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Hello. I've just bought a 4.0 manual wrangler and it's completely stock except for 31" tires and a rear lunchbox locker. I noticed that when I'm driving on trails and I step on it a little bit in 1st or 2nd gear the rear tires will break loose a bit. It's a lot of fun however I feel like I want to get rid of the locker because I hate the clicking noise it makes and it makes me not want to press the gas pedal when turning.

My question is if I do get rid of it, will the jeep still behave the same in a straight line on the trails? will the rear tires still break loose when I step on it? because from what I know in an open differential the power is sent to the wheel with the least traction so I'm not sure.
 

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double post
 

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If you have a Dana 35 in your heap you don't want a lunchbox locker in there. The 27 spline axles are not up to job.

You could upgrade to a Detroit or any selectable locker that accepts 30 spline shafts and a set of 30 spline 1541H shafts or put a set of stock spider gears in there.

You're right never power through a turn on hard pavement with a full locker, coast in turns.
 

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Hello. I've just bought a 4.0 manual wrangler and it's completely stock except for 31" tires and a rear lunchbox locker. I noticed that when I'm driving on trails and I step on it a little bit in 1st or 2nd gear the rear tires will break loose a bit. It's a lot of fun however I feel like I want to get rid of the locker because I hate the clicking noise it makes and it makes me not want to press the gas pedal when turning.

My question is if I do get rid of it, will the jeep still behave the same in a straight line on the trails? will the rear tires still break loose when I step on it? because from what I know in an open differential the power is sent to the wheel with the least traction so I'm not sure.



If you cant live with the popping and clicking you can put spider gears back in and go back to one wheel peel. If you like the traction it provides run thick gear oil and dont floor it around corners, try to coast around them or use very light throttle.
 

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Best compromise of both worlds would be a tru trac
 

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Best compromise of both worlds would be a tru trac
That’s what I did. Now saving up for a selectable locker up front. Either an Eaton E-Locker or Ox locker. Don’t want to deal with compressed air or onboard compressor.
 
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You might consider a set of 27 spline 1541H axle shafts to go with that LSD just for peace of mind with a little added strength.
 
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I noticed that when I'm driving on trails and I step on it a little bit in 1st or 2nd gear the rear tires will break loose a bit.
With the rear locker, both tires are getting power under throttle. If they are both breaking loose, you will probably be going no where with an open diff in the same situation. There are certainly trade offs to having a mechanical locker. They can be a little noisy and they cause tire wear if you run them on the street, but they provide traction. That is what they are for. If you want the traction that you have to get places off road you can either live with what you have, upgrade to a selectable locker, or go with a limited slip. Going back to an open diff would certainly limit your off road abilities... a lot.
 

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With the rear locker, both tires are getting power under throttle. If they are both breaking loose, you will probably be going no where with an open diff in the same situation. There are certainly trade offs to having a mechanical locker. They can be a little noisy and they cause tire wear if you run them on the street, but they provide traction. That is what they are for. If you want the traction that you have to get places off road you can either live with what you have, upgrade to a selectable locker, or go with a limited slip. Going back to an open diff would certainly limit your off road abilities... a lot.
No, the OP can't live with what he has, it's a lunchbox in a D35 which is one of the biggest No-No's there is. An open diff or an LSD, either with 1541H 27 spline shafts or build a S35 with 30 spline 1541H shafts. It seems that the OP likes to spin tires by his own admission and a stock D35 with a lunchbox will end up leaving him stranded.
 

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Hello. I've just bought a 4.0 manual wrangler and it's completely stock except for 31" tires and a rear lunchbox locker. I noticed that when I'm driving on trails and I step on it a little bit in 1st or 2nd gear the rear tires will break loose a bit. It's a lot of fun however I feel like I want to get rid of the locker because I hate the clicking noise it makes and it makes me not want to press the gas pedal when turning.

My question is if I do get rid of it, will the jeep still behave the same in a straight line on the trails? will the rear tires still break loose when I step on it? because from what I know in an open differential the power is sent to the wheel with the least traction so I'm not sure.
OP, do you know if what rear axle you have? Does it have a rubber round fill plug? as noted if it is the Dana 35, and has not be upgraded.. you have a high chance that locker under the right conditions, will bust an axle shaft.

The least expensive route to take, after you confirm what rear axle you have, would be to look for a use dana 35 with the same gears and swap that in.. crack the cover to make sure its a open diff. problem solved.
 

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Just a thought. Could OP switch the rear lunchbox with the front spiders? Then, with the lunchbox up front, he'd have the traction off road that he might need and the road manners he's wanting in the rear. With the Jeep in 2wd, the lunchbox up front would disappear until the Jeep was in 4wd.
Plus, he'd get to change both the differential fluids and be able to check for any possible wear or problems. The only costs he'd incur is some differential fluid and a tube of RTV.
I just don't know if the D35 spiders are the same as the D30 spiders. If they are, the lunchbox should swap easily. OP might go to the Aussie website to see if the front and rear lockers are the same.

Good Luck, L.M.
 

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Just a thought. Could OP switch the rear lunchbox with the front spiders? Then, with the lunchbox up front, he'd have the traction off road that he might need and the road manners he's wanting in the rear. With the Jeep in 2wd, the lunchbox up front would disappear until the Jeep was in 4wd.
Plus, he'd get to change both the differential fluids and be able to check for any possible wear or problems. The only costs he'd incur is some differential fluid and a tube of RTV.
I just don't know if the D35 spiders are the same as the D30 spiders. If they are, the lunchbox should swap easily. OP might go to the Aussie website to see if the front and rear lockers are the same.

Good Luck, L.M.
Good idea but it won't work D30 and D35 are not the same

OP, do you know if what rear axle you have? Does it have a rubber round fill plug? as noted if it is the Dana 35, and has not be upgraded.. you have a high chance that locker under the right conditions, will bust an axle shaft.

The least expensive route to take, after you confirm what rear axle you have, would be to look for a use dana 35 with the same gears and swap that in.. crack the cover to make sure its a open diff. problem solved.
Unless you get a heck of a deal on a used D35. It would cost more to swap a used axle in than a set of spiders. If you got bad spiders in the junk yard axle which is a good possibility then it would be even more costly. Junk yard D35's go for around $400 where I live, someones take out would be cheaper, maybe.
 

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Good idea but it won't work D30 and D35 are not the same



Unless you get a heck of a deal on a used D35. It would cost more to swap a used axle in than a set of spiders. If you got bad spiders in the junk yard axle which is a good possibility then it would be even more costly. Junk yard D35's go for around $400 where I live, someones take out would be cheaper, maybe.
$400 geez that is nutz for a dana 35. picked up a ford 8.8 here for $120 w/4.11..from a pull yard. So dana 35's are in priced in line with that... but as noted location and supply will drive cost.
 

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$400 geez that is nutz for a dana 35. picked up a ford 8.8 here for $120 w/4.11..from a pull yard. So dana 35's are priced in line with that... but as noted location and supply will drive cost.
Glad your happy with that 8.8, by the time you add the mounts, do the conversion you have more into an axle that most builders wouldn't touch with a 10-foot pole, could be why they are so cheap. I know they are popular on these forums, doesn't make them a great for everyone though.

Some folks are just fine with a bolt in axle housing even a D35. I would rather build a Super 35 than do an 8.8.
 

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Fwiw I beat a 35 pretty hard for a few years w a lockright and stock shafts on 31" swampers and never broke it....

Video proof of my wheeling style....
No this vid wasn't hard on the axle... just showing that I did more than idle around....

 

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Glad your happy with that 8.8, by the time you add the mounts, do the conversion you have more into an axle that most builders wouldn't touch with a 10-foot pole, could be why they are so cheap. I know they are popular on these forums, doesn't make them a great for everyone though.

Some folks are just fine with a bolt in axle housing even a D35. I would rather build a Super 35 than do an 8.8.
I agree 8.8 is not for everyone, but when you price out a dana 44 starting at 1k used.. that still needs still a gear change, locker, spring pads or even a decent upgrade to the super 35(clone at this point) that not cheap either, and at the end of day you still have a dana 35. Thus for many of us the 8.8 makes sense as there are no exact bolt in housing outside another dana 35, so anything is going to need work. Certainly far less expense than my ProRock 60 Build.
 

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Glad your happy with that 8.8, by the time you add the mounts, do the conversion you have more into an axle that most builders wouldn't touch with a 10-foot pole, could be why they are so cheap. I know they are popular on these forums, doesn't make them a great for everyone though.

Some folks are just fine with a bolt in axle housing even a D35. I would rather build a Super 35 than do an 8.8.
To put an 8.8 in a YJ, you really don't need to spend a ton of money... no where near the cost of a super 35 kit... $1200 :jawdrop: You still have a Dana 35 with a weak housing and drum brakes.

Spring mounts... $40

https://www.ballisticfabrication.com/products/leaf-spring-perch

Shock Mounts... $25

https://www.ballisticfabrication.com/products/axle-tube-shock-bracket

Maybe a couple miscellenous pieces of brake line... $10
 

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To put an 8.8 in a YJ, you really don't need to spend a ton of money... no where near the cost of a super 35 kit... $1200 You still have a Dana 35 with a weak housing and drum brakes.

Spring mounts... $40

https://www.ballisticfabrication.com/products/leaf-spring-perch

Shock Mounts... $25

https://www.ballisticfabrication.com/products/axle-tube-shock-bracket
Maybe a couple miscellenous pieces of brake line... $10

By the time you build an 8.8 with a locker or a TruTrac, it would be more expensive to do an 8.8 compared to an S35 especially if the owner can't do his own fab work and set up drive line angles.

If I were to do the work to swap in an 8.8, it would be a 9" instead.

In all honesty my S35 has been performing beautifully in the conditions I wheel in. And can take a heck of a beating with up to 35" tires.

But, to each his own... It's more about how you want/need your Jeep built for what it needs to do, somethings are overkill, somethings have to be done. I don't build for bragging rights, I build for function.
 
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