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Discussion Starter #1
Never had to replace shocks on lifted truck yet. So my question is whuch one's do I need? I want to get the Rancho rs9000 but they don't list a front and back for the hight of my jeep. I have a 2.5 lift on my jk. Now Ranchos site lists that they have a rear shock for lifts at 2.5 but no front. So I thought I'll get the ones for a 3.0. 🤔 They have a 3.0 for the front but not the rear. 😑 Do it need two different sizes? Or am I missing something. 🧐
 

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What lift do you have? When I had rancho 9000s I had rock krawler springs and ran shocks for a 4-6” lift since that was the size that best fit when looking at the shock length recommended by rock krawler.
 

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RS999329XL
RS999330XL


If you have long enough springs, go to the 331's in front.

What 2.5 springs do you have?
 

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I don't know what the brand of lift it is. Was lefted when I bought it.
Easy peazy... Stick with the 329's and 330's.

Hopefully it has bump stops added. With those shocks, you can get away with 1" front and rear, but you'll need 2" front and rear for 35" tires.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I don't know what the brand of lift it is. Was lefted when I bought it.
Easy peazy... Stick with the 329's and 330's.

Hopefully it has bump stops added. With those shocks, you can get away with 1" front and rear, but you'll need 2" front and rear for 35" tires.
I am running 35"s. So should I get the ones for the 3.0 and 3.5 then?
 

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I don't know what the brand of lift it is. Was lefted when I bought it.
Easy peazy... Stick with the 329's and 330's.

Hopefully it has bump stops added. With those shocks, you can get away with 1" front and rear, but you'll need 2" front and rear for 35" tires.
I am running 35"s. So should I get the ones for the 3.0 and 3.5 then?
The 329's and 330's are fine .. if you are running 35's and stock fenders, you just want to make sure you have 2" bump stops added.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I don't know what the brand of lift it is. Was lefted when I bought it.
Easy peazy... Stick with the 329's and 330's.

Hopefully it has bump stops added. With those shocks, you can get away with 1" front and rear, but you'll need 2" front and rear for 35" tires.
I am running 35"s. So should I get the ones for the 3.0 and 3.5 then?
The 329's and 330's are fine .. if you are running 35's and stock fenders, you just want to make sure you have 2" bump stops added.
I am running the stock fenders right now but I plan to going to flat fenders at some point.
 

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I don't know what the brand of lift it is. Was lefted when I bought it.
Easy peazy... Stick with the 329's and 330's.

Hopefully it has bump stops added. With those shocks, you can get away with 1" front and rear, but you'll need 2" front and rear for 35" tires.
I am running 35"s. So should I get the ones for the 3.0 and 3.5 then?
The 329's and 330's are fine .. if you are running 35's and stock fenders, you just want to make sure you have 2" bump stops added.
I am running the stock fenders right now but I plan to going to flat fenders at some point.
Take a picture of your front springs and rear axle so we can see what you have.

It would be optimal to have adjustable bump stops like the Metalcloak, so you could go from 2" to 1" when you put on the flat fenders... But this is NOT critical.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
[/QUOTE]
Take a picture of your front springs and rear axle so we can see what you have.

It would be optimal to have adjustable bump stops like the Metalcloak, so you could go from 2" to 1" when you put on the flat fenders... But this is NOT critical.[/QUOTE]

I know it not pretty but I live in the Salt belt so it to be expected.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I don't know what the brand of lift it is. Was lefted when I bought it.
Easy peazy... Stick with the 329's and 330's.

Hopefully it has bump stops added. With those shocks, you can get away with 1" front and rear, but you'll need 2" front and rear for 35" tires.
I am running 35"s. So should I get the ones for the 3.0 and 3.5 then?
The 329's and 330's are fine .. if you are running 35's and stock fenders, you just want to make sure you have 2" bump stops added.
I am running the stock fenders right now but I plan to going to flat fenders at some point.
Take a picture of your front springs and rear axle so we can see what you have.

It would be optimal to have adjustable bump stops like the Metalcloak, so you could go from 2" to 1" when you put on the flat fenders... But this is NOT critical.
A bit rusty
 

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Take a picture of your front springs and rear axle so we can see what you have.

It would be optimal to have adjustable bump stops like the Metalcloak, so you could go from 2" to 1" when you put on the flat fenders... But this is NOT critical.[/QUOTE]

I know it not pretty but I live in the Salt belt so it to be expected.[/QUOTE]

May be expected, but doesn't have to be accepted! Check out the Sticky Fluid Film thread at the end to see what a little rust converter and bed liner can transform your undercarriage!

https://www.wranglerforum.com/f274/the-end-all-fluid-film-thread-1267809-48.html
 

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A bit rusty
Ok, I think you have a big sagging spring problem. You look to have 2" bump stops front and rear, but you have almost zero suspension travel from the bump stop to the pad. When the bump stop hits the pad so quickly, it causes a harsh ride over any bumps.

To confirm my theory, get these measurements and report back, these are stock measurements and will tell us where you are sitting right now:



 

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Discussion Starter #17
A bit rusty
Ok, I think you have a big sagging spring problem. You look to have 2" bump stops front and rear, but you have almost zero suspension travel from the bump stop to the pad. When the bump stop hits the pad so quickly, it causes a harsh ride over any bumps.

To confirm my theory, get these measurements and report back, these are stock measurements and will tell us where you are sitting right now:



Since you pointed it out. The springs are sagging. Theres only about an 1 1/2 inch gap for the bump stops. Now another question would be, is it more cost effective to get a new lift? I would basically be getting like half of a new lift if I got just the springs and shocks to replace what I got. Plus I would actually know what parts I have in there, as I don't now.
 

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A bit rusty
Ok, I think you have a big sagging spring problem. You look to have 2" bump stops front and rear, but you have almost zero suspension travel from the bump stop to the pad. When the bump stop hits the pad so quickly, it causes a harsh ride over any bumps.

To confirm my theory, get these measurements and report back, these are stock measurements and will tell us where you are sitting right now.
Since you pointed it out. The springs are sagging. Theres only about an 1 1/2 inch gap for the bump stops. Now another question would be, is it more cost effective to get a new lift? I would basically be getting like half of a new lift if I got just the springs and shocks to replace what I got. Plus I would actually know what parts I have in there, as I don't now.
In my opinion, yes. It's much better to know what you have... Plus you would freshen up all those parts. Be sure to use Fluid Film on them a couple times a year to prevent the rust.

Also as mentioned above, use a rust converter and Fluid Film on the rest to clean it all up.

How much weight are you running? Bumpers, skids, winch, etc?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
A bit rusty
Ok, I think you have a big sagging spring problem. You look to have 2" bump stops front and rear, but you have almost zero suspension travel from the bump stop to the pad. When the bump stop hits the pad so quickly, it causes a harsh ride over any bumps.

To confirm my theory, get these measurements and report back, these are stock measurements and will tell us where you are sitting right now.
Since you pointed it out. The springs are sagging. Theres only about an 1 1/2 inch gap for the bump stops. Now another question would be, is it more cost effective to get a new lift? I would basically be getting like half of a new lift if I got just the springs and shocks to replace what I got. Plus I would actually know what parts I have in there, as I don't now.
In my opinion, yes. It's much better to know what you have... Plus you would freshen up all those parts. Be sure to use Fluid Film on them a couple times a year to prevent the rust.

Also as mentioned above, use a rust converter and Fluid Film on the rest to clean it all up.

How much weight are you running? Bumpers, skids, winch, etc?
Front and rear bumpers, the 35" spare, wintch, no skids as of yet.
 

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Front and rear bumpers, the 35" spare, wintch, no skids as of yet.
If you plan for skids, I'd go with a dual rate spring. JKS or Metalcloak would be good choices.
 
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