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One Happy Camper
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246 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm ready to click the trigger and put the Recon onto 37s, but I'd like to run my plan by the forum to make sure I'm doing this right. Please let me know if I am missing anything critical, or if you suggest a different option. This is a weekend warrior, I want to rock crawl all day and be able to drive home on the highway. Moderate difficulty at first then move up to the harder stuff.

-----Now-----
Tires, Wheels, Brakes, Fenders

  • 5x Nitto Trail Grapplers; 37x12.5R17
  • 5x MT Classic III Wheels; 17x9 w/ 4.5" BS
  • Dynatrac ProGrip Brake System
  • TeraFlex Stainless Steel front and rear brake lines
  • SuperChips FlashCal F5
  • MetalCloak Overland fenders; front, rear, and liners
Lift++

  • MetalCloak 3.5" GameChanger - RockSport Edition
  • MetalCloak Rear Coil Spring Alignment Correction/Retainer
  • Dana Spicer front driveshaft w/ sealed centering ball
  • Yeti XD Tie Rod
  • Yeti XD Draglink w/ Griffin XD attenuator
Gears and front axle

  • 5.13 Yukon gears
  • RCV Ultimate D44 front axle set
  • Dynatrac HD Prosteer Ball Joints
  • Reid Racing HD Knuckles

-----Phase 2-----

  • RCV Ultimate D44 rear axle set
  • Artec rear axle truss
  • PSC Hydro assist
  • move West


The Artec front axle armor kit you may be looking for is not listed. Since I have the J8 tube already, I thought it would be more advantageous to upgrade the axle shaft instead; joined by HD knuckles and ball joints, I'm hoping it's a non-issue.
 

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Premium Member
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3,104 Posts
I'm ready to click the trigger and put the Recon onto 37s, but I'd like to run my plan by the forum to make sure I'm doing this right. Please let me know if I am missing anything critical, or if you suggest a different option. This is a weekend warrior, I want to rock crawl all day and be able to drive home on the highway. Moderate difficulty at first then move up to the harder stuff.

-----Now-----
Tires, Wheels, Brakes, Fenders

  • 5x Nitto Trail Grapplers; 37x12.5R17
  • 5x MT Classic III Wheels; 17x9 w/ 4.5" BS
  • Dynatrac ProGrip Brake System
  • TeraFlex Stainless Steel front and rear brake lines
  • SuperChips FlashCal F5
  • MetalCloak Overland fenders; front, rear, and liners
Lift++

  • MetalCloak 3.5" GameChanger - RockSport Edition
  • MetalCloak Rear Coil Spring Alignment Correction/Retainer
  • Dana Spicer front driveshaft w/ sealed centering ball
  • Yeti XD Tie Rod
  • Yeti XD Draglink w/ Griffin XD attenuator
Gears and front axle

  • 5.13 Yukon gears
  • RCV Ultimate D44 front axle set
  • Dynatrac HD Prosteer Ball Joints
  • Reid Racing HD Knuckles

-----Phase 2-----

  • RCV Ultimate D44 rear axle set
  • Artec rear axle truss
  • PSC Hydro assist
  • move West


The Artec front axle armor kit you may be looking for is not listed. Since I have the J8 tube already, I thought it would be more advantageous to upgrade the axle shaft instead; joined by HD knuckles and ball joints, I'm hoping it's a non-issue.
You build list looks complete and well thought out. What are the spec differences on the J8 compared with the Rubicon D44? Is it just a thicker tube?

I think the last improvement on your list is the best one......:happyyes:



-Steven
 

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One Happy Camper
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246 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I think the last improvement on your list is the best one......:happyyes:
haha, yes I agree! :thumb:

You build list looks complete and well thought out. What are the spec differences on the J8 compared with the Rubicon D44? Is it just a thicker tube?
Thanks! If I'm not mistaken it's just a thicker tube wall with heavier brackets, same everything else.
 

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Super Moderator
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8,238 Posts
I would still truss that axle if you will be crawling. Truss bridges the tube and pumpkin to also protect against bending at the pumpkin.
 

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One Happy Camper
Joined
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246 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Truss bridges the tube and pumpkin to also protect against bending at the pumpkin.
oohhh that makes sense. I dropped the Reid knuckles from the list and added the Artec front axle armor kit.
 

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Premium Member
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3,104 Posts
Have you looked at the PCS XD instead of the Hydro? I'm wondering if that would give a more "natural" steering feel than the hydro boost?


-Steven
 

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Super Moderator
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8,238 Posts
Have you looked at the PCS XD instead of the Hydro? I'm wondering if that would give a more "natural" steering feel than the hydro boost?


-Steven
For crawling, I would stay with hydroassist. Rumor was that PSC was going to come out with a version of XD ported for hydroassist, but I haven't seen any update on that. XD gives you a stronger box, hydroassist gives you hydraulic help. Different things.
 

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Premium Member
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3,104 Posts
For crawling, I would stay with hydroassist. Rumor was that PSC was going to come out with a version of XD ported for hydroassist, but I haven't seen any update on that. XD gives you a stronger box, hydroassist gives you hydraulic help. Different things.
How's the steering feel with the hydro assist at speed?


-Steven
 

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Super Moderator
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8,238 Posts
How's the steering feel with the hydro assist at speed?


-Steven
It takes a day or two to get used to, but after that, you don't even really realize it is there. Everyone out here who crawls that I regularly wheel with either already has it or wants it.

Also, a sub-bonus of the RCVs is you don't just get stronger shafts, it eliminates the ujoint and steering bind altogether. With hydroassist, you can be front locked on an obstacle and turn steering lock to steering lock with one finger AND without bind thanks to RCVs.
 

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Registered
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501 Posts
There is a lot of slack available in the stock brake lines once you remove the brackets. May not need the brake lines.

I am not sure what's in the MC kit. Are you flipping the draglink and raising track bars? It'll help tremendously with road manners.

Consider the Yeti attenuator. I was skeptical and my set up was pretty tight, but it did remove the (ever so slight) wheel feed back I occasionally felt.

My solo install time was basically a slow paced weekend. Allows for a lot of sitting and contemplating as well as cleaning and detailing stuff as you go. Maybe a trip or two for a missing tool.

Post em up when you're done.
 

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One Happy Camper
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246 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
There is a lot of slack available in the stock brake lines once you remove the brackets. May not need the brake lines.

I am not sure what's in the MC kit. Are you flipping the draglink and raising track bars? It'll help tremendously with road manners.

Consider the Yeti attenuator. I was skeptical and my set up was pretty tight, but it did remove the (ever so slight) wheel feed back I occasionally felt.

My solo install time was basically a slow paced weekend. Allows for a lot of sitting and contemplating as well as cleaning and detailing stuff as you go. Maybe a trip or two for a missing tool.

Post em up when you're done.

Just looked at the MC kit again and sure enough it has braided stainless lines already included. Thanks for catching that!

Wasn't planning to flip the DL, definitely going right for the XD attenuator though, got that on the list.


For the time being I have to do my wrenching parallel parked on the side of a busy street. Sometimes Jeepers stop to talk so I get to ask questions; the married guys on the block all come out to talk about what I'm working on, then pile into some suv/minivan hahaha. Once I get this list finalized I'll need to sort out what I can do and what I will need the shop to do. Then I'm riding West!

Definitely pics to follow, here's the one that moved 37's so far up in my timetable. p.s. this is how I went from a 2dr Willys to a 4dr Recon, my logic + Jeep = slippery slope...
 

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Research and consider that drag link flip. You're borderline at 3.5" but most lifts net more than called out.

I did it with 3" synergy springs that netted closer to 4" (stock plastic bumpers). It requires a front track bar relocation (raised) bracket and that requires front bumpstops.

Keeping the drag link and track bar angles down helps reduce feed back to the steering and frame.

Also - since your going to have it apart look at the synergy (or others) frame side bolt on track bar reinforcements.

Oh. And depending what comes in you're kit. Grab a bolt upgrade kit. It's nice to swap out the stock bolts, at least the ones you've already pulled during the install.
 

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Premium Member
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3,104 Posts
Yes you will have longer brake lines with the MC GC lift. If I recall correctly, they also include upgraded bolts. I'm running the 3.5" G.C. myself, and went high steer when I upgraded to the Steersmarts linkage. I used the MetalClock drag link flip bracket. I netted over 4" of lift on mine, so flipping the drag link helped my geometry. More things to consider.



-Steven
 
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Just don't order the drag link until you decide. The Yeti top mount drag link takes all the difficulty out of flip steer.

Drop it in and torque it down - done.
 

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Premium Member
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3,104 Posts
Just don't order the drag link until you decide. The Yeti top mount drag link takes all the difficulty out of flip steer.

Drop it in and torque it down - done.
What he said:happyyes:


-Steven
 

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One Happy Camper
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246 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
welp, I'm sold on the DL flip. Seems like plenty of benefits and a straightforward install. The Artec axle armor kit lets you choose factory or raised height trackbar brackets too.

Thanks!
 

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welp, I'm sold on the DL flip. Seems like plenty of benefits and a straightforward install. The Artec axle armor kit lets you choose factory or raised height trackbar brackets too.

Thanks!
There you go.

That's why knowing your end game and planning ahead is important.

Now you're all prepared for the inevitable "inchitis".

Make sure you post pics when you step up to those 40's
 

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Is your JK heavy right now? front/rear bump, aftermarket armor underneath, aftemarket sliders? If not you'll net around 4" with that lift. That's not a bad thing, but should be noted.
 

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One Happy Camper
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246 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Is your JK heavy right now? front/rear bump, aftermarket armor underneath, aftemarket sliders? If not you'll net around 4" with that lift. That's not a bad thing, but should be noted.
It's on the heavier side already for a stock JK. I plan to keep the 10a front and rear steel bumpers with the HD Recon rock rails that came from the factory. I also have a full set of (steel) rock hard skids already on; winch, twin OBA, and sPOD will all be installed within the next week.

I'm hoping for a net gain of 3.5", but as long as it's not less than 3" I'll be happy. The Recon springs give me an extra 0.5" so that will get subtracted with the new ones.
 

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It's on the heavier side already for a stock JK. I plan to keep the 10a front and rear steel bumpers with the HD Recon rock rails that came from the factory. I also have a full set of (steel) rock hard skids already on; winch, twin OBA, and sPOD will all be installed within the next week.

I'm hoping for a net gain of 3.5", but as long as it's not less than 3" I'll be happy. The Recon springs give me an extra 0.5" so that will get subtracted with the new ones.
Metalcloak is 3.5 with full armor. You'll be fine.
 
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