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Discussion Starter #1
I went off road this weekend and had/have problems with my lockers. I was in 4 low and activated the front and rear lockers while not moving. The lock lights were blinking and never went solid. I deactivated them after I tried driving a short distance with them still blinking, than turned them off.

On the drive home, I instantly noticed the rear differential was locked, in 2 high and no lock light on. So today at work, I am a mechanic, I tried activating them both with it lifted off the ground. The front lock does not lock and has power and ground going to the locker coil. The rear was locked and would not unlock. I removed the rear cover only and saw the plate in the unlock position, but the sensor seems to be stuck extended. The sensor should have a spring internally to assist the plate to the unlock position. Now for the really strange part, the locks were stuck into the differential locking it even with the plate in the unlock position.

I worked it back and forth applying pressure and after a while they finally unlocked. I than ran the vehicle in the air and cycled the locker off and on ten times and the rear works fine except the rear sensor will only sometimes indicated the rear is locked. I didn't have time to to open the front differential today.

Can anyone give me any insight to what may be the problems. Also are the stock lockers unreliable?

I am running 35" tires and 4:56 gears.

Thanks for any suggestions.
 

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I went off road this weekend and had/have problems with my lockers. I was in 4 low and activated the front and rear lockers while not moving. The lock lights were blinking and never went solid. I deactivated them after I tried driving a short distance with them still blinking, than turned them off.

On the drive home, I instantly noticed the rear differential was locked, in 2 high and no lock light on. So today at work, I am a mechanic, I tried activating them both with it lifted off the ground. The front lock does not lock and has power and ground going to the locker coil. The rear was locked and would not unlock. I removed the rear cover only and saw the plate in the unlock position, but the sensor seems to be stuck extended. The sensor should have a spring internally to assist the plate to the unlock position. Now for the really strange part, the locks were stuck into the differential locking it even with the plate in the unlock position.

I worked it back and forth applying pressure and after a while they finally unlocked. I than ran the vehicle in the air and cycled the locker off and on ten times and the rear works fine except the rear sensor will only sometimes indicated the rear is locked. I didn't have time to to open the front differential today.

Can anyone give me any insight to what may be the problems. Also are the stock lockers unreliable?

I am running 35" tires and 4:56 gears.

Thanks for any suggestions.
Is this a new or used JEEP? Did you do the regear? You might pop the covers and check the little plunger that sends the lock - unlock signal. If itis in wrong, it can hang up and prevent lockers fromoperating properly. Just FYI, I pulled the plungers out of mine and plugged the case where they go. Now have zero issueswith the factory locker.
Best to you and yours.
 

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Get an ARB or Eaton to replace the stock ones. The factory lockers are Japanese TFS lockers with little support and alright reliability. If they break or malfunction they will probably eat the spider gears.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Is this a new or used JEEP? Did you do the regear? You might pop the covers and check the little plunger that sends the lock - unlock signal. If itis in wrong, it can hang up and prevent lockers from operating properly. Just FYI, I pulled the plungers out of mine and plugged the case where they go. Now have zero issues with the factory locker.
Best to you and yours.
Yes bought new and installed the gears myself. I was wondering if I could eliminate the plungers. I thought the plunger had a spring inside that helped return the locker plate as well as indicating the position. I also believe the plunger causes a scraping noise from ridding on the plate that can be heard while driving next to a wall.

I did install the front plunger after the carrier and caused the front to be locked, had to take back apart and correct my mistake. It did work right after that, but not this weekend.
 

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I should rephrase that if it seems like it's on its way out look at different lockers.
 

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I should rephrase that if it seems like it's on its way out look at different lockers.
Thats why Im asking. I have 6,500 miles and wasn't sure how reliable the factory lockers are. I don't want to waste a lot of time and money on unreliable if they are weak. The plungers are $64 each not expensive but a lot of work to replace
 

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Yes bought new and installed the gears myself. I was wondering if I could eliminate the plungers. I thought the plunger had a spring inside that helped return the locker plate as well as indicating the position. I also believe the plunger causes a scraping noise from ridding on the plate that can be heard while driving next to a wall.

I did install the front plunger after the carrier and caused the front to be locked, had to take back apart and correct my mistake. It did work right after that, but not this weekend.
If you are confident enough to run without indicator to tell you whether the diff is locked or not, I would just eliminate the plunger and plug the hole. I guess I dont need the light on the dash to tell me if I am locked up or not is why I canned mine. That way they cant screw up the mechanism.
 

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I have over 77,000 miles and been running 35" for about 4 years and I have had 0 problems with them.






 

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View attachment 1638978

^^^ # 31.

My 2013 Rubicon has about 11,200 miles on it. I have used the rear locker approx. 15 times, and the front approx. 5 times.
I have never had a issue with mine. But when I lock mine in, I am in 4 Low, [/B]and moving very slow and then lock them in. I have never tried locking them sitting still!!!!!!!!!!
 
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