushing up? Might be enough play in the holes to get what you need? That was my next move if I hadn’t ‘aligned’ my upper window frame


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Did your roll bar drop when you took the last bolt out from the windshield frame? This happened to mine and i had to muscle the bar back up, and realign my soft top door frame because the rear soft top vertical bar moved slightly.
 

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If you took the door off for the windshield job, you probably knocked some dirt out of the hinge pin area that was taking up that slop. Good time to replace with new inserts; there should be no lateral movement in there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Actually I took the passenger door off and that's the one that fits. But, I didn't stand on or lean against the drivers door either, so I can't figure out what in the world tweaked it. I'm sure I can readjust it, but just trying to figure out what happened. Of course when I unbolted the windshield frame/roll bar arms, the arms both dropped slightly, then had to be pushed back up to realign and get the bolts back in, but, both sides acted and were treated the same. Still can't understand why one side went out of whack like this.
 

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'89 YJ 4.2 with MC-2150 Carb & HEI, 2-1/2" Ex. AX-15, NP231 SYE, Adams shafts, F&R ARB, 3
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Still waiting on pics to see what you are actually describing...
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
OK, don't know why they rotated. But, you can see there's more gap at the upper portion of the front profile of the door, making the rear part of the door by the latch hit the latch pin. The things really muddy so maybe you can't see it very well!! So the door is sagging slightly at the rear. I took both DOOR hinge bolts loose to try and tilt the door up and rotate the top forward. But I can't see the door move at all at the hinges. Supposed to be elongated holes correct? Am I doing this right? If I can get the door rotated slightly counterclockwise is should help in the rear by the latch pin correct? But there still is quite a bit of difference in the window frame and door angle too. Also, my hinges don't have any inserts. What bushings can I use?
 

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If you loosened the 3 bolts on each hinge and the door wouldn't move, you didn't loosen enough..
With the door closed back em out 1/4" or so and give em a tap to knock the internal plate loose.... them tighten em back up..

This should help you understand the hinge liners...
 

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'89 YJ 4.2 with MC-2150 Carb & HEI, 2-1/2" Ex. AX-15, NP231 SYE, Adams shafts, F&R ARB, 3
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Kinda hard to see the full picture piece by piece. Mine has the same striations in the paint on the door latch from the striker (pic 3). due from the PO trying to install the wrong size insert on the bottom hinge and breaking the weld. Still looking for the appropriate repair hinge inserts would fix mine. So from your Pics, my best guess is you have the same issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
OK, finally got the door loosened on the hinges. The other day when I posted I had the bolts loosened enough that the inside backer plate was loose and rattling around but still couldn't get the door to move. Leaning on the door, shaking it, nothing would move. Today I took a dead blow hammer to the hinges and apparently that loosened up the seal between the door and the hinges. All of a sudden something popped and the moved. Finally! So I got the door raised in the back so the latch lines up with the pin and the door isn't hitting the head of the pin anymore. That doesn't tell me why the problem showed up after the gasket replacement, but at least everything's back where it should be for now?!

But I've still got a question on the hinges. There's enough play to show that they're probably worn some and need some attention. But mine have NO bushings of any kind, in fact mine are a split type of hinge tube. I haven't seen mention of this type. How can these be tightened up?
 
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