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Discussion Starter #1
Thanks to spending way too much time reading on this site, I'm ready to place an order for my lift in the morning. I know there's an infinite number of options, and you might have made different choices. What I'm really interested in is:

  1. Will any of the things I'm ordering not work well together?
  2. Are any of these things just bad components to be avoided?
  3. Is there anything I'm forgetting?
All this will be going on a 2014 JKURX with LoD bumpers, PowerPlant winch and 35" MTRs, including the spare. It's job will be to take us to the Colorado mountains every weekend possible, often with a bike on a hitch rack. We do lots of highway driving, and lots of backroad/offroad driving, and some real 4wheeling (e.g. Red Cone, for you Colorado guys), but not serious rock crawling (e.g. no Pritchett Canyon, if you've been to Moab. Might do Golden Spike, though.) I'm looking to break as little as possible out in the field, both because I much prefer working on things in the garage, and since we'll often be out alone. BTW, I'll be doing all the work.

Here's what I'm planning to order:

  • Rock Krawler 2.5" Flex kit (new, post 2/1/16 version)
  • Fox IFP shocks (28.25/15.15 and 24.75/15.65)
  • Rock Krawler rear sway bar links
  • Rock Krawler 3" fabricated rear bump stops
  • Crown brake lines (front and rear)
  • Teraflex spring retainer kit
  • Artec front axle armor kit
  • Artec rear axle truss
  • Northridge Grade 8 bolt kit
  • Fox ATS steering stabilizer
  • Synergy SS relocation bracket
  • 1.5" spacers on the stock RubiX wheels
At this time I'm not planning to get a steering box brace. Can I wait on that, or avoid it entirely? If not, which one would you suggest?

Also, if I melt the ball joints welding on the front axle, I'll run up to NAPA and get a set of their Gold ones.

Talk to me...

Mark
 

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Mark,

The Rock Krawler kit already includes front brake lines so you will not need the Crown lines. The rear sway bar links and brake lines are also not necessary as they are long enough for the Flex since it does not replace the rear control arms. The Artec trusses may be tight on the 2.5" kit so we may need to measure for bumpstops once they are installed to ensure you don't have clearance issues on uptravel. The arms will need to be drilled out 9/16" to accept the Grade 8 hardware kit. Sector shaft brace kit you can wait on for now but it would be a good option if you decide to start doing some harder trails or move up to a height and tire size where you would want hydro assist. The spacers are an easy install. The factory wheels are a little narrow for a 35x12.50 (17x7.5") but it can be done, you may just need to run a lower air pressure to help keep the tire from crowning.


-Tim
 

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Mark, The Rock Krawler kit already includes front brake lines so you will not need the Crown lines. The rear sway bar links and brake lines are also not necessary as they are long enough for the Flex since it does not replace the rear control arms. The Artec trusses may be tight on the 2.5" kit so we may need to measure for bumpstops once they are installed to ensure you don't have clearance issues on uptravel. The arms will need to be drilled out 9/16" to accept the Grade 8 hardware kit. Sector shaft brace kit you can wait on for now but it would be a good option if you decide to start doing some harder trails or move up to a height and tire size where you would want hydro assist. The spacers are an easy install. The factory wheels are a little narrow for a 35x12.50 (17x7.5") but it can be done, you may just need to run a lower air pressure to help keep the tire from crowning. -Tim
NR .. All RK's arms (lowers) and TB's accept 9/16. Been like that for a while.
 

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I would add new front sway bar links. I hated the RK links that came with my 3.5 x-factor and the Artec truss moves the link mounting location up making them too long. I would add JKS quicker disconnect links or JKS flex connect (preferred). Rick
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks guys. So, if the RK arms are drilled for 9/16", it seems safe to assume the come with 9/16" hardware, and wouldn't need the entire 9/16" kit, right? I could just get a bolt, or two from the HW store as needed, and be good, right?

@Heynowwww, thanks for the info on the disconnects. I think RK has changed the design of them recently. ( @Northridge4x4 , can you confirm that?) Also, did you have any issues welding the Artec to your axle? Did the ball joints survive the work?

For any of you running the Fox ATS stabilizer with an RK lift, do you know if the Synergy 8007 bracket is required to maintain the 9/16" bolt? I'm thinking of skipping the bracket and adding it later, if necessary.

Tim, I'm working with Bill from your shop, who's been great.

Mark
 

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i would add new front sway bar links. I hated the rk links that came with my 3.5 x-factor and the artec truss moves the link mounting location up making them too long. I would add jks quicker disconnect links or jks flex connect (preferred). Rick
+1.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The JKS Quicker Disconnects claim to only work with 2.5 to 6 inches of lift. If I have 2.5, but raise the mount point with the Artec truss, will they work?

Mark
 

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Slip the rear axle truss and substitute front C gussets and lower control arm skids. I have only heard of ONE person that bent a rear axle housing. Ever. I've heard of plenty that have bent a front. Unless you drive like a buffoon, or are building a 3 or 4 link rear suspension, you don't need the rear truss.

Also, take a look at the Barnes 4WD truss. It's cheaper and uses thicker steel. JCR Offload just came out with a new truss kit that looks really good.

If you've never welded on a front axle housing, do your research, it takes a careful approach.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Hardware is not included.
Thanks man!

Slip the rear axle truss and substitute front C gussets and lower control arm skids. I have only heard of ONE person that bent a rear axle housing. Ever.
I did some research tonight, and this makes a lot of sense. Thanks!

Mark
 

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Thanks guys. So, if the RK arms are drilled for 9/16", it seems safe to assume the come with 9/16" hardware, and wouldn't need the entire 9/16" kit, right? I could just get a bolt, or two from the HW store as needed, and be good, right?

@Heynowwww, thanks for the info on the disconnects. I think RK has changed the design of them recently. ( @Northridge4x4 , can you confirm that?) Also, did you have any issues welding the Artec to your axle? Did the ball joints survive the work?

For any of you running the Fox ATS stabilizer with an RK lift, do you know if the Synergy 8007 bracket is required to maintain the 9/16" bolt? I'm thinking of skipping the bracket and adding it later, if necessary.

Tim, I'm working with Bill from your shop, who's been great.

Mark
Mark, yes the disco's have been updated but I haven't seen any of the new style yet. JKS comes in 2 sizes, 0-2" or 2.5-6". My recommendation would be to install the truss first and use the RK discos then see if you need more/less and go from there.

-Tim
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Mark, yes the disco's have been updated but I haven't seen any of the new style yet. JKS comes in 2 sizes, 0-2" or 2.5-6". My recommendation would be to install the truss first and use the RK discos then see if you need more/less and go from there.

-Tim
Yeah, I think that's what I'll do. You guys quoted the new RK ones - RK04771K - so I'll try them and see what happens.

Mark
 

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COnsider a Big Brake Kit. I did the TF kit front and rear when I went up to 37s. Huge improvement over stock. Might save your ass to on the highway.
 
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