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Discussion Starter #1
Hey Guys, I'm having an issue with my Rubicon Express Tie rod bar on my JKU. This Bar has never been right since day 1 unfortunately. I bought this in April of last year so it's just shy of a year old. My installer has been in contact with RE and they told him its normal with this bar and to monitor it but also that they would look into it and get back with us. Well you know how that went...The bar is looser than before so I sent this video to RE on Monday and once again NADA.

I posted these videos hopefully they linked up properly.





I guess what I want to know is if there is anything I can do to remedy this thing or am I out the 400 bucks plus install for a paper weight? My Jeep really does have a shimmy unstable feeling to it as you can imagine.

Thanks in advance everyone.

Michael
 

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That's nuts, that is absolutely a failure. The clamp is tightened properly? They need to replace it.
 

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I would want to see what is going on at the tie rod end.
But I would also have already replaced it with a better quality tie rod.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the replies guys.
The clamp is uber tight. The threads of the tie rod end are actually loose in the adjustment nut.

The tie rod ends don't have any up/down movement on them that I can tell.

Here is one more video of me moving it with my hand. Sorry it's a little shaky in the beginning, I'm holding the phone as well.

https://vimeo.com/401208394
 

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Thanks for the replies guys.
The clamp is uber tight. The threads of the tie rod end are actually loose in the adjustment nut.

The tie rod ends don't have any up/down movement on them that I can tell.

Here is one more video of me moving it with my hand. Sorry it's a little shaky in the beginning, I'm holding the phone as well.

https://vimeo.com/401208394
I bet from moving the threads are all toast.

There is many a recent threads on this forum with well recommended tie rods...
I run the Yeti SteerSmart's one on my 13 and I like it although I wished I went aluminum now.

For our 16 will probably end up with a Fusion 4x4 or similar (1.75 aluminum with 2.5ton RARE tie rod ends...)
 

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RE needs to warranty that. You loose that going down the highway you potentially kill everyone in your jeep and anyone you hit. It fails on something like black bear pass and it gets ugly in a hurry. I would not drive it without replacing it.

If RE says that is normal I would make sure that is documented.
 

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Thanks for the replies guys.
The clamp is uber tight. The threads of the tie rod end are actually loose in the adjustment nut.

The tie rod ends don't have any up/down movement on them that I can tell.

Here is one more video of me moving it with my hand. Sorry it's a little shaky in the beginning, I'm holding the phone as well.

https://vimeo.com/401208394
That is a no-go. I wouldn't drive it like that. You could get to the dreaded DW and that violent action could rip the TRE out of the rod and... Yikes. They MUST replace that.

But if you can't get them to help and if you are hard on the Jeep and run trails regularly that require being locked front and rear, go nothing less than the 2.5 ton set ups. Right now the best price is RPM Fab Steering.

https://www.rpmsteering.com/JK-Ultimate-25-Ton-HD-Aluminum-Tie-Rod_p_406.html

If you are a bit more casual, the 1 ton set up is still quite good.

https://www.rpmsteering.com/JK-1-Ton-Heavy-Duty-Aluminum-Tie-Rod_p_30.html
 

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Discussion Starter #9
A DW problem did develop and now my Jeep is parked until I remedy all this unfortunately. RE has been no help so it looks like I have to buy a new set up.
 

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A DW problem did develop and now my Jeep is parked until I remedy all this unfortunately. RE has been no help so it looks like I have to buy a new set up.
Who did you buy it thru? If a vendor or shop I would make them handle it. they should have more pull with RE. RE should be ashamed if they say that is normal. Good companies will stand behind their products.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I bought it through Amazon like a Dummy. I never do that for my business and don't know why I did it for my car.

RE said on the phone its normal to have a little play so nothing documented unfortunately.

Ultimately it doesn't matter at this point. I don't expect RE to do anything for me, besides I wouldn't run the replacement bar if they gave me one. My family was at risk the whole time while running this thing. Lesson learned.
 

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OP- see if Amazon customer service can help you. I bought an odyssey battery from amazon a couple of years ago. It failed within warranty and Amazon gave me the option of a full credit or a replacement. All it took was a 15 minute phone call.
 

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OP- see if Amazon customer service can help you. I bought an odyssey battery from amazon a couple of years ago. It failed within warranty and Amazon gave me the option of a full credit or a replacement. All it took was a 15 minute phone call.
And make sure you leave a review along with that video to warn others about poor cs with re. Verified buyer reviews are the ones i look at when buying from amazon.
 

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I can see the problem. The lock nut should be moved all the way over to the rod end side this will stop the threaded end wobble. The clamp side does not need the lock nut because you have the clamp. Make sure the clamp bolt is aleast grade 8 or 10. Use a breaker bar and go bubba tight, you will not break the bolt.
This is all caused by poor directions included in our parts. I had the same issue with Synergy but called and told them how to rewrite the instructions.
There is nothing wrong with your parts. Make sure your steering wheel is centered before getting medieval with that clamp.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I tried to leave a review recently on amazon about it and they denied it. I believe it was because of the video link. I need to re submit a review on the product.

Wentbig- I don't understand. Are you saying the locknut should be adjusted away from the joint? Then I retighten the calmp?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I'm still uncomfortable running this thing, but I don't want to spend more money right now.
 

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Move lock nut away from clamp, you don't need it the clamp does the work.
Move lock nut away till it seats on the rod joint side. Even if directions tell you different they are wrong. I am right.
This will stop the wiggle in the threads.
 

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Move lock nut away from clamp, you don't need it the clamp does the work.
Move lock nut away till it seats on the rod joint side. Even if directions tell you different they are wrong. I am right.
This will stop the wiggle in the threads.
this is correct. The locknut is currently in the incorrect location, and needs to be moved and tightened against the TRE.

I’d fix it for the time being, but imo I wouldn’t run that long as it could fail now.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Ok I'll try that out. I'm still concerned of it failing now that the threads could be compromised but we'll see.

Thanks everyone.
 
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