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Discussion Starter #1
HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

A week ago on the way home form work at 1:30a my dside, rear wheel cylinder blew. Didn't know until I got work the next day thinking the brake pedal felt weird, checked the fluid level and was shocked to see it nearly empty, had to be towed home.
I have now completed the new shoes, springs and turned drum installment. Adjusted and bleed, although I only bleed the dside. Pedal feels great, ready to go for a test drive, start my rig and the ebrake lite on the dash is on. Ebrake not on - WTF?
Recheck fluid level all is well, pull brake on and off, no joy.
I have:
removed the fuse for the cluster
disconnected the battery
readjusted the brakes
Checked the FSM
Checked my Haines book
consulted with a dude from my wheelin' group
consulted with a dude at the auto parts store
checked the internet
BANGED MY HEAD AGAINST CONCRET
PULLED MY HAIR OUT
Now I'm reaching out to the actual TJ owners

Please can someone help me fix this! I own this TJ and an XJ, right now the XJ won't start and the TJ won't stop - I really need a working car.
Thanks in advance
 

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I had the same thing happen. But my brakes were not releasing correctly. The brake light was constantly on. Put all new hardware in. Done these a million times. Sure as shit it was bad flexible brake lines from the hard line to the pistons. They didn't leak or look bad. But seems any pressure problem will trigger that light. Maybe that helps you.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
when you got the new lines installed and bleed, did the light go off all by its self?

I didn't bleed the system starting with the pside, I just did the dside, since that was where the problem occurred. Tried to bleed pside this am but couldn't get the bleeder value open, off to HF to get correct tool.
 

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To properly bleed the brakes you need to do the passenger side too....

Start at pass rear, then drivers rear, pass front and then finally drivers front in that order, keep an eye on the master cylinder and don't let it run dry.
 

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I am not saying this is what is happening in this case, BUT!! I always do brake parts replacement on an axle. What happens to the D side rear, I also do the P side rear. If I replace a wheel cylinder on the left, I also replace the right. Same with brake shoes, turning drums, replacing springs and hardware, and/or hoses. The passenger side has been on the vehicle the same length of time the drivers side was and just because it didn't blow at the same time, doesn't mean that it is in good enough shape to work well with the brand new D-side one. I won't replace all the fronts just because I did the rears, but L to R, I always do the same to BOTH sides and have never been disappointed.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Currently I do not have a running car, am paying for a rental until I can sort this out. Having said that, the plan is to do both rear brake jobs, have all the parts. BUT I'd like to have a working vehicle, so I can stop throwing away $ on a rental.
 

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The brake light went out by its self after replacing the line. I used the hose into a bottle with fluid in it to bleed the brakes. Worked like a champ. If you let the reservoir get too empty then you will need to bleed them all again.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
This am, I bleed the brakes starting with r pside, r dside, f pside, f dside. I the front pside had the brake pedal go all the way to the floor, obviously air in there.
Was all excited since that HAD to be the problem. Nope start the rig and damn brake light is still on in the dash.
I'm going to do the bleed again, starting her and pressing the pedal, if this doesn't fix it I'd like to know the thoughts of what the next step is?
 

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Don’t know if this will help you, but I had the light come on after a hard stop. Brake fluid was pretty near empty. As I had recently done the front brakes, I replaced everything in back. Could not get that light off. Poured I don’t know how many bottles of fluid through it. Finally replaced all the bleeding screws with self bleeders. I can look up the part numbers if you need them. Rebled, only this time a whole lot of gunk came out the right front side. I don’t know if the self bleeders helped or not, but they certainly made it easier. Light turned off shortly afterwards when I made a hard stop.
 

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After you bled all the brakes do you have a working brake pedal now ?

Maybe the sending unit for the brake light might be bad if your brakes are working normally now.
 

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I think the proportioning valve has gotten "off center". Do a search on this site about how to do the procedure for resetting it. There is a guy from Black Magic Brakes (that will remained unnamed bc I'm sure he is extremely busy) that has posted the information.

Side note and a disclaimer. Safe to drive? Well, it will stop but not as good as it should be. Use common sense and keep the safety of EVERYONE in mind if you do so. Of course your mileage mat vary.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
After you bled all the brakes do you have a working brake pedal now ?

Maybe the sending unit for the brake light might be bad if your brakes are working normally now.
Are you asking me or LovingMaui?
I had a working brake pedal, after the the first bleed and starting the car. I continue to have a working brake pedal, very firm.

proportioning valve has gotten "off center"
Stupid question, what's a proportioning valve and where's it located?

Lovesleddin: what made you look at replacing the lines?
 

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jpenvy, I couldn't figure out the problem since everything checked out, so I went through several jeep blogs looking for an answer. I found a few people in the same scenario. I guess the interior of these flexible brake lines breakdown and cause issues like yours and mine. I noticed my right front caliper was not releasing properly even though it all brand new. So I thought they are cheap enough that it would be good preventative maintenance and "boom" light went out and never had and issue since. It may not fix your issue but maybe it would.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks loveslidden.

I just went out and did the bleed with the engine running. Now b4 engine brake pedal firm almost hard. Turn on engine, with the assist, the pedal firm.
Engine on, r pside, pedal didn't go 1/2 way, but never seemed to get as firm with engine off. Ditto for r dside. However, when I got to f pside the pedal went all the way to the floor making a sound as it hit bottom, few more pumps and it came up 1/2 way, like the others not firm. In fact it felt like I could have kept pumping it.
Back under the car the fluid in the cup is dirty. Interesting since all of the old fluid was removed from the system 3 bleeds ago on the project. Is it possible there is something wrong with that caliper? Yesterday when I did the bleed on it the pedal went all the way to the floor also.

Scratching head.
 

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what's a proportioning valve and where's it located?
The proportioning valve is usually below the master cylinder, kinda looks like a small brass block, tube/ line in, tubes/ lines out. This valve limits pressure to the rear brakes to keep them from locking up to soon.
 
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