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Got the lift kit on Sunday, picked it up yesterday and drove it 10 miles home. Feels a little flighty and darts around the road, hopefully that will be resolved with the new wheels/tires and alignment. Soaks up bumps nicely down the bumpy road.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2,382 · (Edited)
Got the lift kit on Sunday, picked it up yesterday and drove it 10 miles home. Feels a little flighty and darts around the road, hopefully that will be resolved with the new wheels/tires and alignment. Soaks up bumps nicely down the bumpy road.
Tire PSI and Caster (+/- close to 5*) is what will negate that flightiness.

The caster relief is going to come from adj LCA's or GeoCorr Brackets.
 

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Tire PSI and Caster (+/- close to 5*) is what will negate that flightiness.

The caster relief is going to come from adj LCA's or GeoCorr Brackets.

Yup. And if you take it to a shop for alignment they really can't do anything except try to talk you into cambolts for the caster. Please don't let them. You're much better off with Adjustable LCAs or Geo Correction Brackets. Have them check it and get a printout so we can see where you are.
 

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Got the lift kit on Sunday, picked it up yesterday and drove it 10 miles home. Feels a little flighty and darts around the road, hopefully that will be resolved with the new wheels/tires and alignment. Soaks up bumps nicely down the bumpy road.
Tire PSI and Caster (+/- close to 5*) is what will negate that flightiness.

The caster relief is going to come from adj LCA's or GeoCorr Brackets.
Yup. And if you take it to a shop for alignment they really can't do anything except try to talk you into cambolts for the caster. Please don't let them. You're much better off with Adjustable LCAs or Geo Correction Brackets. Have them check it and get a printout so we can see where you are.
I would make sure you know what the caster is before like dodgeman said, so you have a reference of where you're starting at. I'm a cheap SOB so I went with the fixed Tera Flex Sport LCA's, which are longer than stock. I ended up right at 4.6 degrees post install, and she drives like a dream.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2,385 ·
May be useful (maybe not) When you are looking for alignment shops. Around here they will check for free (charge if they do something to bring it in spec)
That said, IF your shops won't do that ask if they will at least do a re-check for free IF you are low on caster and install adj LCA's and want to see where you end up.

I have the Rancho adj LCA's (22 7/8") and I am at 5*. Jeep drives GREAT.
 

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I really thought the adjustment on the 9000 shocks was going to be BS when I bought this kit. I WAS WRONG. I had been running 4 front and 5 rear from other member recommendations.
I cranked them all up 3 settings to pull my boat around not knowing how it would do on the lower adjustments and completely forgot about changing the settings back when I was done. Cruising around yesterday it felt like the leaves I was running over were going beat me to death.
I crawled under and switched it back this morning to 4 and 5 and my butt and back are now happy again. I’m amazed how these things really do work.


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The reason you might want to install a new track bar would be two fold. First, a new track bar could be a stronger track bar then stock. Second, a new track bar could also be adjustable, allowing you to center the axle side to side under the Jeep. Some people don't care if the axle is centered, and that is fine. But I would be bugged about my axle not being centered, and thus my tires not being even.
Another track bar related thing is the rear track bar bracket. You can install one of them to improve the angle the rear track bar runs at and thus improve the way your lifted Jeep handles.

I installed this lift. Also installed eight adjustable control arms...castor/pinion angles good and centered wheels in wheel wells.

Now I've decided to replace my stock track bars...I do have a little off center axle in both front and rear. And always not bad to beef up components. I'm installing an adjustable Yeti XD in front and a Teraflex in the rear.

I've also done some research on the rear track bar relocation bracket that you discussed. I ordered the Teraflex relocation bracket.

But, the more I read the more I begin to over analyze! Some describe that if you change one track bar's mount point, you should also change the other, e.g., if you lift the rear TB axle mount point then you should also lift the front TB axle mount point the same distance. If I followed that concept, then I'd need to install a front relocation bracket as well...no problem. But then the drag link and front track bar would no longer be parallel...so, need to install a top mount drag link??? Everything is indeed a chain reaction!

I'm beginning to think that with the small lift that I gained (less than 2"), maybe no need to install a rear relocation bracket, versus front and rear brackets and top mount drag link.

Any thoughts on if we relocate the rear TB axle mount point we should also relocate the front an equal distance??? I believe what I read indicated that changing the mount point on only one track bar may introduce inconsistent understeer when turning left versus right...top heavy/roll situation becomes more dangerous due to vehicle not reacting the same on a left maneuver versus right. Unbalanced handling, roll center and center of gravity become issues??? As I said...over analyzing!
 

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It's safe to raise the rear roll center without raising the front, raising the front without raising the rear is dangerous. Raising both is cool but you need to do a flipped drag link to raise the front. People don't do it on smaller lifts because they recommend 3 inches of bumpstop to keep the drag link from hitting the frame.
 

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It's safe to raise the rear roll center without raising the front, raising the front without raising the rear is dangerous. Raising both is cool but you need to do a flipped drag link to raise the front. People don't do it on smaller lifts because they recommend 3 inches of bumpstop to keep the drag link from hitting the frame.

Excellent. Thanks.

I'll install the Teraflex bracket on the rear and see how it goes.
 

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Rancho 2" Rs9000 lift with Cooper AT3 285/75R17s and 1" metal cloak bumpstops in the rear. She'll flex with the sway bar disconnected with just the slightest rub on the front fender, but it'll do more than mall crawling.
 

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285/75r17s rubbed off road with the swaybar disconnected on my ride. I did some minor fender trimming instead of adding bumpstop.
Got a pic of what you removed? I have the same minor rubbing and its so slight I can't tell where is happening.
 

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Anymore before/after photos with this lift?


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I'll get some more on Friday. Getting 295-70r17 Firestone MT2's mounted on the stock Rubicon rims. Already have the spidertrax installed.
 

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Got a pic of what you removed? I have the same minor rubbing and its so slight I can't tell where is happening.
https://ibb.co/i6rMO8
That's what it looks like now. I made some room where the center plastic rivet used to attach. The hard plastic on the inner fender that the rivet went into was hitting so I chopped about a half inch of that off. You can see the holes for the two adjacent rivets, I took them out but I could have probably left them in if I knew what I was doing. There was another piece in the front under the fender that covered the marker light wire that got chopped off.
https://ibb.co/nbHHwT
I had to extend the cut almost to the adjacent rivets to make room for the wheel to turn when stuffed.

In the rear I removed the inner fenders and cut the whole lip off where the plastic rivets attached. I did that before I got the tires, I'm not sure how bad the rubbing would have been with the fenders stock.
 

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https://ibb.co/i6rMO8
That's what it looks like now. I made some room where the center plastic rivet used to attach. The hard plastic on the inner fender that the rivet went into was hitting so I chopped about a half inch of that off. You can see the holes for the two adjacent rivets, I took them out but I could have probably left them in if I knew what I was doing. There was another piece in the front under the fender that covered the marker light wire that got chopped off.
https://ibb.co/nbHHwT
I had to extend the cut almost to the adjacent rivets to make room for the wheel to turn when stuffed.

In the rear I removed the inner fenders and cut the whole lip off where the plastic rivets attached. I did that before I got the tires, I'm not sure how bad the rubbing would have been with the fenders stock.
Thanks for the pics. I'll get in there with a flashlight and look for marks. The rubbing was loud, but the fender showed no signs of damage from what I could see. I have done no trimming other than the rubi rails (1 1/4) off the rear, and a few snips off the air dam for full lock. Without the 1" Metal Cloak bumpstops in the back I would have major contact on the rear.
 

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I got my Rancho 2" on today. I can't believe the difference in the ride with the new springs and adjustable shocks. It looks to me like its more than 2".

I'm still running the stock 17" rim and tire combo, but have purchased new 17x9 Black Rhino wheels to go on... Nitto 285/70/17's or 285/75/17's? I have the 3.21 gears in a manual shift.. don't wanna drop a bunch more money than I already have right now... so, what size tire you guys think?
 

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I got my Rancho 2" on today. I can't believe the difference in the ride with the new springs and adjustable shocks. It looks to me like its more than 2".

I'm still running the stock 17" rim and tire combo, but have purchased new 17x9 Black Rhino wheels to go on... Nitto 285/70/17's or 285/75/17's? I have the 3.21 gears in a manual shift.. don't wanna drop a bunch more money than I already have right now... so, what size tire you guys think?
285/70s would be what I would choose on a JKU with 3.21. I might go up on a two door though.
 

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Installed this kit a couple days ago. I only got to drive it home from my buddy’s house where we did the install, but what a difference over the Terflex 2.5 budget boost!
Along with the kit I installed a Yeti front track bar, rancho steering stabilizer, Rock Krawler QDiscos. I retained the rear track bar relocation bracket from the terflex kit for now. I’ll upgrade the rear track bar down the road.
I was going to use. 1/2” spacer up front, but from the looks I don’t think I’ll need it. I haven’t installed my winch yet, but if it says I’ll add the spacer.
So far very happy and impressed with this kit!



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Installed this kit a couple days ago. I only got to drive it home from my buddy’s house where we did the install, but what a difference over the Terflex 2.5 budget boost!
Along with the kit I installed a Yeti front track bar, rancho steering stabilizer, Rock Krawler QDiscos. I retained the rear track bar relocation bracket from the terflex kit for now. I’ll upgrade the rear track bar down the road.
I was going to use. 1/2” spacer up front, but from the looks I don’t think I’ll need it. I haven’t installed my winch yet, but if it says I’ll add the spacer.
So far very happy and impressed with this kit!



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Looks great, are those wheels plasti dipped? What type and color did you use? Cheers.


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