[jobiegermano]

@Pressurized (if you're still around) and everyone, I went to complete my PRS+ Mod and found a seller stating they were selling the old 6032si speaker, but that was a lie, I received the 6532ix instead. So, now I have to decide if I'm okay with these 6532ix speakers for my soundbar or if I should send them back. I have a 2013 JKU w/ Alpine upgrade and my plan for now is to continue using the stock amp, but I have replaced the head unit to a Sony AX4000.

Here's the options as I see them:

6032si - 2 Ohm, cannot be found

PR6512is - 2.7 Ohm, about $90
6532ix - 3 Ohm, about $90, have in hand, but willing to return, might be too thick/deep anyway
6532ex - 3 Ohm, about $83
CDT CL-6EX.2 - 2 Ohm, about $140 (including adapter rings)
6530cx - 3 Ohm, about $165, might be too thick/deep also, but got high ratings at Crutchfield

My gut is saying to return the ix for the PR6512is or the CDTs, but I would really love to hear from anyone that has tried these 6532ix speakers and anyone that has any experience with any of the other speakers.

Again, Sony AX4000 head unit, factory amp for now, tweeter mod, factory fronts, will do the sub mod next; I just really need help deciding on the rollbar speakers. I'll be doing all the sound dampening and poly fill, etc. if that matters.

Thank you!!

EDIT: Since writing this I’ve also found the Powerbass OE-652 🤷🏻‍♂️

 

[Pressurized]

The 6532ix is fine, there really isn't a speaker that fits the specs we desired as well as the 6032si did. I have tried the CDT and it was decent, it's got the 2ohm impedence, but it's also got a lower efficiency which slightly reduces the output. The JBL CLUB6520 is another decent option. The Powerbass is only 88db efficiency, I haven't heard it, but I'd say its not enough output.

You've already got the Infinity and while the ex would be the normal recommendation, the ix works fine. I'd use what you have.

The Pioneer sub has been changed since the PRS was put together too. I personally haven't heard the new one. And the efficiency is a bit lower on the new one, but everything else is the same. I would expect it to perform similarly, but it might need an amp to really shine.

Good luck.

 

[jobiegermano]

I’m so stoked you responded! Thank you!

After seeing your suggestion about the JBL, I went down the JBL rabbit hole and I really like it, and then I found the JBL GTO629 which looks almost perfect. It has the better tweeter tech and better materials (cone, surrounds, etc.) too.

JBL Club 6520 is 3Ohm, 92 Sensitivity, $50
JBL GTO629 is 3Ohm, 93 Sensitivity, $67

So unless you have some reason to prefer the Club over the GTO, I think I just talked myself into the JBL GTO629!

I’m not gonna lie, I want to send those IX back just because it was a clear bait and switch and I don’t care if that’s petty 😆

I am starting to worry about firmament. I did watch this about ripping open the stock speakers and using them as an adapter which seems super smart:

If you don’t mind answering one (hopefully last) question:

I’d love to know which sub you’d pair in this system.

I had seen something about the Pioneer TS-SW2002D2, but I was just about to pull the trigger on the original suggestion of the Rockford Fosgate P3SD2-8, and now it looks like you said there’s an even newer Pioneer sub recommended?

The big thing for me is I don’t want to get into upgrading the amp. I know myself and if I go down that route I’ll end up ripping out all the wiring and rewiring every damn thing, which will turn into wanting to spend more, etc.

I could maybe be swayed to grab a mono amp, attach to my head unit’s sub-out, and just run that to the sub leaving the factory amp for everything else, but I’d rather not until I have to.

So, here’s where I’ve ended up I think:

Head unit: Sony AX4000
Amp: Factory Alpine
Dash woofers: Factory Alpine
Dash tweeters: Factory Alpine w/Mod
Roll Bar Speakers: JBL GTO629
Sub: ??? Either the Rockford or one of the Pioneers ???

I truly appreciate your help. My ADD+OCD mind would have had me searching and second guessing forever. Thank you!

 

[Pressurized]

I've not used those or heard them, but the specs are right there with the Infinity's. The Infinity and the JBL are my 2 favorites for this application.

The link to the new Pioneer is below... I think it was specifically updated to handle more power. Which also means it performs better with more power. The old one was 86db and the new one is 83db. Which means it needs double the power to produce the same output. The Rockford is 82db and even worse than the new Pioneer.

TS-A2000LD2 - 8" - 700w Max Power, Dual 2W Voice Coil, Rubber Surround - Shallow Mount Subwoofer

8" - 700w Max Power, Dual 2W Voice Coil, Rubber Surround - Shallow Mount Subwoofer

www.pioneerelectronics.com

On paper, the new Audiofrog GS8ND2 would be the driver of choice. It's got dual 2ohm voice coils and a stellar 91db efficiency if the specs are true. But it's expensive... And I've never heard it, so I can't verify that it works as good as it should in our application. The tests and reviews I found on it say it works very well in small sealed enclosures, that's us. If building today, I would probably try it.

Audiofrog GS8ND2

GS Series 8" subwoofer/mid-bass speaker with dual 2-ohm voice coils

www.crutchfield.com

Nerdy shit here:

AudioFrog GS8ND2 8-Inch Woofer Review

AudioFrog GS8ND2 8-Inch Woofer Review

www.erinsaudiocorner.com

Lastly, and I know it's contrary to normal sub install practices... The Pioneer for sure works best driven in stereo. When put on a mono amp, everyone that tried it said the sub lost clarity and control and was worse than when driven with a 2 channel amp.

Edit to add: @jobiegermano That was one of the great things about the original 6032si, they came with the mounting ring for our application in the box. You will probably need the Scosche SAC656 to mount the JBL's.

 

[jobiegermano]

Okay, I’ve seen that other Pioneer around and had dismissed it for the sensitivity. I’m trying to remember why I was planning to choose the Rockford over the Pioneer and I think I had gotten in my head that you wrote somewhere it passed the “ear test” better even when the specs weren’t as good, but now I realize I might have misread or misunderstood something. Sounds like you prefer the Pioneer TS-SW2002D2 over both the new Pioneer and the Rockford. That AudiFrog does look enticing, but that’s more than I planned to spend at this point, maybe a later upgrade after my wallet recovers from the rest of this!

I admit I don’t understand dual coils and Ohms. All of these subs are dual 2 Ohm, but are we supposed to be wiring them in series or parallel?

I ask because the Polk Audio DB 842 DVC says:
“Dual 4Ω Voice Coils: This woofer features dual 4Ω voice coils, for wiring flexibility. When the voice coils are wired in parallel, the woofer presents a 2Ω load. When wired in series, the woofer presents an 8Ω load”

So, couldn’t use that and get to 2 Ohms if wired in parallel? It’s shallow mount and 84 dB at 1 watt.

I guess what I’m missing is how the Pioneer is expected to be wired. If it’s wired in parallel then you’re down to a 1 Ohm load, right?

Pioneer DVC in parallel = 1 Ohm, 86dB
Pioneer DVC in series = 2 Ohm, 86dB
Polk DVC in parallel = 2 Ohm, 84dB

If I’m understanding correctly 🤷🏻‍♂️

And thanks for the tip on the Scosche SAC656 mounting adapters! I’ve already got some 72-6514 laying around and dampening liner and poly fill. I think that’s it for the extra stuff.

 

[Pressurized]

That's where my comment on the "contrary to" comes in. We don't wire the sub voice coils in parallel or series. The factory amp is designed for a 2ohm load to 2 seperate voice coils and that's what we give it. We wire direct to the sub, 1 channel of a 2 channel amp to each voice coil. I refer to it as a stereo connection.

If you wire the voice coils in either parallel or series, you need a mono amp for supply... It would then only take 1 signal, we have 2 signals with the stock amp.

Yes, if the older Pioneer TS-SW2002D2 can be found and it looks like it can, that's my preference, just for the efficiency. I'm sure you also read that it isn't a noticible increase in bass, just more clarity and less muddy. My wife said it sounds less bass'y and a little more punchy. If you need more bass, it's going to take an amp. And in that case, the Pioneer is a good choice.

 

[jobiegermano]

Got it!

See, I knew I didn’t know things I thought I knew lol

Well, I’m set, here’s my version of the PRS Mod in 2023 for my 2013 JKU w/Alpine:

Head Unit: Sony XAV-AX4000 (+Crutchfield Wiring)

https://a.co/d/0lSqgaG

Amp(s): Factory Alpine
N/A

Dash Woofers: Factory Alpine
N/A

Dash Tweeters: Factory Alpine w/Mod

https://a.co/d/dljn0sS

Roll Bar Speakers: JBL GTO629

https://a.co/d/6K4gQJF

Speaker Mounting Ring: Scosche SAC656

https://a.co/d/2Bnrb1D

Speaker Wiring Adapter: 72-6514

https://a.co/d/28ZppU4

Sub: PioneerTS-SW2002D2

https://a.co/d/2CXKZKn

Sound Dampening Liner: Amazon Basics

https://a.co/d/7KkrUQ5

Poly Fill: Fairfield Poly Fil Premium Fiber

https://a.co/d/9fhFF7k

**Also trying to add generic USB harnesses from Amazon in an attempt to get my iPhone directly connected to the USB C port on the back of the head unit and maybe even retain the USB in the center console too.

Future considerations:
AudioControl LC2i and a separate amp for the sub… or replace all the factory amp(s) and wiring completely 💁🏻‍♂️

 

[Pressurized]

Got it!

See, I knew I didn’t know things I thought I knew lol

Well, I’m set, here’s my version of the PRS Mod in 2023 for my 2013 JKU w/Alpine:

Head Unit: Sony XAV-AX4000 (+Crutchfield Wiring)

https://a.co/d/0lSqgaG

Amp(s): Factory Alpine
N/A

Dash Woofers: Factory Alpine
N/A

Dash Tweeters: Factory Alpine w/Mod

https://a.co/d/1eKwELA

Roll Bar Speakers: JBL GTO629

https://a.co/d/6K4gQJF

Speaker Mounting Ring: Scosche SAC656

https://a.co/d/2Bnrb1D

Speaker Wiring Adapter: 72-6514

https://a.co/d/28ZppU4

Sub: PioneerTS-SW2002D2

https://a.co/d/2CXKZKn

Sound Dampening Liner: Amazon Basics

https://a.co/d/7KkrUQ5

Poly Fill: Fairfield Poly Fil Premium Fiber

https://a.co/d/9fhFF7k

**Also trying to add generic USB harnesses from Amazon in an attempt to get my iPhone directly connected to the USB C port on the back of the head unit and maybe even retain the USB in the center console too.

Future considerations:
AudioControl LC2i and a separate amp for the sub… or replace all the factory amp(s) and wiring completely 💁🏻‍♂️

Make sure your capacitors are NP or non polar. That description doesn't say that they are.

4.7uF 100V Capacitor,10 PCS Non-Polarized Electrolytic Capacitor 100V 4.7uF 10mm x 17mm NP Capacitor: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

4.7uF 100V Capacitor,10 PCS Non-Polarized Electrolytic Capacitor 100V 4.7uF 10mm x 17mm NP Capacitor: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

www.amazon.com

 

[jobiegermano]

I could have sworn I had verified all the specs, but I just ordered the ones you linked and canceled the others. Thanks again, you’ve been such a huge help! Hopefully I got the wiring adapter for the JBLs to go in the sound bar correct at least!

 

[Pressurized]

I could have sworn I had verified all the specs, but I just ordered the ones you linked and canceled the others. Thanks again, you’ve been such a huge help! Hopefully I got the wiring adapter for the JBLs to go in the sound bar correct at least!

Just wondering... How did it go??

 

[jobiegermano]

I got a little swamped by life, family visiting, events I’ve been attending, etc., but I finally received all of my parts for the first wave: head unit, capacitors, Crutchfield wiring, JBLs for the soundbar, adapters, poly fill, and dynamat stuff.

I also got sidetracked trying to build my own solution to the USB issue. The rear of the head unit has a USB-C connection that outputs 3.0A of current for charging, but there’s no adapter to connect it to the factory charging port in the console (head units that have a USB A output use the AX-USB-MINIB adapter) so I started by grabbing a USB-C to USB-A adapter from Amazon, and then I decided I wanted to add some extra functionality too.

So now I’ve built a slightly (extremely) ridiculous solution that first splits the USB-C into 3 charging connections (one fast charging and two slow) with the fast charging port going straight to my Apple wireless MagSafe charger on my dash. Then the first slow charge off the split will go to the factory USB mini (male) extension that runs to the center console. And finally the third connection of the split has another split that is USB micro and an AUX port. The plan is to use it for the Alexa Auto I have in there now, but really that’s just silly and I know it, but now I have to see if it all works. If it does, great, if not I’ll lose the last part for the Alexa which I likely will never use now that I have CarPlay.

I’m going to try and see if I’ll have time to get started with the holiday tomorrow, but I honestly don’t know with so much else going on ☹

Hopefully I don’t have to worry about my cheap Amazon USB cables catching fire, but I might run it all on a extension cable for a little while where I can see it and touch it until I’m confident I can stuff it behind the dash for good. Either way, I’m going to test, test, and more test before putting the dash back together. I have multiple different adapters and combinations I can try if these aren’t the exact right ones. I have tried it out in the house connected to a wall charger, so there’s some reason for hope!

The only thing I haven’t pulled the trigger on still is the sub. I know you attempted to explain the wiring to me, but it just hasn’t clicked yet. I’m trying to figure out what drives the factory sub; is it a single 2-channel amp or two mono amps, something bridged, etc.?

The best I can tell so far is that the factory amp is two channels, but not bridged?? Which would be very risky wiring each channel to a separate coil. There’s two connections to the dual voice coil sub, each with a positive and negative. So, that should mean that there’s two channels wired in parallel to the DVC sub… I’m just completely unable to find the answer. I know the factory sub is 2Ohm DVC. I know each coil gets its own wire cluster consisting of one positive and one negative. I think each coil is wired to its own channel which would mean changing the wiring to bridged and parallel would be better… but maybe these amp channels can’t be bridged, so maybe just terminate one set of +/- and use the other set as parallel, or get a second sub for that other channel… or 😞 this is why I haven’t pulled this trigger yet. I simply cannot find a reliable diagram/description of the amp(s) powering that 2Ohm DVC with those four wires.

 

[Pressurized]

The factory sub amp is effectively 2 mono amps, each supplying power to one of the 2 voice coils. It cannot be bridged. But the voice coils are seperate in the woofer so the amp thinks it is powering 2 different speakers. So yes, you could get 2 single voice coil subs and put one in the factory location and another somewhere else like under the rear seat. But you cannot bridge them or change the wiring configuration unless you bypass the factory amp or use a line converter and install an aftermarket mono amp.

 

[jobiegermano]

That’s wild. I wonder why that decision was made. I’ve been searching and searching for thoughts on running the separate VCs with different amps and the information out there is super convoluted.

I have heard:

1) Don’t do it, you will DAMAGE the woofer!

2) Possible if done correctly.. although you may lower the sound quality if the signals are not EXACT.

And a bunch of misinformation from anecdotal accounts.

So, I’ve got two identical mono amps that are stable with 2Ohm loads sending identical signals independently to one of two voice coils of a dual 2Ohm voice coil sub.

I guess that’s all the info I could hope to get, thanks again!

I’ll post results as soon as I get them up.

 

[Pressurized]

Mainly because 2 seperate amps are at risk of not being tuned and can provide different signals which is a bad thing. For example, if the gain on one amp is up higher than the other, they are telling the woofer to do different things, the voice coils are literally working against each other. That creates heat and likely to burn something up.

 

[jobiegermano]

Gotcha, this made sense to me:

 

[jobiegermano]

Just wondering... How did it go??

Finally got to start and I began with the easiest part, the installing the JBL GTO 629’s in the soundbar…

1. Remove soundbar from

2. Remove stock grill:

3. Remove stock speaker:

 

[jobiegermano]

4. Next I flipped the soundbar over and loosely traced the shape to the back of my sound dampening material:

5. I made that cut, then I flipped the soundbar again keeping the material in place under it so I could get a more exact shape traced:

6. Made final cuts and checked fit:

7. At this point I paused and traced a mirror image to a second sheet of material that I will use for behind the other speaker:

8. Time to install the sound dampening material:

9. Followed by the Poly Fil:

 

[jobiegermano]

10. Install speaker and grill:

I’m not going to win any competitions for looks either, but just didn’t want to spend the time getting the stock grill back on 🤷🏻‍♂️

 

[TerryC6]

@jobiegermano a couple of other things to consider when doing to the soundbar. One solution is to secure the speaker mounting surface some dowels. The speaker moves the enclosure, not want you want for clean sound. The other thing to do is using closed cell foam stuff some between the the speaker pods to separate the right and left speaker.

 

[jobiegermano]

I’m not sure I understand what you mean about the dowels and the speakers moving, everything feels pretty secure. As for the separation, I used my daughter’s long, skinny arms to push the Poly Fil as far down that tube as possible. It might not be perfectly stuffed tight, but it’s not bad.