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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm sure you folks have seen this before - wear indicator tab broke off, the pad ate itself in no time, took the rotor with it with zero warning - metal scraping on metal was the first symptom of the problem. All right, I see that there may be a multitude of causes for this (though I wonder what could break that tab off, and how fast after this the pad was gone), but the repair is pretty straightforward - except for one thing.

What damn torque wrench are all those people on Youtube are using to get to rear caliper bolts? I couldn't even fit the standard 18mm with a breaker bar in, let alone the torque wrench - but those guys seem to have the tool for the job. There is one video that mentions a specific torque wrench - but that's the tool manufactured by the maker of the video, which doesn't make me comfortable, and I wouldn't give them advertisement here either. Or, SnapOn, which is not gonna get here fast enough even if I bought it right now.

The only other option seems to be removing the top end of the stabilizer bar link, torque the caliper bolts, and put the stabilizer bar link back on - is that the solution I'm looking for, or there's something simpler but not so obvious?

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I'm sure you folks have seen this before - wear indicator tab broke off, the pad ate itself in no time, took the rotor with it with zero warning - metal scraping on metal was the first symptom of the problem. All right, I see that there may be a multitude of causes for this (though I wonder what could break that tab off, and how fast after this the pad was gone), but the repair is pretty straightforward - except for one thing.

What damn torque wrench are all those people on Youtube are using to get to rear caliper bolts? I couldn't even fit the standard 18mm with a breaker bar in, let alone the torque wrench - but those guys seem to have the tool for the job. There is one video that mentions a specific torque wrench - but that's the tool manufactured by the maker of the video, which doesn't make me comfortable, and I wouldn't give them advertisement here either. Or, SnapOn, which is not gonna get here fast enough even if I bought it right now.

The only other option seems to be removing the top end of the stabilizer bar link, torque the caliper bolts, and put the stabilizer bar link back on - is that the solution I'm looking for, or there's something simpler but not so obvious?

View attachment 4528623
Not sure if this is the correct answer, since you didn't post any pictures, however, I think that bolt may need an allen head to remove.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'm assuming you mean the bottom bolt, and yes, you'll need to disconnect the end link from the axle mount to get at it.
Actually, I can't get it between the top bolt and the link either - it is not obvious from this picture, but the standard 18mm 1/4" drive socket with the torque wrench on top of it comes about 20mm too long for that.

The torque wrench will not fit the lower link from the outer side - look at the socket and the extender in the picture, I assume that's how you meant to approach it?

Side note, it was surprising to see how much magnetic dust the ABS sensor accumulated, never seen this on any car I worked on before. A crazy thought, can this be related to one of alleged causes of this failure I saw discussed elsewhere - the onboard computer overreacting, actuating the brakes too often, and eating away the pads?

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If you are talking about the caliper glide pins, then the pads/rotor failed because they are sized and that caused the pads to rapidly wear and eat the rotors. You'll need to reattach the bracket and and twist on them until the heads break off. I used a wrench and hammer. Pick up a new caliper bracket and associated hardware and boots at the parts store. Make sure to grease the glide pins so this doesn't happen again
 

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I am trying to figure out what bolts you are fighting with also. I recently removed both rear axles which required removing brake calipers as well as the brackets and backing plate bolts and had zero issues getting a standard wrench/ ratchet in there to remove the bolts and a standard torque wrench in there to torque on reassembly.
 

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In your picture, you have the socket on the rear sway bar link. I'm not sure why you are looking to remove that. It is not limiting you form replacing anything for the brakes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I am trying to figure out what bolts you are fighting with also. I recently removed both rear axles which required removing brake calipers as well as the brackets and backing plate bolts and had zero issues getting a standard wrench/ ratchet in there to remove the bolts and a standard torque wrench in there to torque on reassembly.
What's the torque wrench you're using? I see this guy using a SnapOn @12:35 without problems, but the Craftsman I have (with Craftsman sockets) are just too big (about 20mm too big) to fit in without taking the link off.

 

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I have an 18mm 6pt box wrench exactly for this job because of the tight clearance. Not easy to round it off and I can hit it with a mallet if needed.
 

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Not removed. Torqued. Not enough space to get a torque wrench, the stabilizer link is in the way.
Ah, my mistake, guess the hint was there, I mean who takes thing apart with a torque wrench 🤣

Any wrench and a fishing/baggage scale and math will do for tight spots...
 

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What's the torque wrench you're using? I see this guy using a SnapOn @12:35 without problems, but the Craftsman I have (with Craftsman sockets) are just too big (about 20mm too big) to fit in without taking the link off.

I have 2, both are Kobalt from Lowe’s. I use the lower range (3/8 drive) one for those bolts with a Kobalt non-impact-type socket which is shallower.
Similar to this one but mine is older version I’m sure.
Kobalt 3/8 Drive
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I have 2, both are Kobalt from Lowe’s. I use the lower range (3/8 drive) one for those bolts with a Kobalt non-impact-type socket which is shallower.
Similar to this one but mine is older version I’m sure.
Kobalt 3/8 Drive
Ah drats.

Thank you, you're my savior. I didn't realize they make 3/8 drive torque wrenches up to 100 lb-ft, always thought that they don't get above 30 or so (have a few of those in the workshop since ages ago, just never saw bigger). Worked like a charm even with the standard 3/8 drive 18mm socket. Bonus, learned of existence of low profile sockets, now I have a spare set in the toolbox, still unsealed :)
 

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Ah drats.

Thank you, you're my savior. I didn't realize they make 3/8 drive torque wrenches up to 100 lb-ft, always thought that they don't get above 30 or so (have a few of those in the workshop since ages ago, just never saw bigger). Worked like a charm even with the standard 3/8 drive 18mm socket. Bonus, learned of existence of low profile sockets, now I have a spare set in the toolbox, still unsealed :)

A decent tool (life time warranty) wreches until it breaks.. Want to use a 1/4" drive on a massive bolt? Feel free to.. There's a tool exchange for that.
 

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Ah drats.

Thank you, you're my savior. I didn't realize they make 3/8 drive torque wrenches up to 100 lb-ft, always thought that they don't get above 30 or so (have a few of those in the workshop since ages ago, just never saw bigger). Worked like a charm even with the standard 3/8 drive 18mm socket. Bonus, learned of existence of low profile sockets, now I have a spare set in the toolbox, still unsealed :)
Where did you get the low profile socket set?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
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