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Discussion Starter #1
I have the one with 2 holes, and had it installed in the upper hole thinking that was the position needed for 2-2.25" lift.

I didn't pay too much attention to whether the axel was centered or not for about the 4 months i've had the setup in place, until my brother in law pointed out, my rear driver tire looked to be sticking out more than the the passenger side a couple of days ago, It seems to be about 1" using the rear fenders as reference points, and of course, the more i stare at the rear tires, the more i think i have some sort of OCD kicking in bothering the crap out of me :)

bar set at the upper hole
2015-12-30_01-20-23 by SilverFJ RSM, on Flickr


What would be easiest way to get this fixed ? i'd assume the bar must be pushing the axel towards the driver side because of the bracket position, Do i need to raise the driver side from the shock mount first ? or can i do this it with both tires in the ground ? i'd assume i'll need to use a strap to bring the axel a little towards the passenger side before bolting the bar into the lower hole ?

Thanks a lot.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Well just looking at the TF install video, i should not need to lift the rear at all, just unbolt, set at the lower hole and bolt the thing down.
 

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correct. some just having someone push on the side of the jeep will help line it up. we did a lift on a TJ the other night and it took two guys on the bumper to get the holes lined up.
 

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I did my front today w/ an adjustable track bar. Once I figured the length I needed/ wanted to try ( it took several) I raised/ lowered the driver side axle until the holes lines up.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Done, freaking bracket hole gave me some grieve, mostly cause the wife didn't want to push :), but the ol ratchet strap, combined with some hammer time saved the night.

2015-12-30_05-51-02 by SilverFJ RSM, on Flickr
 

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Basically every bracket over corrects for a 2.5 lift. The least amount of vertical correction you can do is about 3" and you only lift the rear 2".

My OCD meant a shorter than stock rear track bar was needed... Then you can take advantage of the additional roll center increase and still use the top hole.

This thread shows how we got to where we are...

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f202/shorter-rear-track-bar-1183905.html
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Is the rear axle centered now?
Visually it looks better, but it was dark when I finished, and I had to run to the Gym. I'll see how it looks tomorrow during day time, i didn't take the time to measure exactly though, but visually it was very apparent the shift towards the driver side.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Basically every bracket over corrects for a 2.5 lift. The least amount of vertical correction you can do is about 3" and you only lift the rear 2".
My OCD meant a shorter than stock rear track bar was needed... Then you can take advantage of the additional roll center increase and still use the top hole.

This thread shows how we got to where we are...

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f202/shorter-rear-track-bar-1183905.html
Thanks for the leg work, i'll keep that bar in mind, Superlift 5771 for reference in case i need to go back to this thread to check for it.
 

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suspension soooooo cleeeaaan.....:D
 

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I just installed this swaybar. With minimal lift (My RK 1.5 springs have sagged down to around 3/4 inch on the rear (5 3/4 to 5 7/8 measurement now with heavy bumper with tire carrier) I was able to center the axle using the top hole of my TF three hole bracket. only problem was hitting the tailpipe before bottoming on the bumpstops so I moved it to the second hole. If I ever change my exhaust I will get something that will allow me to use the top hole.
 

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I just installed this swaybar. With minimal lift (My RK 1.5 springs have sagged down to around 3/4 inch on the rear (5 3/4 to 5 7/8 measurement now with heavy bumper with tire carrier) I was able to center the axle using the top hole of my TF three hole bracket. only problem was hitting the tailpipe before bottoming on the bumpstops so I moved it to the second hole. If I ever change my exhaust I will get something that will allow me to use the top hole.
What size bump stop? The lower lift heights with smaller bump stops allow more up travel. Mine does just touch the exhaust, but I'm planning a custom exhaust re-route so it doesn't matter to me.
 

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I just installed this swaybar. With minimal lift (My RK 1.5 springs have sagged down to around 3/4 inch on the rear (5 3/4 to 5 7/8 measurement now with heavy bumper with tire carrier) I was able to center the axle using the top hole of my TF three hole bracket. only problem was hitting the tailpipe before bottoming on the bumpstops so I moved it to the second hole. If I ever change my exhaust I will get something that will allow me to use the top hole.
you could add an inch spacer in back or go with some 2.5" coils. I ended up adding a 1 spacer on the back with my RK 2.5" coils as they sagged.
 

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Bumpstops are about 1 1/2 ", I've got plenty of up travel. I may go to the 2.5" coils in the future, as of now the stance of the Jeep looks good with my chopped fenders. I really noticed the sag when I saw that my SB links look too long now lol. When I first put the coils on I had a full 2" of lift in the rear with stock bumper. With heavy bumper and tire carrier (before my 35" spare) I had 1.5"
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Wanted to update the thread as lowering that bar fixed another issue I had, one that I never thought was related to it, and it's actually one that was bothering me visually for the past 4 months since I got the lift installed, driver rear corner was almost 1" higher than the rest of the Jeep.

Initially I thought it was the rear passenger spring bowing worst that the driver side for whatever reason, had RK correction wedges installed trying to fix this behavior, and the lean was still present, plus I ended up with an extra 1/2" lift in the back, which I ended up liking, but the lean was still there, so I learned to block the image from my mind :), and simply tried to use an oversized tool bag with a bunch of tools, and an extra box with straps and crap, all piled up on the driver rear side, to make the lean a little bit better, it didn't do crap anyways, but to my surprise, I'm looking at it today, and I'm thinking, where in the hell is my rear driver side lean ? lol, now the rear measures the same, 23 1/4" taken from the center wheel to the fender flare edges, front is 22 1/4".

Also tried to take some measurements of the tires sticking out of the fender in the back, not very scientific, but i'll say I don't have more than 1/4" diff, which to me is more than ok.

Also I don't know if it's in my mind, but somehow the ride seems better with the trackbar in the lower hole, I take the same corners every day to get to the office, more or less at the same speed, and today, without focusing on it, the turns felt smoother, like the rear was more cushier, and my speed was almost 3-4mph higher than normal. again, this is not very scientific and could simply be a placebo effect because I know I worked on the that bar yesterday.

In any case, thanks a lot for all the suggestions and recommendations, loving this site more every day, and I continue to learn more and more about this platform, and for that, thanks a lot everybody.

Happy new year
 

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Minor changes in suspension can have some pretty significant results. It's why we spend so much time and money on the right components.

Although I am not sure that moving the track bar down would lower the driver's rear. That would be interesting to hear from the suspension experts on the forum. Dumb question, but did you have a full tank of gas when you looked at it again? I notice my passenger side is always a bit lower when I have a full tank of gas. The extra weight and all.
 
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