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Hey all my 97 tj has hardly any defrost? any idea why? i thought a system failure was supposed to default to defrost?
 

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Mine has a bad spring or something and when I set it to defrost nearly nothing comes out. I set it to "heat" and a nominal amount of breeze comes out, with the fan on the lowest setting. If I move the fan higher, I can hear a mild "thwap" and the breeze no longer hits the windshield. Ditto if I set it to "defrost". I just haven't gotten in there to look at things and yes, it is annoying.


Take care... RT
 

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high jack going down...

my 97 tj 2.5l when i run over 2500 RPM's stops blowing air and "defaults to defrost" as he said uptop

so is my AC unit breaking?

seems it clicks loud now days and never really put any thought into it
 

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the arm that turns the defrost door has broken. I just replaced mine.

the blender doors are inside the center dash facing the driver side. so if you drop the driver knee panel you can see them.
its this piece you need
*NEW 97-06 JEEP WRANGLER LOWER HVAC AIR BOX DOOR LEVER - eBay (item 190473503935 end time Dec-07-10 13:09:33 PST)
Hey, can you shed some light on how you did this? Did you have to take the entire thing apart, or can you do it from the outside? I have to do this soon, trying to plan it out. Thanks!
 

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Hey, can you shed some light on how you did this? Did you have to take the entire thing apart, or can you do it from the outside? I have to do this soon, trying to plan it out. Thanks!
I think I said pretty clear you only need to take off the driver knee panel under the steering wheel column.
you might found the lever broke in two pieces with the rod stuck in the hole. I used a screw just screw into the hole on the rod tight and use a pair of nose pillars to pull the remaining bit out.
when you reinstall the new lever, Id suggest attach the arm first, you might need to turn the vent mode back and forth so the rod lines up. theres only one way it would go in so you need to line it up.
once its lined up you just need to push it in tight.

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f5/alaska-is-cold-need-my-defroster-to-work-72173.html

 

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I think I said pretty clear you only need to take off the driver knee panel under the steering wheel column.
you might found the lever broke in two pieces with the rod stuck in the hole. I used a screw just screw into the hole on the rod tight and use a pair of nose pillars to pull the remaining bit out.
when you reinstall the new lever, Id suggest attach the arm first, you might need to turn the vent mode back and forth so the rod lines up. theres only one way it would go in so you need to line it up.
once its lined up you just need to push it in tight.

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f5/alaska-is-cold-need-my-defroster-to-work-72173.html

Thanks for the explanation, I was confused from reading other posts where they screwed in the broken piece and just used that. I ran a screw into both and pulled it out like you said. Busted it out this morning, now I have defrost. Thanks again.

ps removing the seat made it a lot easier
 

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getting warm air from the center panel and cold air from the driver side panel wtf!! I need heat .. lol... the defrost isnt working either. ive tried the blend door acuator near the right speaker . that moves back and forth . I tried the blend door under the passenger side, that opens and closes .even the center bottom blend door moves back and forth. why am I not geeting hot air from the right .?why am i not getting HOT HOT AIR AT ALL.. my heater core is fine that checks out ok .. im stumped again
 

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'97 TJ HVAC Actuator Lever

I too experienced a hvac duct control problem on my '97 TJ this past summer and surfed the net to find out more as to probable cause. I discovered and confirmed that my problem was a broken plastic actuator. See attached pics. One forum referenced a 1996 TSB listing an actuator lever and a revised hvac control unit. So as a true Mopar loyalist I am, and ex-Chrysler Service & Parts Rep, I went to my local dealer. The part numbers in the TSB were superceded numerous times over per my parts counterman's remarks. The simple plastic lever was superceded to only being replaceable by buying an entire hvac housing assembly! No way. So I ventured back to the web and found a site where some company must have bought out all the actuator levers from Mopar and offered them for sale for around $14 plus shipping! Yes, the package still have Mopar part numbers, but the part number is no longer offered by the dealer. This is not the fault of the dealer, but the manufacturer having obsoleted the part. So I order the part and it installed very simply. Problem resolved will little repair expense! So for those of you that are looking for an inexpensive fix, contact:
ruggedridgeoffroad.com via
460 Horizon Dr. STE. 400,
Suwanee, GA 30024 U.S.A.
Phone:
+1 770 614 6101

You will need to know if your actuator level is a Short or Long Lever. There are different lengths. If not sure, order both. You may need one or the other at some time. P.S. Never did learn as to why the manual control unit was a part of the original TSB. I assume it over actuated and/or allowed interference of one actuator over another causing undo stress on the plastic levers. Eventually, the levers give way as a result.
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