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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ive had a few people tell me it would be a bad idea to try and re-gear my axles myself, that they need to be honed and adjusted and that I should let a shop do it.

how much of that is true? Is it possible for me to just buy a full rebuild kit, replace everything and call it a day?
 

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Its possible, but very time consuming and you will need to buy some specific tools. I'm toying with the notion but my jeep is not my daily driver and I anticipating a couple of days per axle because I have little patience and would need to walk away frequently. I also need to price the tools.
 

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I would say learning from someone as you do it, with them right there would be great if that is possible.But to drive right in the 1st time could end up costing you big $$$.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I see, I see
but its not so much tuning the two to each-other as it is, getting each perfect.
 

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Yes, but all at the same time. Everything has to be adjusted together, if you shim the axle it could require a depth in pinion change because of its affect on preload, then its disassemble, adjust, retorque, mark and try again. Something I'm not sure I'm willing to do 6 -10 times per axle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Im looking at a ford 8.8 I found thats about too good to turn down, and its geared 4.1 whereas my jeep is currently 3.73. so obviously I would have to re-gear the front to 4.1, the rear to 3.73, or both to something different probably 4.56.

can I, or a shop do just one axle or should you really do them in pairs?
 

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The 8.8 is easy to change the gears. Just ensure to measure the pinion depth and shim it and the carrier correctly.

Also if you purchase the Ford Motorsport gears they typically accept the stock shims without much needed adjustments and they are also pretty quiet.
 

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can I, or a shop do just one axle or should you really do them in pairs?
You can have them do 1 or both. Just figure about $600 parts/labor per axle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I just finished reading the walk through... sounds doable but zero fun

I wonder if it would be easier to find a d44 front with 4.1 already and what its cost would be....

** It will be a while before I get the 8.8 completely prepped and ready
 

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The two stock front Jeep axles with those gears are the Dana 30 from an SE model with 4.10 gearing plus either a TracLoc LSD or an open diff, and the Dana 44 from a TJ Rubicon with 4.11 gears and a low pressure TruLoc air locker. If you find one of those, expect to pay more than $1000 and try to buy the matching air pump to go with it. Realisticly the Rubicon D44 will stand up to 35's and the D30 to 33's, there is not that much strength difference in the Ring&Pinion.

The Ford 8.8' or the D44 rear axle are both good, but I would give the nod to the 8.8" for strength.

Of course, if your original axles are good, you can sell those to offset some of the cost.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
is there a difference between the 4.1 and the 4.11 (besides the obvious .01) if I found a 4.11 for the front would that clash with the 4.1 in the rear to any noticeable or damaging effect?
 

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The Rubicon as it is equipped f/r is 4.10/4.11 Remember the system is part time and should only be used on leese surfaces. The .01 difference will not be an issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
thanks for all the great info guys,
I think what im going to do is this:
Get this 8.8 I found, and built it up so its ready to go on.
once I install it I will sell the stock D35 and use that to either upgrade the front or have it re-geared.
I may have to run without 4wd for a few while i get everything situated, but overall I think its going to be well worth it.
 
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