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Discussion Starter #1
So having been the owner of two TJs in the past I just recently bought an 89 YJ this weekend. I *love* this thing
 

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Two pressing matters atm. Gauges don’t work (tach and speedo do) so given the age im thinking of a new circuit board for that along with a change in gearing at a later date.

I *think* it’s currently at 3.23 gearing. I’m not sure if I should go with 3.73 or 4.10 gearing. 33” tires 4.2 engine, 5 speed manual with what appear to be stock differentials
 

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Congrats! You should well be able to see where you're going at night!!!
 

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With 33's I would do 4.56
 

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Looks nice and shiny!
 

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4.10's and 33's worked well when i ran them and i got pretty good gas mileage. I am running 35's and 4.88's now and my gas mileage was cut in half and i hardly ever drive it anymore because of it. I miss my stock axles:doh:
 
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120k. However With the large tires it’s probably around 130-140
Speedo gears are a piece of cake to swap out. If the PO replaced it to correct the speedometer you may really only have 120k. You can download a gps app for your phone to check against your speedo.

Welcome to the Forum and the Carbureted YJ Club
 

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Gauge problems are pretty common. Sometimes you can pull the gauge cluster out and just clean up the printed circuit board with some scotchbrite. There might be a sticky on that. If not a search should show some write ups.

You would have 3.07 gears. Yj's with 4 cylinders came with 4.10 gears. If you could find a set of those to swap in it could save a bunch of money compared to a regear. Ideally you would want a front YJ axle with 4.10's and a Ford 8.8 rear out of an explorer with the same 4.10's. All factory options and reasonably inexpensive.

Congrats on the new Jeep. It looks to be in real nice shape.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Gauge problems are pretty common. Sometimes you can pull the gauge cluster out and just clean up the printed circuit board with some scotchbrite. There might be a sticky on that. If not a search should show some write ups.

You would have 3.07 gears. Yj's with 4 cylinders came with 4.10 gears. If you could find a set of those to swap in it could save a bunch of money compared to a regear. Ideally you would want a front YJ axle with 4.10's and a Ford 8.8 rear out of an explorer with the same 4.10's. All factory options and reasonably inexpensive.

Congrats on the new Jeep. It looks to be in real nice shape.
Thank you. I checked he differential and sure enough, 3.07.

Question is now- how difficult is it to swap the axle? Is that a speciality job or?
 

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Question is now- how difficult is it to swap the axle? Is that a speciality job or?
To swap the complete axle assembly it is pretty straight forward. Unhook the brake lines, drive shaft, shocks, 4wd assembly plug, and U bolts. Remove axle and put in the new one. hook everything back up and bleed the brakes. There are plenty of wright ups on an 8.8 swap. That will require a little welding.
 

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Make sure you change both axles at the same time. The front and rear axle ratios MUST match or you'll grenade your transfer case the first time you release the clutch with the Jeep in gear and the engine running.
If you absolutely must drive with only the rear replaced, remove the front driveshaft until you have proper gearing in both axles.

The best setup is the Ford 8.8 in 4:10 for the rear and a 4 cyl front axle. Close second for highway and easy off roading is both axles from a 4 cyl YJ
Don't rely on the axle tags. Pull the covers and look at the stampings on the ring gear.

Good Luck, L.M.
 
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Discussion Starter #18
I wasted the whole day driving around looking for ammo cans for my wheel wells. Guy on the phone was too lazy to check and assumed he had stuff he didn’t...

I think Sunday the goal is to pry apart the dash and troubleshoot that electrical system. None of the gauges work (speedo and tach do however) and after swapping a fuse the voltage and fuel gauge seem to work somewhat- how accurately I don’t know.

There’s got to be a few poor connections going on in here. It’s a 30 yr old Jeep. I’d like to get that licked. Hoping for the best
 

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^ Time and patience, hardly anything worked on mine when I got it, but a few hours cleaning connections, checking grounds and a few new fuses and everything works now, without having to source replacement parts. Don't forget to check your connections at the other end of the wires under the hood. Sensor connections get loose, grimy and corroded. read a couple dozen assorted electrical posts and you'll find more often than not it's a loose or corroded connection. In my world I'd rather fix the wiring before replacing a part and still having to come back to the wiring.
 

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^ Time and patience, hardly anything worked on mine when I got it, but a few hours cleaning connections, checking grounds and a few new fuses and everything works now, without having to source replacement parts. Don't forget to check your connections at the other end of the wires under the hood. Sensor connections get loose, grimy and corroded. read a couple dozen assorted electrical posts and you'll find more often than not it's a loose or corroded connection. In my world I'd rather fix the wiring before replacing a part and still having to come back to the wiring.
Very true. Problem is I can’t read the electrical diagram or figure where any of these wires go. I’ve git a Haynes manual and it seems a little lacking.

Nonetheless I fried pieces of the circuit board. I suppose I could bridge the gap with another piece of wire before buying a new board/gauges but how do I ascertain if the gauges themselves are bad and need replacement? For example I had continuity on things like fuel gauge and battery but not clock and temp to the wiring harness- are the wires attached to the harness supposed to detach? They don’t feel like they do.

I can’t find much when I search for gauges on the forum other than recommendations on new ones. Are there any proper electrical schematics you can suggest? As I said the Haynes is kinda shit- I don’t think there’s even anything in there for the gauges and their connections for the yj.
 
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